tire wear from -0.5 degree of camber

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A friend of mines got his car lowered. Rear camber spec is around -1.1. He went on the rack with -3 or -4 camber and a lot of toe. This is on Infiniti M35x sedan. Couldn't get toe in spec with that amount of camber. He got a rear camber kit to help and it did some. It looks like he needs a toe bolt kit but none in stock. -2.2 degrees they can zero out rear camber. If they bring camber to within spec of -1.1 toe would be 1.25ish off. Guy didn't understand too much so i was on the phone with the shop, those were the options. I know that TOE kills tires way more then camber, I told them to go for zero rear toe and leave at whatever rear camber it's going to be as long as it doesn't rub. His biggest worry would be how much additional tire wear is he going to get having an additional degree of negative camber but roughly zero toe of whatever the spec ( i think it's close to 0.10 or less). I dont have an answer to that or personal experience. I want to say it will be barely noticeable having an extra degree of negative camber because i know so BMW run -3 rear camber for handling. Thoughts on this? So end result would be 0-0.10 toe-in all around with front camber at -1 degree and rear to be around -2.2 degree.
 
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Number One Uh ... don't lower the car like a teen gangsta. Does he have stretched tires on wides too ? I will say I am surprised they couldn't get toe correct. There is a lot of unused threads on those tierod ends
 
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Oof how did they lower the car? At some point you lower it beyond any ability to get the alignment back in spec even with all the additional aftermarket camber/toe bolts/kit.
 
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Originally Posted by ARCOgraphite
Number One Uh ... don't lower the car like a teen gangsta. Does he have stretched tires on wides too ? I will say I am surprised they couldn't get toe correct. There is a lot of unused threads on those tierod ends
You don't know how much he lowered his car...I have lowered several, and often just an inch or two will require additional suspension mods to bring it in spec. Also, he said this is the rear...so probably not ANY threads on a tie-rod...as it is most likely fixed. I think the OP made the best decision. Several of my smaller Euro cars have a ton of rear camber, and just a slight amount of toe to keep it stable. I would do the same on his setup. He might see a little faster wear on the rears...just keep them rotated.
 
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