SN+ use when not spec'd by Hyundai

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I'm probably unnecessarily torturing myself. I originally started considering different oils in the fall to address timing chain rattle at startup but my obsession has since (probably) gotten excessive, while the rattle has remained unchanged. I really like using the Motul 8100 line of oils. I use 3 different varieties right now in various cars maintain, it's readily available and as far as I'm concerned a descent price. The car in question is a 2013 Hyundai Santa fe with the 3.3L Lambda II engine, 10.4:1 compression naturally aspirated. I use regular 87 octane from major suppliers only. My current fill is Motul 8100 XCESS 5w-40. I'm happy with the specs of the oil although going by VOA's I've found, Motul doesn't utilize any Molybdenum in this oil, and CA is high at 2350. I'm considering going back to their xclean efe 5w-30, just waiting on the VOA to return, however I still expect the calcium to be in the mid 1000's or better. I have looked into what the current model year santa fe with the 3.3L specs from Hyundai and they still only call for an API SN oil. I understand most LSPI events occur in the small displacement boosted engines. Obviously they're not concerned with this engine having LSPI events. Should I be?
 
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Don't overthink this. In a few years, you'll be hard pressed to buy an oil that's not SN+ rated. <span style="font-style: italic">This is simply the current API spec</span>. A few years ago, you were probably putting SN oil in it when it only needs SM.
 
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LSPI is a problem almost exclusive to tgdi's. You have a naturally aspirated, PI engine in that Hyundai I believe? Although some 2013's did get a non turbo, GDI version of the Lambda 2.
 
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Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
LSPI is a problem almost exclusive to tgdi's. You have a naturally aspirated, PI engine in that Hyundai I believe? Although some 2013's did get a non turbo, GDI version of the Lambda 2.
No, 2013 was the first year for the DI engine.
 
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Originally Posted by STIcandy
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
LSPI is a problem almost exclusive to tgdi's. You have a naturally aspirated, PI engine in that Hyundai I believe? Although some 2013's did get a non turbo, GDI version of the Lambda 2.
No, 2013 was the first year for the DI engine.
Correct, my bad.. the pi L2 was a 3.5L, which the '13 SF did not get. Lspi should still not be a concern for you..use your Google machine and read up on just what LSPI is and you'll better understand why you should stop worrying
 
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Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
Originally Posted by STIcandy
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
LSPI is a problem almost exclusive to tgdi's. You have a naturally aspirated, PI engine in that Hyundai I believe? Although some 2013's did get a non turbo, GDI version of the Lambda 2.
No, 2013 was the first year for the DI engine.
Correct, my bad.. the pi L2 was a 3.5L, which the '13 SF did not get. Lspi should still not be a concern for you..use your Google machine and read up on just what LSPI is and you'll better understand why you should stop worrying
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
I have read extensively on LSPI and experienced the results of it as a tech. I also know there have been many a debate about weather of not it could be an issue in an NA engine, to which it had been argued either way. Regardless I've never seen it happen in an NA application, much less a V6. Just looked up the oil spec for the kia stinger gt which is essentially my engine turbocharged. Kia still says nothing about SN+. They spec ACEA A5 with notes that even an SM GF4 is acceptable. So I've decided I needn't worry about the CA of my engine oil. I'll keep on trucking with what I've got and support it with UOA 's. Thanks guys!
 
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Originally Posted by STIcandy
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
Originally Posted by STIcandy
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
LSPI is a problem almost exclusive to tgdi's. You have a naturally aspirated, PI engine in that Hyundai I believe? Although some 2013's did get a non turbo, GDI version of the Lambda 2.
No, 2013 was the first year for the DI engine.
Correct, my bad.. the pi L2 was a 3.5L, which the '13 SF did not get. Lspi should still not be a concern for you..use your Google machine and read up on just what LSPI is and you'll better understand why you should stop worrying
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
I have read extensively on LSPI and experienced the results of it as a tech. I also know there have been many a debate about weather of not it could be an issue in an NA engine, to which it had been argued either way. Regardless I've never seen it happen in an NA application, much less a V6. Just looked up the oil spec for the kia stinger gt which is essentially my engine turbocharged. Kia still says nothing about SN+. They spec ACEA A5 with notes that even an SM GF4 is acceptable. So I've decided I needn't worry about the CA of my engine oil. I'll keep on trucking with what I've got and support it with UOA 's. Thanks guys!
Sorry, it wasn't my intention to question your knowledge on the topic (guess I was confused why you were raising the concern to begin with since you have a NA engine but anywho..). In any event I'm glad you've reached some consensus on the topic and are able to put to bed your concerns. 👍
 
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Use a current SN Plus oil that's Dexos certified. 5W20/30 would be best served. Thinner in winters / Thicker in spring, summer and fall. Best to also use Premium Top-tier gas. Lastly, best to stick with OEM Hyundai oil filters.
 
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Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Use a current SN Plus oil that's Dexos certified. 5W20/30 would be best served. Thinner in winters / Thicker in spring, summer and fall. Best to also use Premium Top-tier gas. Lastly, best to stick with OEM Hyundai oil filters.
Why SN+ if LSPI isn't an issue? I recently tried 2 tanks of premium fuel to the tune of an additional $20 each, with absolutely zero improvements in L/100kms. I can't justify the cost if it gets me no returns. I do however buy OEM filters.
 
