Two Questions about Lucas Oil Stabilizer

Messages
2
Location
Alabama
Thread starter
1. If I have low oil pressure at idle (low as in "check gauges" light comes on) but get about 35-40 psi at around 2000 rpm, would adding a quart of lucas to my next oil change help increase oil pressure at idle? 2. If I add lucas once, do I need to keep adding it every oil change? Is it something like when you start using it, you can never go back? I purchased a 2000 Jeep Cherokee with the 4.0L in December. Only 109,000 miles. No ticking, clattering, or knocking. Past owner blew the head gasket and coolant leaked into the oil, wearing away some of the bearings. I asked a mechanic if I should up from 10w-30 to 10w-40, and he said 10w-30 with a quart of lucas would be a better option. I already changed the oil pressure sending unit, I have seafoam in the crankcase to help get sludge out of the oil pump, and the mechanical pressure test confirmed the gauge is reading correctly. If the lucas doesn't work, I plan on installing a Melling High Volume oil pump, which I'm told worked wonders in similar situations (yes, i know volume does not equal pressure, and it may lead to other problems down the road, but 90% of the people who install them say they solve the oil pressure problem. Basically my back is to the wall right now- I can't even sit at a red light for 3 seconds without having to rev the engine to 1000 rpm's or so, and it only gets worse with the upcoming summer heat (I'll be in Montgomery this summer)). If anyone has any experience with these oil pumps, that advice would be greatly appreciated too.
 
Messages
3,398
Location
Midwest, Illinois
X2 on new mechanic. No Lucas. Never. Period. 15w40 in that engine and don't look back. I doubt it gets cold enough in Alabama to require a 5w40, but if below 20 degrees, that would be option number 2.
 
Last edited:
Messages
14,974
Location
Canada
In Alabama, 20W-50 would not be out of place in that engine for the summer. Stick a can of 'Restore' in it to see if it helps.
 
Messages
1,609
Location
Ocala, Florida
Heck I wouldn't be afraid to put some 20W50 in an old 4.0! Thinking Valvoline VR1. The Seafoam in your oil now is thinning its viscosity extremely bad so that is a lot of your problem... No need for Lucas, save your money and just use a good, thick oil.
 
Messages
2,213
Location
Lyndhurst NJ
I agree, thicker oil to start. Lucas has raised oil pressure for me a few times in certain cars, but its usually only temporary as it thins out. We had a mini with 13 psi at idle, spec was 11 so it would flutter. Lucas brought it back to 22-25, but he got the light on again about 2500 miles later.
 
Messages
42,589
Location
Ontario, Canada
As others have noted: - Say no to Lucas, it's super heavy Group I brightstock garbage with no additives other than a tackifier to make it "cling". Great for chainsaw bar oil, useless in an engine and may actually cause aeration. - The Seafoam (stoddard solvent) is thinning your oil, which is the opposite of what you want to be doing in limping this engine along - I'd run 15w-40 or 20w-50 as stated. Keep in mind, none of this FIXES the problem. Neither will an HV oil pump. If your bearings our worn out of spec, you need a bottom-end overhaul. The best you can hope to do is limp it along until you can afford to do so.
 
Messages
1,163
Location
sonoma
No to Licass x5, you mechanic is not giving you sound advice. Very limited times to use Lucas, and usually going up in weight is the better option. First, verify the gauge is correct and do a compresion test. Tune up idle speed and avoid idling at all cost. Your low oil pressure light in not coming on? Is it burning oil?
 
Messages
77
Location
Minnesota
Originally Posted by Chris142
Pull the pan and roll in new bearings.
That was my thought, as long as you mentioned changing the oil pump as an option. If you're pulling the pan anyway, why not roll in a set of bearings while you're in there?
 
Messages
3,235
Location
Phoenix, Arizona - USA
sky - Want to be truly disappointed? Click the 'YouTube' link in the bottom right and read the comments on that video. SOOOO many people rabidly jumping to the defense of Lucas in the comments. I guess there's that percentage of the population that you can never convince..
 
Messages
2
Location
Alabama
Thread starter
Thanks for all the advice! I already purchased valvoline 10w-40 synthetic blend, a 5 qt jug and a 1 qt bottle. Since some are saying to up it to even 20w-50, could I put in the 5 qt jug of 10w-40 and one quart of a 20w-50? It probably won't even make a difference but whatever. Does it matter whether the 20w-50 is conventional or synthetic? I didn't have much selection at my auto parts store so I don't know what they'd have. I can then save the one quart of 10w-40 and keep it in the trunk for emergencies, fill ups, etc. Also, as you can tell I'm quite new to working on cars, so if I get the bearings replaced, I would most likely have the mechanic do it for me. Is there a time/price estimate for a job like this? Thanks in advance!
 
Messages
34,418
Location
NY
If you want something good to "thicken" the oil up check out Schaffer's #132. At least you'll be pouring something decent into the sump, that might actually help a bit. It had a pretty good following here years ago.
 
Messages
1,654
Location
Prospect, KY
Synthetic or conventional oil both will work fine. Skip the Lucas. Return it. Definitely go heavier 20W50 if possible. Engine will do fine with it in your region. Hopefully the tornadoes don't break out tonight down there. I used to live in Birmingham and tornado season was interesting. Amazing how everyone went on like nothing was going on during a tornado siren and how quick cleanup of downed tress would be. Next morning couldn't tell anything happened. Here it would take a week or 2 to get that mess cleaned up. It snowed an inch when I lived there though and city was closed down for a day.
 
Messages
1,335
Location
South Carolina
Originally Posted by markhoff1022
Thanks for all the advice! I already purchased valvoline 10w-40 synthetic blend, a 5 qt jug and a 1 qt bottle. Since some are saying to up it to even 20w-50, could I put in the 5 qt jug of 10w-40 and one quart of a 20w-50? It probably won't even make a difference but whatever. Does it matter whether the 20w-50 is conventional or synthetic? I didn't have much selection at my auto parts store so I don't know what they'd have. I can then save the one quart of 10w-40 and keep it in the trunk for emergencies, fill ups, etc. Also, as you can tell I'm quite new to working on cars, so if I get the bearings replaced, I would most likely have the mechanic do it for me. Is there a time/price estimate for a job like this? Thanks in advance!
Use the Valvoline 10w-40. Check your oil pressure, and observe the trend. If it still appears to be low, go with 20w-50 on the next oil change. I don't like running a thicker oil than necessary. I can't comment on the cost for the mechanic to change the bearings as I've done all of my own work for the last 15 years. I also agree with everyone else. Avoid Lucas Oil Stabilizer.
 
Messages
608
Location
Jupiter, FL
OP have you verified your oil pressure with an actual gauge? The cluster is not accurate. My ,97 XJ reads 10psi but actually is 25psi, spec iirc is 13+ warm idle
 
Last edited:
Top