Should I change this Volvo’s lower ball joints “just because” - or not?

Joined
Sep 20, 2014
Messages
3,327
I have to replace a tie-rod on my step-son’s 2004 Volvo S60 awd, 160k miles. Boot on the rack end was torn and let grit in to wreck the inner tie rod end. I was looking around to make sure nothing else needed to be done; I am going to do both sides and not just the worn one. We jacked the car up yesterday to check around, and everything else is nice and tight. But I was wondering if maybe I should just do the lbj’s because I’m there, it’s not hard, and the supplier I was getting the other parts from has good quality Delphi ball joints on sale cheap. The bushings on the LCA look fine and no reason for a control arm on either side, really.

I am also a believer in the “if it isn’t broke, leave it alone” school, so I’m torn on this one. Leave it alone, or $35 for new ball joints on a car w/160k on it and hopefully not have to worry about them ever again (he will probably keep driving the car a while, several years at least). I would prefer to do anything else within reason before getting the subsequent alignment after the tie rods go in.
 
Does that car have any knocking sounds over the bumps? Few months ago i replaced ball joint and sway bar links and the annoying knocking sound i had over the bumps disappeared. Volvos from that generation are known for weak suspension parts so it`s not a bad idea to replace ball joints and sway bar links.
 
What are you doing for an alignment? It can make sense to replace parts with known finite lifetimes to save money on redoing the alignment later.

But doing just a TRE you can DIY set the toe with string or lasers.

Mess with the ball joints and you're on the hook for camber and caster too.

If it were my car, no.
 
With 3 V70Rs in our family hovering near 300K miles on the original LBJs, I’m pretty sure that ball joints are not the weak point on the P2 Volvos. I would leave them, unless there’s noted looseness or the boots are looking questionable. Are the Delphi ball joints really a good aftermarket replacement?
 
Maybe wait until the control arm bushings and then replace the whole control arms. I don't know how P2 LCA bushings hold up - P1 bushings don't last that long.
 
LCAs and ball joints on this car are separate. I’ve done them separately many times.

Ball joints aren’t hard, but I can only recommend Lemforder or Volvo in this case. I wouldn’t use anything else.

I would do them, too, just because they’re a high wear item on this chassis, and you’re already paying for an alignment.
 
With 3 V70Rs in our family hovering near 300K miles on the original LBJs, I’m pretty sure that ball joints are not the weak point on the P2 Volvos. I would leave them, unless there’s noted looseness or the boots are looking questionable. Are the Delphi ball joints really a good aftermarket replacement?

Yes, Delphi is top quality. It is Borg Warner, and their brand for a few lines, mainly fuel injection and chassis. I would take them over Lemforder, tbh. Lemforder is not bad, and OE for many things. But they are in fact ZF, and I’ve just had such miserable experiences (as have most german car owners) with ZF products it just leaves bad feelings… ;)

https://www.delphiautoparts.com/

Coincidentally, my project tomorrow is fixing this mess a ZF 5HP24 just dumped on my neighbor’s driveway. If you look closely you can even see the look of utter disdain on my navigator’s face. She was as appalled as I was. ;)

657C3EC1-394F-4662-9130-D2BA12E8DAB2.jpeg
 
Other than the fact that you have the wheel off there is no labor overlap on that car between doing the ball joints and the tie rod ends. Ball joints dont need to be split to the tie rod ends and tie rod ends dont need to be split to do the ball joints.

??

1) Already scheduled time to do work and got son in law and vehicle there.
2) Already researched available BJs and found some, on sale no less
3) Already have vehicle up in the air and wheels off.
4) Already have tools out, clothes changed, and gettin' dirty plus cleanup later
5) Already getting alignment done
6) Already doing a test drive
7) Already updating vehicle records
8) Already posted about it here on BITOG

At the same time, if the BJ boots look good and (prying to check) there is no play, they don't need replaced yet. I don't think as highly of Delphi (more like mid-grade) so would keep the OEM before swapping something that isn't broken.
 
Back
Top