Sealing stamped concrete deck

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Jul 27, 2006
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Southwest Virginia
I have a 1,900 square foot stamped concrete deck around my pool that needs sealing. It was poured and sealed four years ago and is beginning to chip. I had a quote from a local guy for power washing and sealing at $2,000, so I decided to buy a new power washer (mine is ~25 years old) and do it myself.

Any advice on sealers, i.e. brands and chemistry, and application techniques?
 
I believe concrete sealers are of two varieties.
1) penetrating
2) surface coating
* applying a 'penetrating' sealant on an existing 'surface' coating will NOT be effective
.

I seal my concrete driveway every fall.
I have tried several products and like this one the best.
Needs to be applied yearly.
It penetrates and also leaves protection 'on' the surface.
Because it penetrates, this would NOT work if you had a previous 'surface coating'.
I apply with a hand-pump sprayer.
Once dry, rainwater will bead-up on it, and I know the driveway is protected from road salt.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Eagle-1...lant-Sealer-and-Salt-Protectant-EM1/203075978

Hand Pump Sprayer
https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-2-G...wn-and-Garden-Pump-Sprayer-1502HDXA/307766539
 
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I used Thompson's WaterSeal on my garage floor when I built it 25 years ago. The concrete guy that did my floor recommended it. Indoor application so I don't know how it would work for outdoors. It keeps the concrete dust from continually sweeping up.

I bought the 5 gallon can at Walmart. Just poured a little at a time out and broomed it on. Don't put it on too heavy or it will leave a sticky mess that takes forever to dry. It worked good.
 
Because it penetrates, this would NOT work if you had a previous 'surface coating'.
This deck was sealed when poured four years ago. The surface is crumbling in patches over maybe 5% of the surface. Do you think there is enough of this original seal remaining to rule out a penetrating sealant?
 
I do my stamped concrete patio, drive & garage every 2-3 years.
I power wash, air dry for a day or 2, and roll on the sealant.
Lots of sealants out there and the fumes are bad.
Toughest part is getting 3-4 dry days with MI weather (despite the current drought).
Here’s a garage pic…

IMG_4487.webp
 
This deck was sealed when poured four years ago. The surface is crumbling in patches over maybe 5% of the surface. Do you think there is enough of this original seal remaining to rule out a penetrating sealant?

Maybe pour some water on it and see if it just sits there 'or' soaks in.

Silans
and siloxane are the ingredients in what I use.
One penetrates and the other protects the surface .... great for the driveway.

 
This deck was sealed when poured four years ago. The surface is crumbling in patches over maybe 5% of the surface. Do you think there is enough of this original seal remaining to rule out a penetrating sealant?
If water does not bead, there is no coating left on the surface.
 
I would be concerned about "The surface is crumbling in patches over maybe 5% of the surface.". This is a sign of poor concrete surface finish. Its not the job of sealers to hold the surface layer intact.

I hate to lead you down a deep rabbit hole, but The Garage Journal Forum has an entire section on floor treatments and includes input from professionals.

This site (if o.k. to post) is extremely educational. https://allgaragefloors.com/concrete-floor-sealers/

Go to the reviews link at top, then check sealers section for product choices. Concrete floor/paver treatment is an OCD nightmare topic. There are penetrating sealers, topical coatings, and a few products that skirt in between the two. There ARE newer penetrating sealers that advertise better moisture and oil resistance, but from what I understand no penetrating sealer will prevent oil stains if it sits there a long time. Pros and cons as always. As always, there's lots of better products beyond the big box store offerings.
 
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