Recommendation: High Mileage Going to Get Higher

[games]

Hi All. Have enjoyed lurking here for a few months. Hopeful to get some recommendations for oil:

Vehicle: 2003 Pontiac Grand Am SE2 (3.4L V6); 156,000 miles;
Had lower intake manifold gasket fixed last year; no apparent leaks at this time (knock on wood); Current OCI is about 5,000-5,500 miles (using "oil change" dummy light as a guide);

Use: Mostly highway driving for job will be 100-200 miles per day so figure 2,000-2,500 miles per month;

Owner's Manual: 5w30 API (10W-30 acceptable if temp is above zero)

So, do I stick with dino or go high mileage synthetic? Should I change viscosity between winter and summer? Any other recommendations for filters or additives?

Thank You!

 

[KCJeep]

Highway miles are easy on oil, my first thought is your scenario has Maxlife written all over it. It's a blend, but it's priced only a couple dollars more than dino's and it's got a good add pack too.

How often you looking to change? That's going to make a difference.

 

[bepperb]

Changing oil every two or three months is going to get old fast especially in the winter. If it were mine I'd shoot for 7500 miles on some sort of high mileage syn or syn blend. Maybe longer OCI than that since it's all highway. I'm not really that knowledgeable about the gm 3.4's, I haven't really looked at them since about 06 when we were looking at equinox/torrents so take my advice with a grain of salt. But I do have a few winter in Wisconsin oil changes under my belt and I'd rather be... well... anything else.

 

[LeakySeals]

Unless it needs a high mileage oil, I would go with a standard 5w30 synthetic. I recently purchased a Grand Prix 3.8L. After a fair amount of research (UOA's, other owners, etc) and a BITOG post, the consensus was Pennzoil Ultra 5w30 with a 7K OCI. Should fit your engine also.

 

[games]

Current OCI is about 5,000-5,500 based on dummy light. I'm not a DIY guy, so I typically go to the local express lube with the best deal. I already put heavy mileage on, and if it's going to add more, I would like to "do it right" in terms of oils and fuels.

Thanks for the reply!

 

[games]

Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Unless it needs a high mileage oil, I would go with a standard 5w30 synthetic.


Leaky, thanks for the reply. In your opinion, what dictates the need for a high mileage oil?

 

[LeakySeals]

High mileage oils mainly address issues with rubber seals and gaskets throughout the engine. Not much rubber inside the engine, if you have bad valve seals like me its helpful. And oil leaks. Other than that, some HM oils have extra wear additives, some are slightly thicker. Both of which you can get from a regular synthetic.

 

[KCJeep]

As an owner of both a 3.1 and 3.4 I'd be surprised if the bottom of the engine isn't coated in oil from slow seepage. Mine don't drip though.

 

[Gabe]

A Jiffy Lube synthetic oil change is $92 without taxes or fees.

That is a lot of money to spend every 5,000 miles.

 

[mechtech2]

When you rack up miles fast like that, you are a great candidate for a full synthetic oil.
Oil change intervals are about twice as long. You will save time and money.
The initial expense of the full synth oil seems high, but it works out cheaper for a guy in your situation.

 

[mrsilv04]

I run Valvoline Maxlife 5w30 in a 2000 Grand Am and couldn't be more pleased with it.

 

[Garak]

The suggestions for MaxLife 5w30 are quite reasonable. It's not ridiculously expensive, has a decent additive package, and all the required certifications. It might give you a longer OCI than a normal conventional. A normal conventional would also be quite acceptable in your vehicle. If you go with synthetic, to make it worth it, you have to extend your OCIs suitably.

 

[yonyon]

I would recommend against using a HM oil in that car. The myriad slight oil leaks / normal seepage were a "happy accident" that kept so many of those cars on the road for so many years instead of being crushed due to excessive corrosion.

It is very likely that you lost a lot of this protection due to replacement of the intake manifold gasket end strips and valve cover gaskets. While you're car is suffering from a lack of oil seepage please refrain from wiping off the dribble that occurs while replacing the oil filter.

Keep your exhaust tight and your oil loose.

 

[fdcg27]

If the car is neither leaking much nor consuming much, there is no need to use an HM oil.
You would save money doing your own oil changes, and it is a pretty easy DIY task.
What I would suggest is that you use an inexpensive and readily available syn in a 5w30 with a stout additive package.
Sounds like QSUD?
Run this oil about 7K for a couple of OCIs, then UOA it, to see how long you can safely run the oil.
Given your use of the car, you'll likely be able to exceed 7K.
Given the miles you put on the car and your mostly highway driving, you are a good candidate for extended drains.

 

[bourne]

Napa synthetic is on sale for 3.49. its Valvoline Synpower's step brother. Should work fine in your scenario.

If you dont want to change your own oil, find the nearest Goodyear or Sears, they both run Valvoline products. If you go to their website , there is a 10 dollar off coupon, makes an oil change with 4t rotation , fluid topoff and inspection anywhere between 25~35 depending on your area( for goodyear at least ).

 

[RidgeRun]

My Chevy Silverado has lived it's life on conventional oil, I switched it to HM after about 250k, (no good reason just figured it couldn't hurt) For the first 200k or so they did the changes in house with just whatever oil they could buy cheep, since then I am a distance away so I do it myself. I know synthetic wouldn't hurt but why ruin a good thing, eh. So I guess if you are on a budget just stay with regular, if you can afford the extra $ than synthetic is good too.