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Originally Posted by STIcandy
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Use a current SN Plus oil that's Dexos certified. 5W20/30 would be best served. Thinner in winters / Thicker in spring, summer and fall. Best to also use Premium Top-tier gas. Lastly, best to stick with OEM Hyundai oil filters.
Why SN+ if LSPI isn't an issue? I recently tried 2 tanks of premium fuel to the tune of an additional $20 each, with absolutely zero improvements in L/100kms. I can't justify the cost if it gets me no returns. I do however buy OEM filters.
Lots of studies say Calcium not a friend of these GDI / TGDI engines. Magnesium levels have been raised also, to combat the effects. I would love to use Castrol Euro 0w40 in my two Korean models. But in no way will either engine see it. I wont even pick up a jug at Walmart, without it saying Dexos 1 and Gen 2. So yes, I am overly picky about my vehicle care. That's because I've always been first and last owner of them. If you recently bought that vehicle and plan on selling it / trading it in......etc.... before it reaches it's last years, then have no worries and use whatever oil and filter you desire.
 
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Whitby Ontario Canada
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Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Originally Posted by STIcandy
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Use a current SN Plus oil that's Dexos certified. 5W20/30 would be best served. Thinner in winters / Thicker in spring, summer and fall. Best to also use Premium Top-tier gas. Lastly, best to stick with OEM Hyundai oil filters.
Why SN+ if LSPI isn't an issue? I recently tried 2 tanks of premium fuel to the tune of an additional $20 each, with absolutely zero improvements in L/100kms. I can't justify the cost if it gets me no returns. I do however buy OEM filters.
Lots of studies say Calcium not a friend of these GDI / TGDI engines. Magnesium levels have been raised also, to combat the effects. I would love to use Castrol Euro 0w40 in my two Korean models. But in no way will either engine see it. I wont even pick up a jug at Walmart, without it saying Dexos 1 and Gen 2. So yes, I am overly picky about my vehicle care. That's because I've always been first and last owner of them. If you recently bought that vehicle and plan on selling it / trading it in......etc.... before it reaches it's last years, then have no worries and use whatever oil and filter you desire.
Fair enough you make some valid points. I've owned the vehicle since July 2013 and plan to drive it into the ground. Your points have been noted.
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
D1G2 already addresses lspi and timing chain wear, so sn+ is redundant.
Funny enough, I was under the impression that all SN+ bear the D1G2 designation as well, however it appears that's not the case. I looked at a bottle of PP euro 5w-40 last night and it had the SN+ designation but not D1G2.
 
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Originally Posted by STIcandy
Funny enough, I was under the impression that all SN+ bear the D1G2 designation as well, however it appears that's not the case. I looked at a bottle of PP euro 5w-40 last night and it had the SN+ designation but not D1G2.
There are plenty of dino's that are API SN+ but not D1G2, for example. (like ST 5w30 conventional) My guess is there's a couple of reasons behind the not carrying D1G2 thing, a) it's geared towards Euro vehicles and not GM, b) several of the approvals PP Euro 5/40 already carry provide very similar levels of performance, so having D1G2 approval is largely redundant and costly (ROI thing)? I suspect it would carry D1G2 approval if Euro mfg vehicles required it?
 
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Try Motul X-Clean 5w-40. Darn thing has all of the big certs. They even just released a Gen 2 of the X-Clean product itself.
 
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Originally Posted by STIcandy
... Funny enough, I was under the impression that all SN+ bear the D1G2 designation as well, however it appears that's not the case. I looked at a bottle of PP euro 5w-40 last night and it had the SN+ designation but not D1G2.
There are no xw-40 D1G2 oils. Dexos is a GM spec, and no current GM motor spec's a xw-40 oil, so no way for one to meet a non-existent spec. As for the 3.3, I currently have some Pennzoil Platinum 10w-30 SN in mine. I have used some Delo XLE 10w-30 SN before as well. I have one change of the PP 10w-30 SN+ left that will go in next change, then a nice steady diet of 5w-30 Rotella Gas/Truck (SN+). I am not worried about LSPI in this motor, as mentioned, it is more a T-GDI problem than a GDI problem. I do plan on doing a upper intake/valve clean every 25,000 miles though using stuff like CRC intake valve cleaner though.
 
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Originally Posted by STIcandy
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Use a current SN Plus oil that's Dexos certified. 5W20/30 would be best served. Thinner in winters / Thicker in spring, summer and fall. Best to also use Premium Top-tier gas. Lastly, best to stick with OEM Hyundai oil filters.
Why SN+ if LSPI isn't an issue? I recently tried 2 tanks of premium fuel to the tune of an additional $20 each, with absolutely zero improvements in L/100kms. I can't justify the cost if it gets me no returns. I do however buy OEM filters.
You people don't understand the important aspects of premium fuels or no ethanol do you. So you don't notice any change in the performance, but if you look at the internals of a engine run sans ethanol or premium over its life, you people would change your tune. Kills me when I see comments about "well I didn't feel any extra hp, or gas mileage. Go watch how much cleaner a non ethanol fuel burns compared to lower octane/ethanol blend.
 
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