Under the valve cover of a $1900 BMW N54. Want your opinions

[D4700]

I've just bought this 2009 BMW 535xi Wagon with 158k miles for cheap (needed a valve cover, brakes, and two wheel speed sensors - $250 and an afternoon, it now runs great). However, I am a bit concerned about the condition of the top end. Looks like some thick varnish. Should I be concerned about the turbos and timing components? No sludge, from what I can see by peering through the cam trays. If I decide to keep this, I'll be preoccupied with all the accessories failing so an engine problem is the last thing I need!

 

[michaelluscher]

Congrats
Seems you got yourself a deal
I second the M1 0w40, some slightly more frequent oil changes would probably be nice

Run the VIN for recalls, and yes I would upgrade the AAA membership to at least Plus, preferably Premier

Correct me if I'm wrong, but this is the era BMW of the biodegradable cooling system?
Maybe keep that on the back burner

Motor on

 

[meep]

Drive and enjoy. No issues based on the pictures. Yes to synthetic oil.

 

[Exhaustgases]

With everyone always so concerned about a little color under a valve cover, maybe its time to just scrap it.
Yeah sarcasm.

 

[raaizin]

My bar is low considering I paid $1900 for a somewhat nice car that I was able to drive an hour home, so I'm elated to say that it hasn't used a drop of oil. I'm going to be driving it 2000 miles back to college in a few weeks, I suppose that will be the real test. The last four times I've made the trip in various sketchy BMWs I haven't had any issues. My luck must be running thin... Might be time to upgrade my AAA membership!

I have a couple jugs of M1 0w40 on the shelf since I've used it in all my other cars with great success. I'm glad to hear that it cleans well.

Condition of the trans fluid, diff oil, and t-case fluid are unknown so I will be changing them out shortly. Any recommendations on transfer case fluid? This is my first XDrive. Thinking of using Valvoline Transfer Case Fluid - Its viscosity seems to match the OE fluid by Rein. Surely they're similar

I would be concerned with the X-drive unit as the gear which engages the X-drive is made of some type of nylon and fails over time. Ours failed at 43k miles. There are some cheap fixes if you search.

What else causes the triad of lights besides stripped gear??

Well I bought a new to me 05 x3. The seller sold it to me with the triad of lights on. I had already done my research so I was happy to order an improved gear and be ready for the repair to the actuator. To my dismay the actuator motor gear that I removed has no visual damage. Furthermore when I...

www.bimmerfest.com

 

[D4700]

Decided to check back on this thread, thanks so much for all of your great responses. Here's an update for anyone who cares.

She made it to Arizona! 30 hours and 2,000 miles was not a problem for this thing. And, best of all - It didn't, and still hasn't, used a drop of oil, even with sustained 80+ MPH on the trip and tons of hard city driving in 100F+ these past few weeks. Safe to say that my concerns about the engine have been quelled.

I found out that the t-case was replaced about 30k miles ago, so I'm not very worried about the XDrive system. I also flashed XDelete to disable the actuator entirely, so hopefully that helps things. @raaizin

I would say that the era before this (90s, early 2000s) were much more notorious for cooling system issues. The main issue with these is the electric water pump, which tends to go out around 100k on the turbo models depending on use, and 100-150k+ on the NA models. It's a pain to replace, but it tends to give warning signs in the form of codes before it finally gives up. On my 2011 328i, the factory original water pump made it to 205k before it started to throw codes. It still did the job fine, but I replaced it preemptively. @michaelluscher

Here's a picture for those asking. The paint was a touch hazed when I bought it, but a quick pass with the rotary was enough to clean it up in an hour. It's certainly no show car but it shined up nicely!

 

[Touring5]

Decided to check back on this thread, thanks so much for all of your great responses. Here's an update for anyone who cares.

She made it to Arizona! 30 hours and 2,000 miles was not a problem for this thing. And, best of all - It didn't, and still hasn't, used a drop of oil, even with sustained 80+ MPH on the trip and tons of hard city driving in 100F+ these past few weeks. Safe to say that my concerns about the engine have been quelled.

I found out that the t-case was replaced about 30k miles ago, so I'm not very worried about the XDrive system. I also flashed XDelete to disable the actuator entirely, so hopefully that helps things. @raaizin

I would say that the era before this (90s, early 2000s) were much more notorious for cooling system issues. The main issue with these is the electric water pump, which tends to go out around 100k on the turbo models depending on use, and 100-150k+ on the NA models. It's a pain to replace, but it tends to give warning signs in the form of codes before it finally gives up. On my 2011 328i, the factory original water pump made it to 205k before it started to throw codes. It still did the job fine, but I replaced it preemptively. @michaelluscher

Here's a picture for those asking. The paint was a touch hazed when I bought it, but a quick pass with the rotary was enough to clean it up in an hour. It's certainly no show car but it shined up nicely!

Yes, I believe the cooling system problem were lessened a bit from the previous E39 cars like mine. BTW the temp guages on the E39's were programmed/calibrated to indicate right in the middle (12 o'clock) over a pretty wide spread number of degrees. This can be modified to make it more responsive & better for monitoring when the temp begins getting out of hand.

The reddish varnish is common. Mine looked similar if not worse when I replaced vanos seals when the car was a similar age (12+ years ago).

 

[raaizin]

Decided to check back on this thread, thanks so much for all of your great responses. Here's an update for anyone who cares.

She made it to Arizona! 30 hours and 2,000 miles was not a problem for this thing. And, best of all - It didn't, and still hasn't, used a drop of oil, even with sustained 80+ MPH on the trip and tons of hard city driving in 100F+ these past few weeks. Safe to say that my concerns about the engine have been quelled.

I found out that the t-case was replaced about 30k miles ago, so I'm not very worried about the XDrive system. I also flashed XDelete to disable the actuator entirely, so hopefully that helps things. @raaizin

I would say that the era before this (90s, early 2000s) were much more notorious for cooling system issues. The main issue with these is the electric water pump, which tends to go out around 100k on the turbo models depending on use, and 100-150k+ on the NA models. It's a pain to replace, but it tends to give warning signs in the form of codes before it finally gives up. On my 2011 328i, the factory original water pump made it to 205k before it started to throw codes. It still did the job fine, but I replaced it preemptively. @michaelluscher

Here's a picture for those asking. The paint was a touch hazed when I bought it, but a quick pass with the rotary was enough to clean it up in an hour. It's certainly no show car but it shined up nicely!

D4700

It looks great Good luck with it. X-drive replaced is good, didnt know you can code it out so you shouldnt have issues there. If you can DIY which sounds like you can you should be good. I will say I miss the inline 6, that engine was so smooth. Do you have the sport seats with lumbar support, if so they are some of the best seats I ever had.