sprinter oil change - not low SAP

Messages
13
Location
country of Georgia
Thread starter
Hi guys, i have a sprinter 310, 2.2 cdi, year 2009, i decided to change an oil, previous owner used 10w40 and decided to continue using that one, i filled WAVE POWER SL 10W-40, then i read that this oil is not suitable for vehicles with DPF and now i dont know what to do, should i change it or leave it, if change what do you recommend?
 
Messages
121
Location
DFW, TX
Mercedes has specs for different oils: examples are 228.3, 229.3, 229.5, 229.51 etc. The link 2004tdigls sent you for the WavePower shows it meets 229.1. Most euro oil bottle labels will show what Mercedes spec the oil meets. Try this: https://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/d/d/en/Spec_223_2.pdf This may not be the right table, but something like this is what you need to consult. Hopefully you can find your engine in all this. You may need to find a version of this table dated 7-8 years ago. There is no guarantee an engine similar to yours produced today takes the same oil as a 2009 version.
 
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10,320
Location
Colorado Springs
Originally Posted by angryorc
Hi guys, i have a sprinter 310, 2.2 cdi, year 2009, i decided to change an oil, previous owner used 10w40 and decided to continue using that one, i filled WAVE POWER SL 10W-40, then i read that this oil is not suitable for vehicles with DPF and now i dont know what to do, should i change it or leave it, if change what do you recommend?
Anything MB229.51 or 229.52. By the way, which Georgia? Georgia country or Georgia state? Give us more accurate location and maybe we can help with specific oils.
 
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Messages
15,091
Location
Upper Midwest
Everyone makes this type of oil choice so difficult when in reality it is very simple. Use any oil that carries the approval required by your owner's manual, make sure it has actual approval and is not just "recommended for" that approval. Ignore grade since all oils that meet the required approval will have a similar HTHS, and there in Georgia the slight differences in winter ratings will have no meaning.
 
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15,091
Location
Upper Midwest
Why would you have to use the same grade? The requirement is the approval, not the grade. I would use the proper approval and forget about what is in there now. Engines do not get "used to" anything. Pick the least expensive oil you can buy that has the actual approval required for your engine. That's the best one. If that Rimula is easily available for you and inexpensive then use that. If it's not then find something else. Please listen to the advice being given to you here rather than making up new concerns or imaginary ones.
 
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15,579
Location
In the shop
Originally Posted by kschachn
Angry Orc said he's from the country of Georgia, even though his location link takes you to the US state.
popcorn Yup, more to this story
 
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3,526
Location
Slovenia EU
Originally Posted by kschachn
Angry Orc said he's from the country of Georgia, even though his location link takes you to the US state.
Did not know that you can click on a location and google maps show your aprox location smile Since when do we have that feature?
 
Messages
13
Location
country of Georgia
Thread starter
mb recommendation on this one is 5w30, but 10w40 is thick oil and i was told that using thinner oil like 5w30 after thick oil is not a good idea, it will eat up that oil because engine is already formed to work on thick oil
 
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2,637
Location
San Rafael, CA
Originally Posted by angryorc
mb recommendation on this one is 5w30, but 10w40 is thick oil and i was told that using thinner oil like 5w30 after thick oil is not a good idea, it will eat up that oil because engine is already formed to work on thick oil
That's not how it works. The engine doesn't form to any oil.
 
Messages
15,091
Location
Upper Midwest
Originally Posted by angryorc
mb recommendation on this one is 5w30, but 10w40 is thick oil and i was told that using thinner oil like 5w30 after thick oil is not a good idea, it will eat up that oil because engine is already formed to work on thick oil
Again because of the way the Mercedes Benz approvals work the grade designations are virtually meaningless. They all must meet a minimum HTHS and that defines the "thickness" of the oil. In your example above, if both oils have actual approval then one is not "thin" and one is not "thick". Furthermore the winter rating does not define the thickness if that's what you're also reading into it. And again, as dogememe states above, the engine does not "form" to an oil. You'd serve yourself better if you learn the truth about these things rather than clinging to silly notions you may have read or heard from individuals that have no clue what they are taking about.
 
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