Trailer bearings

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When you change the roller part of the bearing, shouldn't you automatically replace the race too? They usually come as a set, right? I presume matched...

While poking around with my trailers this weekend I realized that the p/n's for the bearings (as listed in the owners manual) had a number for the race and a number for the rollers, and it didn't make sense to me that they would be stocked separately.

Also, is Timkin still the go-to for bearings, or are the off-shore bearing makers catching up? Reading reviews on Amazon would have it both ways.
 
Yes replace the bearings and races as a set. Sometimes rotors will come with new races already installed. That is why they sell bearings and races seperatly. I still prefer to use matched bearings andcraces.

AfaIK Timkin is still the ones to use. Although Nachi, Koyo and National are also good. Watch out for Chinese National bearings.
 
Yes you always replace cup and cone together but they do NOT always come as a set.

Depending on the bearing #, there are several combinations of cup/cone depending on the application which is why some manufacturers box them separately. A boat trailer is NOT the only things these bearings are used for
 
I was wondering if they did matching to the races or not--I'd think they'd have the machining down to a science now, but who knows.

Timkin it is then. Want to get a set to hold onto, just in case, along with a stack of seals.

My HF trailer has been using whatever HF bearings has, and they do not hold up it seems. Or they do but they just have to be replaced often--I don't look as often as I should, but whenever I do (every 2-3 years) they have lost one or more, due to rust. I'm going to buy another cheapo set for it as it only goes maybe 200 miles per year, it's just a knockabout trailer.
 
I was wondering if they did matching to the races or not--I'd think they'd have the machining down to a science now, but who knows.

They are matched but different combinations with different geometries ( and lube requirements) based on various applications.
 
They are matched but different combinations with different geometries ( and lube requirements) based on various applications.
Ah, did not think of that--I was thinking the angles would be fixed. But I guess that makes sense, maybe some application has a fraction of a degree different (or even a bevel for all I know), dependent on heat, lube, speed, and probably something else I don't know about.
 
If you replace the race, or get a new hub/rotor with races already Installed, be sure to tighten the hub nut to about 70-80lbs. Tighten to this value to make sure the races are fully seated , then loosen and adjust the preload as you spin the hub. If the races are not fully seated, they will seat with lateral loads, and then your bearing will be set way too loose.
 
This may or may not be appurtenant to the post but use new seals and before assemble check the sealing surface on the axle and if needed get a shaft saver for the sealing surface.
 
When you change the roller part of the bearing, shouldn't you automatically replace the race too? They usually come as a set, right? I presume matched...

While poking around with my trailers this weekend I realized that the p/n's for the bearings (as listed in the owners manual) had a number for the race and a number for the rollers, and it didn't make sense to me that they would be stocked separately.

Also, is Timkin still the go-to for bearings, or are the off-shore bearing makers catching up? Reading reviews on Amazon would have it both ways.
Bearings and races come together in the same box.
 
Taper roller bearings do not have to be matched to the outer ring.

That's not entirely accurate ( but looking back I didn't make it clear myself either)

From the dimensional taper perspective, they are "matched' presuming the bearing is made to ABMA standards (many are not and opt for their own geometry)

Then even though a dimensional fit, the crown angles and contact profiles along with internal tolerances, hardness and finish may be incompatible.( very common with cups/cones from different manufacturers)

Then there is the ideal taper length fit. ( determines loading and lubrication in some cases)

Then there are of course precision matched sets but that's not applicable to a trailer bearing.

Its not just a "grab 2 and go" situation- they may look and even physically fit but still be incompatible.
 
NAPA was closed when I got around to it on Saturday afternoon. AAP and Autozone didn't show anything in stock. Will just mailorder the parts and keep on a shelf--it's what I should have done in the first place.
 
No way to drift out the races? I know some people reuse the old races, not sure if that is "best" but if they aren't too badly beat up they should work (for a while).
 
No way to drift out the races? I know some people reuse the old races, not sure if that is "best" but if they aren't too badly beat up they should work (for a while).

on my boat trailer I always leave them be and just replace as needed. That’s if there’s no rust or visible scrapes ect. Boat bearings don’t really Last all that long if you use it a lot Anyway.
 
No way to drift out the races? I know some people reuse the old races, not sure if that is "best" but if they aren't too badly beat up they should work (for a while).
No, it is not best to reuse old races on a new bearing. To do it right you replace the race with a new bearing.Use a brass drift and knock them out and reinstall, it's very easy to do .
 
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