Stand alone trailer wiring?

[KawasakiGuy]

Anyone know of any stand alone trailer lighting options for vehicles that does not require cutting into the cars electrical system?

I tried installing a hitch and wiring into my car and ran into a plethora of electrical problems. When I spoke with my dealer they informed me that my car uses a CAN BUS Data System that can cause thousands of dollars of electrical damage when splicing into it's electrical system. Long story short, the dealer said don't do it.

So I removed the wiring and reset my Total Integrated Power Module and everything started to work as it should.

So I'm looking for a stand alone unit that I can feed power off the battery, but toggle from within. I'm not very electrically inclined, so go slow lol Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks!

 

[eljefino]

So what's the car? Someone will sooner or later make a module for it.

I understand the reasoning between multiplexing, data busses, etc. But some things like headlights and brake lights should have a dedicated wire going to a dedicated switch without computers that need rebooting. Just look at the toyota accelleration fiasco.

 

[KawasakiGuy]

Originally Posted By: eljefino
So what's the car? Someone will sooner or later make a module for it.

I understand the reasoning between multiplexing, data busses, etc. But some things like headlights and brake lights should have a dedicated wire going to a dedicated switch without computers that need rebooting. Just look at the toyota accelleration fiasco.

It's an 2006 Chrysler PT Cruiser. Dealer and other PT Cruiser forum goers suggest that any load on the system will eventually fry the TIPM. $800 for the TIPM plus installation, not something I want to risk especially after it showed symptoms when I installed the wiring harness.

 

[Donald]

You can get adapters that fit between your vehicle's connectors so no actual cutting/splicing. Your dealer is blowing smoke up your a$$ when he mentions CAN. Thats an option for the OBDII and has nothing to do with the vehicles lights. The main problem you run into is separate turn signal and brake light on the car but not on the trailer. At least not on a 4 or 5 flat wire. But I am sure they make adapters for that. Its a simple diode for each of the 3 wires (L & R and brake) that allow it to connect to the trailer with combined lights.

A diode is a one way valve for electricity.

Another option is to add some lights to your trailer and use a 7 pin connector. A 7 pin connector has a pin for L, for R and for brake, and 4 others.

 

[earlyre]

i know there used to be "T" Harnesses, but it's been years since i've had to wire a trailer plug...

the one dad had on the Aerostar i really learned to drive in, was from our local UHAUL, and was designed to plug into the factory wire harness. @ some point towards the back, there's a place where the bit going to the tail lights plugs into the main loom, with this unit, you just unplug the factory connection, and plug this in between.

so my best suggestion would be to check with your local UHAUL, or some type of trailer specialist shop.

 

[KawasakiGuy]

Originally Posted By: earlyre
i know there used to be "T" Harnesses, but it's been years since i've had to wire a trailer plug...

the one dad had on the Aerostar i really learned to drive in, was from our local UHAUL, and was designed to plug into the factory wire harness. @ some point towards the back, there's a place where the bit going to the tail lights plugs into the main loom, with this unit, you just unplug the factory connection, and plug this in between.


This is what I did exactly. I bought a Curt Hitch and Harness. There was no splicing of wires. The harness plugs directly into the tail lights and out to the trailer. Worked great for a few hundred miles then weird things began to happen lol

 

[WishIhadatruck]

You need something along the lines of one of these.

http://www.draw-tite.com/content/products.aspx?lvl=2&parentid=1500&catID=1535&part=0

It will get the signal from the wiring harness you already bought but draw the current directly from your batter and draw a minimal amount form your light circuits. They make lots of models so you might want to investigate the different ones and see what might work best for your car but one of them should work. I use one on my wagon because otherwise it wouldn't provide a good bright trailer light as my tail and brake light circuits are not heavy duty enough to work on their own.

Edit:

After doing some more digging, their equipment guide recommends this kit for your car.

http://www.draw-tite.com/content/products.aspx?lvl=3&parentid=0&catID=1505&part=118462

 

[exranger06]

Originally Posted By: Donald

Another option is to add some lights to your trailer and use a 7 pin connector. A 7 pin connector has a pin for L, for R and for brake, and 4 others.

No, a 7 pin connector uses the exact same 4 wires as a 4-flat connector. It just has 3 additional wires - one is constant +12V, one is for electric trailer brakes, and one is for back-up lights (or used for the solenoid on surge brakes). It does not have separate wires for turn signals and brake lights.