Sil glyde drying out ?

[doitmyself]

Originally Posted by diyjake
Originally Posted by Rand
I use sil glyde on the pins and have not had stuck pins, however not that great on pad ears and back.. I use pastelub for that.
https://goodson.com/products/bpl-2400-pastelub-brake-lubricant

Why do you use Sil-glyde on the pins and not the pastelub? Isn't Pastelub intended for that, I know sil-glyde is too but I hear pastelub is a lot better?

Pastelub is a high solids moly paste similar (but different) to Molykote M77. Numerous auto guru sites recommending the two-grease approach imply that a brake "grease" (i.e., silicone) is best for rubber enclosed pins while the high solids "pastes" are best for the exposed to weather metal to metal areas. This is the combo that works well for me.

Having said that, the Pastelub I have seems to be grease-like in texture and I wonder how it would perform in enclosed pin systems. The high solids Ceramlube that I tried years ago stiffened up and hampered pin movement. I wonder if the oil component dissipates and the remaining solids don't allow the close tolerance pins to move well. Just a hunch.

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted by KneeGrinder
Originally Posted by JHZR2


Honestly it may sound stupid, but we're here to learn... I'm not sure I know how... each caliper is different. Does one actually unscrew or drive out the pins, or just pull back boots when they're present? Ive repaired, replaced and lubed these things when doing brake jobs, but this is slightly different.


They unscrew, they only have 5 to 7 turns of threads. The boots are not a real tight fit, they are a bellows type with accordion middle section and slide pin diameter ends. The boots do not need to be completely packed with "Silicone" grease. If you don't use the proper slide pin lube, like Silicone based Sil glyde, the pins may swell and cause the calipers to freeze up and also swell the boots making them leak and seizing the caliper slide pins. One lube for pins, Silicone based, one lube for pads, I use Permatex ceramic, CRC is good too. I have to do my pads every year on my winter vehicles, but not my pins.


So, that's one type. A one piston variety I think.

There are other types. I just did two piston bendix calipers on my 82 Mercedes that have pins across the tops of the pads, exposed... so I didn't use silicone, fwiw... but do think I should re-lube with something relatively regularly.

For bellows boot types, got it. Have never unscrewed to see what's in there.

I'm not seeing how the selection of lube can make the pins swell... boots for sure.

Originally Posted by doitmyself

Pastelub is a high solids moly paste similar (but different) to Molykote M77. Numerous auto guru sites recommending the two-grease approach imply that a brake "grease" (i.e., silicone) is best for rubber enclosed pins while the high solids "pastes" are best for the exposed to weather metal to metal areas. This is the combo that works well for me.

Having said that, the Pastelub I have seems to be grease-like in texture and I wonder how it would perform in enclosed pin systems. The high solids Ceramlube that I tried years ago stiffened up and hampered pin movement. I wonder if the oil component dissipates and the remaining solids don't allow the close tolerance pins to move well. Just a hunch.


Interesting point for calipers like on my old Mercedes.

I didn't use M77/pastlub, but will look into it.

 

[diyjake]

Originally Posted by doitmyself
Originally Posted by diyjake
Originally Posted by Rand
I use sil glyde on the pins and have not had stuck pins, however not that great on pad ears and back.. I use pastelub for that.
https://goodson.com/products/bpl-2400-pastelub-brake-lubricant

Why do you use Sil-glyde on the pins and not the pastelub? Isn't Pastelub intended for that, I know sil-glyde is too but I hear pastelub is a lot better?

Pastelub is a high solids moly paste similar (but different) to Molykote M77. Numerous auto guru sites recommending the two-grease approach imply that a brake "grease" (i.e., silicone) is best for rubber enclosed pins while the high solids "pastes" are best for the exposed to weather metal to metal areas. This is the combo that works well for me.

Having said that, the Pastelub I have seems to be grease-like in texture and I wonder how it would perform in enclosed pin systems. The high solids Ceramlube that I tried years ago stiffened up and hampered pin movement. I wonder if the oil component dissipates and the remaining solids don't allow the close tolerance pins to move well. Just a hunch.


