Sil glyde drying out ?

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1,797
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San Antonio, TX
Thread starter
Does sil glyde dry out easily or is this something else ? At about 50k on my Mazda I relubed the slide pins on the front brakes. This weekend I replaced the pads at 72k. The bottom slide pins on each side were stuck. I pulled all the pins and they weren't Dry but not super greasy. I am wondering if I am going to have to pull the pins at 20k intervals or just use something else like super lube.
 
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3,917
Location
SW Ohio
I had some Sil-Glyde that was old but when it came out of the tube, it "felt" fine. Used it on our new-to-us car not long after we bought it when I just serviced the brakes. Sometime later, I replaced the pads and rotors and the slide pins were fine, still lubricated and slid fine, but the pads were literally glued to the caliper and piston from where I lubed the backs of the pads. I had to use a screwdriver or small pry bar to break them free !
 
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3,989
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Central Maryland
If the pins are dry, the problem is likely the pin seals or boots. Even the slightest misalignment or crack and you'll have a problem, especially with the bottom pins. Sometimes too much grease causes a hydraulic blowout of the boot just as you tighten it down. You also want to avoid air gaps inside. That may mean a trial fitting and adjustment of the grease quantity, but pay careful attention to the boots. I don't use Sil-Glyde on the backs of pads any more, as my FSM's recommend a Moly grease for that purpose.
 
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1,906
Location
Seattle-ish, WA
Originally Posted by Bottom_Feeder
Originally Posted by spasm3
The are 2 versions of syl-glyde. One is a grease , one is marked as for brake use.
They are the same product in a different tube.
Yes.
Quote
If the pins are dry, the problem is likely the pin seals or boots.
Yes +1. Even good grease will get washed out and contaminated with road water intrusion - can be nasty stuff. I note this is a Subaru and I don't have intimate experience, but IME, Japanese vehicles in general are weak on this point. Not my only data points, but for example: I have a three decade old Audi that's still good w/boots, brakes, and it lived most of it's mileage in New England. I have two younger, same mileage Japanese vehicles (Lexus, and Acura/Isuzu) that have lived entirely in non-salt PNW and both have had problems with the pin "hats" leaking and seizing.
 
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3,651
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Worst Case, Ontario
Yeah, it's not that great. It doesn't last that long in the rust belt, but I am shocked that you are having issues with it. I always thought winter driving washed it out. You really need to put a lot on there to make it last. Get real silicone paste. I recently got some 3M but I have not reached any conclusions on it's longevity.
 

JHZR2

Staff member
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44,281
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New Jersey
Wonder if in some applications moly paste or moly/marine anti seize would be better, since the particles might remain..
 
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254
Location
MN
FYI. Two weekends ago, I switched my all season tires to Winter tires so I decided to check the caliper pins since the wheels were off anyway. 1 pin at bottom rear right was rusty frozen (had to pound out). Bottom rear left was rusty but not frozen, yet. The rubber boots were fine. The rest of the pins(6) needed re-lube as well and some had small rust spots. I lubed all pins last year, 09/08/2018. What this telling me is that, at a minimum, check caliper pins and lube it every year. Salt water will get in there. I will be checking and lubing them when Winter wheels coming off in the Spring.
 
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670
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New Jersey
Originally Posted by maxdustington
Yeah, it's not that great. It doesn't last that long in the rust belt, but I am shocked that you are having issues with it. I always thought winter driving washed it out. You really need to put a lot on there to make it last. Get real silicone paste. I recently got some 3M but I have not reached any conclusions on it's longevity.
I wonder the Sil Glyde from Napa vs 3M silicone, which would last longer and be better for the slide pins.
 

JTK

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12,861
Location
Buffalo, NY
Rear caliper components take a horrible beating on rust belt vehicles no matter what lube you use. I've used Sil glyde as long as I've been on BITOG for pin lube. For me, I've found I have to clean and re-lube them every 1-2yrs or they stick.
 

JHZR2

Staff member
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44,281
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New Jersey
Originally Posted by Tundragod
FYI. Two weekends ago, I switched my all season tires to Winter tires so I decided to check the caliper pins since the wheels were off anyway. 1 pin at bottom rear right was rusty frozen (had to pound out). Bottom rear left was rusty but not frozen, yet. The rubber boots were fine. The rest of the pins(6) needed re-lube as well and some had small rust spots. I lubed all pins last year, 09/08/2018. What this telling me is that, at a minimum, check caliper pins and lube it every year. Salt water will get in there. I will be checking and lubing them when Winter wheels coming off in the Spring.
Good reminder for folks to check. I know I never do... Honestly it may sound stupid, but we're here to learn... I'm not sure I know how... each caliper is different. Does one actually unscrew or drive out the pins, or just pull back boots when they're present? Ive repaired, replaced and lubed these things when doing brake jobs, but this is slightly different.
 
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731
Location
North of you Idaho
Originally Posted by JHZR2
Originally Posted by Tundragod
FYI. Two weekends ago, I switched my all season tires to Winter tires so I decided to check the caliper pins since the wheels were off anyway. 1 pin at bottom rear right was rusty frozen (had to pound out). Bottom rear left was rusty but not frozen, yet. The rubber boots were fine. The rest of the pins(6) needed re-lube as well and some had small rust spots. I lubed all pins last year, 09/08/2018. What this telling me is that, at a minimum, check caliper pins and lube it every year. Salt water will get in there. I will be checking and lubing them when Winter wheels coming off in the Spring.
Good reminder for folks to check. I know I never do... Honestly it may sound stupid, but we're here to learn... I'm not sure I know how... each caliper is different. Does one actually unscrew or drive out the pins, or just pull back boots when they're present? Ive repaired, replaced and lubed these things when doing brake jobs, but this is slightly different.
They unscrew, they only have 5 to 7 turns of threads. The boots are not a real tight fit, they are a bellows type with accordion middle section and slide pin diameter ends. The boots do not need to be completely packed with "Silicone" grease. If you don't use the proper slide pin lube, like Silicone based Sil glyde, the pins may swell and cause the calipers to freeze up and also swell the boots making them leak and seizing the caliper slide pins. One lube for pins, Silicone based, one lube for pads, I use Permatex ceramic, CRC is good too. I have to do my pads every year on my winter vehicles, but not my pins.
 
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34,423
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NY
Assuming the proper lube is used, I think the problem with slide pin grease is some people fail to believe brakes are a maintenance item, not an item that gets replaced when they wear out. Case in point, my van averages 2K miles a year. If I wait until I need brakes, trust me the slide pins will need to be greased long before the brakes wear out. I'm sure that is the case with a lot of people, especially people who live in snowy areas and do a lot of highway miles, or have vehicles that see very little use each year.
 
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670
Location
New Jersey
Originally Posted by JTK
Rear caliper components take a horrible beating on rust belt vehicles no matter what lube you use. I've used Sil glyde as long as I've been on BITOG for pin lube. For me, I've found I have to clean and re-lube them every 1-2yrs or they stick.
Exactly. Looks like Sil Glyde doesnt last that long. Have you consider using 100% silicone? Like 3M Silicone?
 
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