waterpump fan clutch and thermostat now overheating

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So i recently replaced the water pump, fan clutch and thermostat in my mazda b4000 due to a leaking water pump. After bleeding i let it idle for about 20 minutes with no problems at all but once driving around my neighborhood it slowly climbed to the hot whereas this has never happened before. I used an aftermarket thermostat in this case where there was a motorcraft one before which is my first instinct. Secondly i am wondering if the rtv i used on for gaskets could be clogging it up that bad? What do you guys think?
 
Maybe it's due to air in the coolant. If you don't have one, get the Lisle coolant funnel. It makes bleeding the coolant much easier
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Probably air in the coolant. But just because a part is new doesn't mean it's any good. Aftermarket fan clutches often times suck, it might take a few tries to get a good one.

Take it for a drive, pop the hood, and shut off the engine and see if the fan keeps spinning or if it stops within a second or so.
 
Recheck the level after it cools. If it's low fill and drive again. Did you put the stat in the correct direction? A little bit of rtv won' t plug anything up.
 
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Update, after cooling i went back out and checked the coolant level and holy cow about a 1/2 gallon low. Total rookie mistake I just did the water pump on my hyundai and totally forgot about this. After topping off i drove around a bit and now the gauge stays between 45-55% in its given range whereas it used to sit at 25 then 55 then 70 and back to about 40 at random. I'm letting it cool off again then going to check and repeat. Thanks for the quick responses guys.
 
The heater can't work when the coolant is not full. Heater not working is often the first symptom it isn't full.
 
Originally Posted by HyundaiAbuser
On the flip side i have lost heat in the truck so i am going to flush the heater core.


Air bubble.
 
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