Recommended regimen for a neglected engine

[Kyk noord en]

I've taken over maintenance on a family member's 2001 Toyota Highlander V6, one of the infamous sludging engines.

This SUV was well maintained for its first 50K miles to include OCIs of 5K miles with Toyota dino 5w30 and had no problems, then ignored until 80K -- not even an oil change (I know, I know...not my fault, and why I'm taking over.)

At 90K now, with three oil changes since the neglected period (two with Toyota dino, most recent one with PYB 5w30 based on its status here at BITOG). The engine's running well, no obvious issues -- but I'm worried about the condition of the internals that were left feasting on the same spent oil for so long.

I haven't opened the valve cover -- haven't worked on many cars and don't like tinkering on a car not my own. I'm just assuming its got some build-up inside I'd like to try to counter it before a serious problem emerges, assuming one is pending.

Any suggestions how I might accomplish this with a gentle, oil only approach? I realize AutoRx is championed by many here, and it might be a great product, I'm simply ignorant -- but I have a basic aversion to aftermarket additives.

Willing to try any brand, use conventional or synth (or both), and any OCI.

Many thanks.

 

[daman]

A little MMO and a HDEO or a HM oil with a good shot of Cal like PU,PP or M1 HM

 

[Hemi426]

Try a run of Pennzoil Ultra 5w30 with a premium oil filter. No need to use any other additives.

 

[Kyk noord en]

Originally Posted By: daman
A little MMO and a HDEO or a HM oil with a good shot of Cal like PU,PP or M1 HM
MMO falls into the category of aftermarket additives that I'm skeptical of. They might be great, and I know MMO has loyal users. The majority of my research on these items has been for SeaFoam, which seems a dubious product. Perhaps MMO is quite different -- I'm open to compelling contrary evidence.

Which HDEOs are advised, at what OCI, and for how many cycles?

Ditto the HM oils vis-a-vis OCIs and cycles?

 

[daman]

No need to run a premium oil filter.

your cleaning the engine no need to load the filter even if it's a short run.

 

[daman]

I've never used MMO BUT....from what i read on here why wouldn't one believe it,good guys here. it's cheap and probably works.

 

[Kyk noord en]

Originally Posted By: daman
No need to run a premium oil filter.

your cleaning the engine no need to load the filter even if it's a short run.
Load the filter?

 

[Steve S]

You may be worrying for nothing Why don't you pull the easiest valve cover and inspect . Then you will know for sure.

 

[Kyk noord en]

Originally Posted By: Steve S
You may be worrying for nothing Why don't you pull the easiest valve cover and inspect . Then you will know for sure.
I agree, getting a good look is ideal. Never've pulled a valve cover off -- even on my own car -- and I don't want to futz with someone else's ride when I don't know what I'm doing.

Since a basic, limited regimen of a good, cleaning oil and short OCIs isn't likely to hurt (unless some deposit dislodges and mucks things up), I'm happy to take that route.

 

[chubbs1]

Yeah Kreen and Seafoam are great products, (especially Kreen IMO), If you are really sludged in there, these products will work...sometimes too well, you might get dislodged chunks that clog. As Most people said an oil w/ high boron such as Pennz Ultra and a Wix filter, and do 2.5k-3k oil changes for a while. If that is too expensive for you PYB Conventional w/ Supertech filter at Wallymart....USE SOME MMO! and chage out every 1to 2k 3 or 4 times/

OTOH: if you want to get it clean quicker, and you are rich, Use some Red Line oil. Ester based oils clean well due to their polarity and chemical makeup.

 

[pompadour]

my advice would be very close to everyone else's. i would do short OCIs until your oil is pretty clean. the MMO is not a bad idea either.

i would also leave the valve cover on.

my spin would be to not put the MMO in until the last 500 or so miles of the OCI. i see no reason why the sludge should be loose during the whole OCI.

 

[demarpaint]

Spend some time in the oil additive section, lots of people are using MMO with good results. Some people love it, some hate it, most of those who hate it haven't tried it.

Having said that I would run one or two 3000 mile OCI's with your favorite dino oil, and a Purolator Classic filter or something along that order. I've been using MMO since the 70's and have many success stories from using it. Several of them are scattered about this site. Lots of people who were hesitant have recently tried it and are reporting back favorably.

At less than $4 a qt at Wal-Mart it is worth a try.

 

[iluvhonda]

PP is great oil for the money. I would not worry too much..

 

[Spyder7]

Originally Posted By: fokvoort
I've taken over maintenance on a family member's 2001 Toyota Highlander V6, one of the infamous sludging engines.