For whatever reason I always thought that Pastelub was more like Sil-Glyde / 3M Silicone that was intended to be used on slide pins.

 

[Dave9]

^ Why lump Sil Glyde and 3M together? They are not that similar. Sil Glyde is castor oil that presumably has some silicone solids and NLGI #2. 3M is silicone oil (Polydimethylsiloxane) and silicone solids, NLGI #3.

It's not so much the amount of solids (which does still matter) as it is the stability of the base oil. Castor oil simply does not last long enough, both thinning and gumming up instead of retaining good flow properties.

 

[Luftmasse]

Originally Posted by Dave9
^ Why lump Sil Glyde and 3M together? They are not that similar. Sil Glyde is castor oil that presumably has some silicone solids and NLGI #2. 3M is silicone oil (Polydimethylsiloxane) and silicone solids, NLGI #3.

It's not so much the amount of solids (which does still matter) as it is the stability of the base oil. Castor oil simply does not last long enough, both thinning and gumming up instead of retaining good flow properties.


That seems true. How come people are recommending Sil Glyde. Could have saved me some money not buying the Sil Glyde.

 

[dogememe]

I always use Sil Glyde on brake slide pins. They still move freely the next time around. So it's good for thst application.

However I drive a ton, including some aggressive driving and lots of stop and go. That combination results in me changing my brakes like once a year. So even if Sil Glyde is only good for 1.5years I'd never notice.

 

[diyjake]

Originally Posted by Dave9
^ Why lump Sil Glyde and 3M together? They are not that similar. Sil Glyde is castor oil that presumably has some silicone solids and NLGI #2. 3M is silicone oil (Polydimethylsiloxane) and silicone solids, NLGI #3.

It's not so much the amount of solids (which does still matter) as it is the stability of the base oil. Castor oil simply does not last long enough, both thinning and gumming up instead of retaining good flow properties.


Only reason I lumped them together is because they are both supposedly intended to lube slide pins but I am now starting to understand that Sil-Glyde is overrated and nothing special at all, there are way better products out there.

Originally Posted by painfx
Originally Posted by Dave9
^ Why lump Sil Glyde and 3M together? They are not that similar. Sil Glyde is castor oil that presumably has some silicone solids and NLGI #2. 3M is silicone oil (Polydimethylsiloxane) and silicone solids, NLGI #3.

It's not so much the amount of solids (which does still matter) as it is the stability of the base oil. Castor oil simply does not last long enough, both thinning and gumming up instead of retaining good flow properties.


That seems true. How come people are recommending Sil Glyde. Could have saved me some money not buying the Sil Glyde.


I am not recommending Sil-Glyde at all. When I joined this forum a few years ago Sil-Glyde was highly recommended here for slide pins so I bought that but after using it a couple of times I realized this stuff isn't nothing special at all and I am would never buy it again, I only compared it to 3M because they are both intended to lube slide pins.

 

[diyjake]

How does 3M or Raybestos Silicone Paste DBL-2T hold up on caliper pins? The heat doesn't affect it?

 

[doitmyself]

Adding to Dave9's comments above about base oil stability:

Hey diyjake, apply some logic regarding the marketing claims of the newest trendy greases claiming heat tolerance to 2000+ F degrees. I was told that these greases still have the same silicone or PAO oil base that conventional brake greases have. Above 500 F degrees +/-, all of these grease's base oil begin to break down. With these new trendy wonder greases, what is left is only the ceramic or moly solids that can withstand those ungodly high temperatures. While this might work on the exposed to weather, metal-to-metal areas like pad backs, pad ears, shoe backs, within the confines of the rubber enclosed protected pins, these leftover grease solids probably stiffen up and inhibit pin sliding (my experience).

My opinion is that these super high heat brake greases is just marketing that plays on the mentality that bigger (hotter) is always better.

