This one's been bugging me for quite some time on ocassion and recently regularly as I troubleshooted a persistent rear-end wobble/vibration @ 62mph. The later would set off the former, both conspiring to really annoy me!
This problem is two-fold. First, the plastic layer on the metal latch wears through with time, allowing metal-to-metal contact. This was solved using a tough tape, as the ends are not accessible thus heat-shrink isn't an option. However, silicone tape is as it will adhere to itself and will provide some damping. Over time though, the metal latch opening & closing will chew through even it. For now I'm using UL-181B duct tape.
Second, there is (was) a foam bumper inserted into the back of the upright latch that would take up any slack when the back was upright. With it long gone, and the rear-end vibrating, driving over bumpy/rough roads, etc., this latch would begin to "clatter" again. Anything I stuffed in there (rubber, pieces of silicone tubing, etc) would soon fall out.
Recently, I was fixing the gaps in several pairs of outdoor shoes with Sonneborn NP1, a urethane sealant/adhesive that sticks tenaciously to nearly anything (including old shoes whose soles are coming apart). It doesn't "dry" as much as "cure" and being a urethane, moisture helps. When cured, it's still flexible, incredibly tough and waterproof. The downsides are it takes 24+ hrs to cure and if not removed from your fingers, will quickly transfer itself to anything you touch. Finally if it ever cures on skin, you'll have to sand it off.
If your old, favorite pair of sneakers or outdoor shoes or your kids shoes are coming apart, this stuff will hold them together, fill holes-in-the-soles and make waterproof repairs. Try it. You'll like it.
With that said, I was looking for something else to use it on after the shoes, when I remembered the sled's rear seat latches. I laid down a healthy layer on top of the metal shelf where the piece of foam used to sit. NP1 is the consistency of smooth, thick peanut butter. I used a popsicle stick to press it into place to form a durable "pad", then left both seat backs down while it cured. Once cured and back upright, the rattling has stopped! You can always add more to build up the pad as it will easily stick to itself just as tenaciously as it does anything else.
I should have thought of this years ago........
Another place it would work is to make new hood bump-stops or to build them up a bit if they've shrunk and your hood rattles. Just remember: Anything you glue in place with NP1 will be very, very difficult, if not impossible, to remove.
I think the box stores now carry NP1. Beware that after use, you need to quickly wrap the open end of the cut tube with cellophane and store it indoors if you live in a humid environment. Else it will cure solid in the tube within a year. Even then, you could slice "cured cookies" from the tube and use them as "feet" for something that vibrates or as a flexible shim.
Finally, I've found that "squeeze out" is best left alone to cure first, then neatly trimmed off with a razor blade. Trying to wipe it smooth, like caulk, will really smear it and make a big mess. It can be removed from your fingers with naptha, MEK, tolulene, mineral spirits, etc while still wet.
This problem is two-fold. First, the plastic layer on the metal latch wears through with time, allowing metal-to-metal contact. This was solved using a tough tape, as the ends are not accessible thus heat-shrink isn't an option. However, silicone tape is as it will adhere to itself and will provide some damping. Over time though, the metal latch opening & closing will chew through even it. For now I'm using UL-181B duct tape.
Second, there is (was) a foam bumper inserted into the back of the upright latch that would take up any slack when the back was upright. With it long gone, and the rear-end vibrating, driving over bumpy/rough roads, etc., this latch would begin to "clatter" again. Anything I stuffed in there (rubber, pieces of silicone tubing, etc) would soon fall out.
Recently, I was fixing the gaps in several pairs of outdoor shoes with Sonneborn NP1, a urethane sealant/adhesive that sticks tenaciously to nearly anything (including old shoes whose soles are coming apart). It doesn't "dry" as much as "cure" and being a urethane, moisture helps. When cured, it's still flexible, incredibly tough and waterproof. The downsides are it takes 24+ hrs to cure and if not removed from your fingers, will quickly transfer itself to anything you touch. Finally if it ever cures on skin, you'll have to sand it off.
If your old, favorite pair of sneakers or outdoor shoes or your kids shoes are coming apart, this stuff will hold them together, fill holes-in-the-soles and make waterproof repairs. Try it. You'll like it.
With that said, I was looking for something else to use it on after the shoes, when I remembered the sled's rear seat latches. I laid down a healthy layer on top of the metal shelf where the piece of foam used to sit. NP1 is the consistency of smooth, thick peanut butter. I used a popsicle stick to press it into place to form a durable "pad", then left both seat backs down while it cured. Once cured and back upright, the rattling has stopped! You can always add more to build up the pad as it will easily stick to itself just as tenaciously as it does anything else.
I should have thought of this years ago........
Another place it would work is to make new hood bump-stops or to build them up a bit if they've shrunk and your hood rattles. Just remember: Anything you glue in place with NP1 will be very, very difficult, if not impossible, to remove.
I think the box stores now carry NP1. Beware that after use, you need to quickly wrap the open end of the cut tube with cellophane and store it indoors if you live in a humid environment. Else it will cure solid in the tube within a year. Even then, you could slice "cured cookies" from the tube and use them as "feet" for something that vibrates or as a flexible shim.
Finally, I've found that "squeeze out" is best left alone to cure first, then neatly trimmed off with a razor blade. Trying to wipe it smooth, like caulk, will really smear it and make a big mess. It can be removed from your fingers with naptha, MEK, tolulene, mineral spirits, etc while still wet.