This SUV was well maintained for its first 50K miles to include OCIs of 5K miles with Toyota dino 5w30 and had no problems, then ignored until 80K -- not even an oil change (I know, I know...not my fault, and why I'm taking over.)

At 90K now, with three oil changes since the neglected period (two with Toyota dino, most recent one with PYB 5w30 based on its status here at BITOG). The engine's running well, no obvious issues -- but I'm worried about the condition of the internals that were left feasting on the same spent oil for so long.

I haven't opened the valve cover -- haven't worked on many cars and don't like tinkering on a car not my own. I'm just assuming its got some build-up inside I'd like to try to counter it before a serious problem emerges, assuming one is pending.

Any suggestions how I might accomplish this with a gentle, oil only approach? I realize AutoRx is championed by many here, and it might be a great product, I'm simply ignorant -- but I have a basic aversion to aftermarket additives.

Willing to try any brand, use conventional or synth (or both), and any OCI.

Many thanks.


If you have sludge you might be able to see it just by taking the fill cap off and taking a good hard look through that. I didn't have to look very hard to find it in mine.

I'm using PP with a 3-5k OCI combined with a top of the line filter and MMO at a 10% ratio once I hit the 1.5k mark, to clean out mine. This was the route I decided upon as striking the best balance between speed and gentleness, and its also reasonably cost effective as the PP was half price.

-Spyder

 

[Kyk noord en]

Originally Posted By: daman
I've never used MMO BUT....from what i read on here why wouldn't one believe it,good guys here. it's cheap and probably works.
Not doubting the sincerity of the reportage of some here, just that I haven't seen much in the way of definitive evidence.

Noteworthy to me is that oil companies, like Mobil 1, specifically advise against these kinds of products, as do most car manufacturers, so I'm just curious about the disconnect.

I have no horse in this race except to use any product(s) that will safely do the job.

 

[Durango]

I'd just put in a good synthetic oil and then drive it on the highways at a fair clip to get the oil circulated and cleaning slowly. Try that fancy Pennzoil "Ultra" synthetic as it's toted to clean the best.

Durango

 

[Kyk noord en]

Originally Posted By: iluvhonda
PP is great oil for the money. I would not worry too much..
You wouldn't worry about a notoriously sludge-prone engine that didn't get an oil change for 30K miles?

 

[daman]

Originally Posted By: fokvoort
Originally Posted By: daman
I've never used MMO BUT....from what i read on here why wouldn't one believe it,good guys here. it's cheap and probably works.
Not doubting the sincerity of the reportage of some here, just that I haven't seen much in the way of definitive evidence.

Noteworthy to me is that oil companies, like Mobil 1, specifically advise against these kinds of products, as do most car manufacturers, so I'm just curious about the disconnect.

I have no horse in this race except to use any product(s) that will safely do the job.

fair enough yep.

 

[Familyguy]

What I'd do on your next oil change:

Fill with 1qt Marvel Mystery Oil ($3 and change at Walmart)
Fill remainder with Rotella 5W-40 synthetic ($19.50/gal at Walmart)
Install a Napa Gold (really a Wix) oil filter ($7 at your local Napa)

Run that for 3000 miles. After that, use PYB in your normal viscosity and do 5000 mile change intervals with any decent filter and don't worry about it.

p.s. If you don't want to spring for the Rotella above, you can also use Delo or Delvac 15w40. The Delo is under $10/gal on sale now at Walmart and the Delvac isn't much more.

Good luck.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: fokvoort
Originally Posted By: daman
I've never used MMO BUT....from what i read on here why wouldn't one believe it,good guys here. it's cheap and probably works.
Not doubting the sincerity of the reportage of some here, just that I haven't seen much in the way of definitive evidence.

Noteworthy to me is that oil companies, like Mobil 1, specifically advise against these kinds of products, as do most car manufacturers, so I'm just curious about the disconnect.

I have no horse in this race except to use any product(s) that will safely do the job.


The Oil Companies against additives debate has been going on for decades and decades. Not all additives are bad, Schaeffers makes a good one, as did Valvoline, and they are made by oil companies. I look at it this way, if I was the CEO of an oil company I'd be against additives too. After all in the case of MMO it replaces 1 qt of oil, in most cases that's costing an oil company 20% of the sale.

Try using a high detergent oil, after several oil changes you'll probably clean things up. It won't happen fast, and probably won't be a good either as adding something like MMO or Kreen but it should get things cleaner.