 

[Silveraydo]

Has anyone tried the silicone paste from Mission Automotive. Lots of good reviews on Amazon, but sometimes those are biased or posted by the sellers themselves in my opinion. I'm having issues right now with locked pins in the good ole rust belt aka salt blasted winter highways in Wisconsin. CRC brake lube, the black stuff, has been good on my Ford Focus. But My Silverado and Toyota Sienna are not so receptive to the same stuff. I'm giving NAPA Sylglide a try, but I see on here there are mixed reviews on Sylglide. Basically I am giving the Silicone brake greases a shot and I'm looking for opinions on brands, formulas etc.

 

[Luftmasse]

Originally Posted by Silveraydo
Has anyone tried the silicone paste from Mission Automotive. Lots of good reviews on Amazon, but sometimes those are biased or posted by the sellers themselves in my opinion. I'm having issues right now with locked pins in the good ole rust belt aka salt blasted winter highways in Wisconsin. CRC brake lube, the black stuff, has been good on my Ford Focus. But My Silverado and Toyota Sienna are not so receptive to the same stuff. I'm giving NAPA Sylglide a try, but I see on here there are mixed reviews on Sylglide. Basically I am giving the Silicone brake greases a shot and I'm looking for opinions on brands, formulas etc.


Use 100% silicone. 3M Silicone or Mission Auto.

 

[diyjake]

I wouldn't spend my money on Napa Sylglide, nothing special about it and it doesn't last more than a few months and I know this from personal experience on all 3 of my cars. I am curious to try Raybestos Silicone Paste DBL-2T, heard good things about it on this site.

 

[Silveraydo]

Thanks for the input. I'm thinking on my next brake service I'm going to order some of the actual silicone paste. Now it's time to choose a brand. I have recently learned the hard way that these slider pins need a little more attention here in the Midwest and other rust belt states. The hard way AKA the expensive way. Grease and brake cleaner are very cheap compared to new rotors, pads, calipers, etc

 

[LeakySeals]

Interesting I was just noting the newly purchased Sil glyde is white or clear. My old Sil glyde tube is yellow and does seem a little "pasty" compared to the new one.

 

[doitmyself]

Originally Posted by LeakySeals
Interesting I was just noting the newly purchased Sil glyde is white or clear. My old Sil glyde tube is yellow and does seem a little "pasty" compared to the new one.


A glob of new, white Sil Glyde set out under the sun will turn yellow in an hour or two. When I inquired about this to a company tech. (also: old tubes yellow vs. new tubes white), he "suggested" that it might be the castor oil component that turns yellow.

 

[kc27]

I applied Sil-Glyde to the exterior seal on my quarter panel window. When first applied, the seal looked nice and black. One month later it has a white film. This is on a vehicle that is garaged most of the time and hasn't seen rain or been washed since the Sil-Glyde was applied. The Sil-Glyde that I applied to the interior weatherstripping that contacts either other weather stripping or metal, still looks good. It's just the weatherstripping that was exposed that got the white coating.

The makers of Sil-Glyde describe potential uses including exterior use. I use Sil-Glyde sporadically, so the tube is several years old. Maybe it was beyond its shelf life.

Sil-Glyde® Lubricating Compound A longer-lasting, high film strength protective lubricant for all surfaces, including: rubber, metal, wood, glass, and plastic. Won’t melt, freeze, gum, or run off. Performs from -20 deg F to +400 deg F. Grease consistency stays put and won’t drip off like silicone oils. Harmless to rubber and car finishes. Suggested applications: Trunk seals, rubber bumpers, speedometer cables, brake parts, window channels, hood strips and pads, rubber gaskets, and belts.

 

[buck91]

Yeah, it's not that great. It doesn't last that long in the rust belt, but I am shocked that you are having issues with it. I always thought winter driving washed it out. You really need to put a lot on there to make it last.

Get real silicone paste. I recently got some 3M but I have not reached any conclusions on it's longevity.

I also found it to have a fairly short service life. I get multiple years out of silicone paste.