Rust Proofing on old cars with rusty surfaces.

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2,670
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PA
Thread starter
I've read numerous pages about examples of these spray-on coatings, like Fluid Film, but I'm not finding what I want. And it seems like most people are spraying newer cars, not my situation. The frame on your 2016 truck hasn't rusted using Fluid Film? Incredible. whistle I don't care for Fluid Film because it really does make a mess if you brush against it working on your car at a later date. I've also read from more than one person, issues about Fluid Film and hoses/rubber contact. I used LSP3 recently, considerably more costly than fluid film, but I didn't like it either. Seemed like it dried before the rusty frame surface could soak it in. I wasn't impressed with its wicking ability but it did get a nice surface on it. Is there something in-between? Something that wicks well and penetrates but has some type of surface you can touch eventually? Not interested in POR, or any of the crap that Eastwood sells. I plan to spray down my 1976 W115 300 diesel benz. It has many nooks and crannies.
 
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24,829
Location
Upstate NY
I have my vehicles sprayed with CaraWell each year. I also had them sprayed with NH coatings. CarWell is in Buffalo. If you are close. NH coatings is in New Hampshire. You need to get some of the liquid not aerosol as the aetosol may have been thinned. CarWell sells two grades I believe. There is also Known. You will need to spray an area to see how you like it.
 
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1,664
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Prospect, KY
Crown & Fluid Film are virtually the same. Good products but stay wet for a while and petroleum based so hard on any rubber hoses, bushings, etc. Would be curious to see if anyone has tried some of those rust converter primers for this application. Not sure how they might work.
 
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Location
Canada
In this case, what would you use on rusty joints that have rubber bushings or rubber dust boots to resist rust?
 

555

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586
Location
New England
Originally Posted by spk2000
Crown & Fluid Film are virtually the same. Good products but stay wet for a while and petroleum based so hard on any rubber hoses, bushings, etc. Would be curious to see if anyone has tried some of those rust converter primers for this application. Not sure how they might work.
Fluid Film is lanolin based according to their website.
 
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35,852
Location
ME
I fluid filmed my rusty 05 prius last November. I was just under there and it's completely dry now, but the rust hasn't advanced noticeably. IDK where the FF "went", but it did something useful. I hope/ imagine it got into the "pores" and kept rust from advancing. I try to hit the cars right before the first salt hits the roads. FF is "gloopy" so I want the cold nights so it'll thicken up and "set in".
 
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Canada
Are these various rustproofing products bad for the various rubbers and such? I do a yearly spray with this biodegradable rustproofing spray from Napa which is mostly recycled vegetable oil. Haven't noticed any issue with it, it definitely seems to work on stopping rust. The only negative is that anytime I have to do some work underneath the vehicle it's a bit messy.
 
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9,373
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Canuck living in California
I would knock all the loose rust off and wire brush as much as I can, then hit it with rust converter and after that spray with rustproofing oil. This should slow the rust significantly and even stop it altogether in some areas.
 
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34,652
Location
NY
I mentioned this a few days back, so I quoted myself: Working on the car after the product dried a few weeks is a lot easier than dealing with a car coated with FF.
Originally Posted by demarpaint
Trav had recommended this stuff to me: Rustproofing Compound IMO if you're doing it yourself it is one of the best. It isn't cheap, but it blows Fluid Film away. I did two vehicles twice with it, and I have a little left. I'll probably buy more next year and re-coat them. I touch them up yearly.
 

JHZR2

Staff member
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44,514
Location
New Jersey
Look into what waxoyl, cosmoline and Amsoil HDMP look like. Not wet like oils, and they run a risk of trapping water underneath. But they do great if not compromised, to keep anything from getting to the surface.
 
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462
Location
Kentucky
What about some boiled linseed oil, that certainly dries. I don't think it would hurt rubber either. I've never tried it on metal, always used fluid film or used a converter type product if I want to take the time and be thorough.
 
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10
Location
Canada
I've used some palm oil on rusted surfaces to hold it for a few years before getting it sanded off and repainted with good results. I think any oil will do in slowing down rust from advancing, so the choices then come down to its viscosity and how it seeps into pores and clings onto surfaces to resist runoff.
 
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2,670
Location
PA
Thread starter
Originally Posted by demarpaint
I mentioned this a few days back, so I quoted myself: Working on the car after the product dried a few weeks is a lot easier than dealing with a car coated with FF.
Originally Posted by demarpaint
Trav had recommended this stuff to me: Rustproofing Compound IMO if you're doing it yourself it is one of the best. It isn't cheap, but it blows Fluid Film away. I did two vehicles twice with it, and I have a little left. I'll probably buy more next year and re-coat them. I touch them up yearly.
Does it soak into the rust well before drying? Sounds more like a coating for preventing rust vs preventing rust advancement.
Originally Posted by spk2000
Crown & Fluid Film are virtually the same. Good products but stay wet for a while and petroleum based so hard on any rubber hoses, bushings, etc. Would be curious to see if anyone has tried some of those rust converter primers for this application. Not sure how they might work.
I've used those. I bought the greenish yellow zinc heavy paint from East Wood and the nice fan wands to get in the tight spots. Spent almost $300 doing a Jeep frame over that way and the results were seriously disappointing. Rust came back through fast. In a year it was looking shabby and that Jeep hardly was driven. The Rust Converters you get from Rustoleum last a few months before they start coming through.
 
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24,829
Location
Upstate NY
Originally Posted by demarpaint
I mentioned this a few days back, so I quoted myself: Working on the car after the product dried a few weeks is a lot easier than dealing with a car coated with FF.
Originally Posted by demarpaint
Trav had recommended this stuff to me: Rustproofing Compound IMO if you're doing it yourself it is one of the best. It isn't cheap, but it blows Fluid Film away. I did two vehicles twice with it, and I have a little left. I'll probably buy more next year and re-coat them. I touch them up yearly.
I would think this is really only good for new cars with zero rust. NH Coatings also sells a wax like coating but say only for brand new cars. If the vehicle is not brand spanking new it should get the oil based products that creep.
 
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595
Location
Vancouver, BC Canada
I'm trying to get a product by Bilt Hamber... from the UK. Actually two products: 1) Dynax S50 for internal cavities... creeps well; and 2) Dynax SB. Latter product is like a wax when dry. Good for undercarriage exposed areas. Suitable for mild abrasion. Wets and wicks in to the rust b4 it dries apparently. Very good reviews in the UK. May be hard to get into Canada / US...and therefore expensive. frown .
 
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3,511
Location
Slovenia EU
Originally Posted by nobb
Are these various rustproofing products bad for the various rubbers and such? I do a yearly spray with this biodegradable rustproofing spray from Napa which is mostly recycled vegetable oil. Haven't noticed any issue with it, it definitely seems to work on stopping rust. The only negative is that anytime I have to do some work underneath the vehicle it's a bit messy.
I can speak for a Krown...it is ok....that garage shop sprayed it even on some plastic parts inside the engine bay...and that shop is trusted around here...
 
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