Should I change the fluid? And which type?

[jtaylor]

Ok, I'm a guy that wants the sportiest qualities out of his baby, so I've upgrades the brakes, gotten a sway bar, intake, exhaust, uhp bridgestone tires, and I'm swapping back and forth between GC and M1 0w40, still deciding.

With that in mind, I have 17.5k pretty hard miles on the car, revving up to the redline everyday if not many times everyday.

(At 12k the Honda dealership did one drain and fill maybe?)This previous statement may be irrelevant, however, as I just took the ATF dipstick out of the car to check and discovered that although the fluid is still pink, it smells like used machine shop oil. There is no other word, it smells like a machine shop.

Do I need new fluid?

If so, keep my driving style in mind when suggesting new fluid please. I'd really like to make sure it can take +/- 300hp going into it. The firmer the shift, the better

 

[spasm3]

if it makes you feel better change it! Atf is going to smell as it pushes a lot of parts under pressure. It should not smell burnt. I hear good stuff about redline.
I change my trans fluid in my escape with every other oil change ( about 14,000 miles) due to it not having a filter. since i change it often i use the walmart trans fluid.

 

[pbm]

Honda is not known for great A/T's so I would change the fluid at least every 20K. I'd also install a Magnafine filter. If you really want to treat it good use Redline D4 ATF.

 

[jtaylor]

I just have reservations about doing three drain and fills with redline because thats basically gonna throw away a bunch of money.

 

[Johnny]

Better than throwing away a transmission. The Red Line D4 is an excellent ATF.

 

[jtaylor]

is redline D4 gonna give me about the best shift quality i can get out of just changing the fluid? am I going to notice a difference between redline than sayyy maxlife? redline is just so hard to get. will it offer better power transfer and firmer shifting?

 

[HTSS_TR]

Originally Posted By: jtaylor
Ok, I'm a guy that wants the sportiest qualities out of his baby, so I've upgrades the brakes, gotten a sway bar, intake, exhaust, uhp bridgestone tires, and I'm swapping back and forth between GC and M1 0w40, still deciding.

With that in mind, I have 17.5k pretty hard miles on the car, revving up to the redline everyday if not many times everyday.

(At 12k the Honda dealership did one drain and fill maybe?)This previous statement may be irrelevant, however, as I just took the ATF dipstick out of the car to check and discovered that although the fluid is still pink, it smells like used machine shop oil. There is no other word, it smells like a machine shop.

Do I need new fluid?

If so, keep my driving style in mind when suggesting new fluid please. I'd really like to make sure it can take +/- 300hp going into it. The firmer the shift, the better

You do "sway bar, intake, exhaust, uhp tires" but use thicker oil than recommended that robbed your horse powers. You should use Redline or Amsoil xW20 to get back 5-10 HP's that you lost with thicker oils.

 

[jtaylor]

Right, but I regularly exceed "normal operating conditions" And I'd like my engine to last more than 3 years. if that means I'm 5hp down, so be it, that translates to maybe -.2hp at the wheels. Besides, I really don't feel any negatives from using a thicker oil, which is in fact better than most 5w20's.

Maybe i'll compromise with you. i'm filling up with GC on my next OC in about 1000miles. maybe ill get a few hp back there.

I'm here for ATF advice though sir, thank you.

 

[HTSS_TR]

Jtaylor, it's your car and you have the right to use it as you like it. As someone already mention Redline D4 ATF for your car and it is the excellent recomendation as I see it that why I did not mention the ATF.

I live in So Cal as you are, I rev the '04 S2000 to its 8k redline regularly and it has dino 10W30 as recommended by Honda, so far my car did not develop any engine problem using cheap dino I bought on sale with rebate for less than $1/qt. It does have UHP tires but it does not have any enhance such as sway bar, intake or exhaust. I already drive faster than most, it took me less than 1 hour to drive from Irvine to San Diego a distance of about 80 miles. If I don't have a large stash of oil I got for dirt cheap - less than $2/qt syn and less than $1/qt dino - I would use Redline 5W20 in my S2000, that why I recommend it for your driving conditions. If you don't agree with my idea then just ignore it, don't need to be upset.

Have a good evening.

 

[jtaylor]

I read on an Acura TL forum that Redline Racing ATF made for the crispest shifts while still beings more than driveable.

 

[HTSS_TR]

Redline Racing ATF doesn't lasted very long, if you're racing you Accord then it is another story, but prepare to change it every 10-12k miles or so.

 

[jtaylor]

does redline D4 last appreciably longer? i strongly doubt it. if the type f (racing) ATF lasts 12k, then maybe the D4 will last 15k. right? then what would I do a single 3X1?

 

[mechtech2]

jtaylor - 5 crank HP does not correspond to .2 wheel HP.
Once the drivetrain losses are there, they are there. Very little loss comes with a power increase above that.
So whatever crank HP loss there is, is a wheel HP loss almost directly [from using a too thick oil].
You should feel a difference with the proper oil at most all RPMs.

Trans fluid? Amsoil would be my first choice - see what their offerings are.
If not, use Honda's version and change it more frequently than the severe service schedule recommends.

BTW, a supplemental oil cooler for the trans would be very high on my list!

 

[jtaylor]

Would you recommend a Type F, Racing fluid to firm up the transmission as much as posible?

 

[BigO]

Anybody had any experience with Lubegard????
Sounds like another MIRACLE additive but as with many additives I do not know if it actually works as advertised.

The following is from their website>>>>>> www.lubegard.com

"Lubegard Automatic Transmission Fluid Protectant mixed with the transmission fluid prescribed by the manufacturer decisively increases the heat resistance of the base oil, among other things, and at the same time provides better heat dissipation, thus preventing the plastic parts in the transmission from “melting”.

At the same time, Lubegard makes the valves, pistons and slide valves run more smoothly, which the driver comes to notice after a few kilometers of more precise, incisive and faster gear shifting. Interestingly enough, the individual gear shifts become gentler.

 

[pbm]

Originally Posted By: BigO
Anybody had any experience with Lubegard????
Sounds like another MIRACLE additive but as with many additives I do not know if it actually works as advertised.

The following is from their website>>>>>> www.lubegard.com

"Lubegard Automatic Transmission Fluid Protectant mixed with the transmission fluid prescribed by the manufacturer decisively increases the heat resistance of the base oil, among other things, and at the same time provides better heat dissipation, thus preventing the plastic parts in the transmission from “melting”.

At the same time, Lubegard makes the valves, pistons and slide valves run more smoothly, which the driver comes to notice after a few kilometers of more precise, incisive and faster gear shifting. Interestingly enough, the individual gear shifts become gentler.



I've used Lubegard Red in all my cars. My Accord with the trouble-prone BAXA A/T just turned 100K on the original tranny. Many A/T rebuild shops use this product to avoid comebacks. I'm not a big believer in 'additives' but Lubegard is one that I trust and believe in.