Ravenol RUP 5W40 with Liqui Moly Ceratec

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Hi,
I have been using Liqui Moly Ceratec in the oil and i like the feeling like the engine runs more easy. For the next OC i will be using Ravenol Rup 5w40 and i contain molybdenum and tungsten in it, i guess this is the same purpose that the Liqui Moly Ceratec? So can i use Liqui Moly Ceratec in the Ravenol Rup oil to get it even better or will this be wrong in any way? I see the Ceratec is graphite-similar structure based on hexagonal boron nitride.
So is molybdenum and tungsten and hexagonal boron nitride (BN) graphite-ish just 3 different ways to reduce friction?

Thanks
 
The odds of you improving a fully formulated lubricant by dumping something else in it are so low you'd be far likely to win the lottery several times in a row. The odds of you negatively impacting cold temperature performance or some other trait are much higher.

Leave the Ravenol alone, it's been specifically formulated and tested extensively to meet the performance requirements of the approvals it carries, defiling it with something else in an attempt to "improve" it is at best, going to do nothing.
 
Hi,
I have been using Liqui Moly Ceratec in the oil and i like the feeling like the engine runs more easy. For the next OC i will be using Ravenol Rup 5w40 and i contain molybdenum and tungsten in it, i guess this is the same purpose that the Liqui Moly Ceratec? So can i use Liqui Moly Ceratec in the Ravenol Rup oil to get it even better or will this be wrong in any way? I see the Ceratec is graphite-similar structure based on hexagonal boron nitride.
So is molybdenum and tungsten and hexagonal boron nitride (BN) graphite-ish just 3 different ways to reduce friction?

Thanks
If you open you manual it says no additives whatsoever.
Get good oil and that is it. Ravenol will cut it.
 
The odds of you improving a fully formulated lubricant by dumping something else in it are so low you'd be far likely to win the lottery several times in a row. The odds of you negatively impacting cold temperature performance or some other trait are much higher.

Leave the Ravenol alone, it's been specifically formulated and tested extensively to meet the performance requirements of the approvals it carries, defiling it with something else in an attempt to "improve" it is at best, going to do nothing.
Thanks for answering the OP's question......

Why not ask liquimoly. They have gotten back to me quickly with any tech questions I had about ceratec.
 
I use it and/or Archoil 9100 in all of my oil. I see a 1% decrease in fuel usage and measurable improvements using the Bosch iNVH Android app. There is lots of moly in the Ceratec which is good for quieting timing chains.
 
According to @MolaKule in this thread hBN is already in a lot of oils


So you’d have to judge for yourself if adding extra made enough of a difference for it to be worth it. It has been for me.
 
Thanks for your answers everyone, i did send a question to Liqui Moly tec and their answered was this:
" Thank you very much for your inquiry and your interest about Liqui Moly Products.
You can add the Cera Tec to the Molygen oil but you won´t have all the benefits of the Cera Tec. You will have the benefits of the solid lubricant which is ceramic based." so to me thats good enough to be worth it. Maybee money out the window but i can live with that 😊
 
Thanks for your answers everyone, i did send a question to Liqui Moly tec and their answered was this:
" Thank you very much for your inquiry and your interest about Liqui Moly Products.
You can add the Cera Tec to the Molygen oil but you won´t have all the benefits of the Cera Tec. You will have the benefits of the solid lubricant which is ceramic based." so to me thats good enough to be worth it. Maybee money out the window but i can live with that 😊

You might want to ask yourself why Ravenol doesn't sell an additive, nor does Mobil. The perceived "benefits" are just that, perceived, if there was merit in these products being integrated into those fully formulated lubricants, the manufacturer would have done so. Ravenol uses a Tungsten product in their lubricants at a level one would assume is optimal for the performance benefit it provides. The idea that adding "more" of something else to a fully formulated lubricant will somehow improve things isn't based in science but the psychological hang-up that we can somehow deviate from what is "typical" and achieve something extraordinary via this process and in doing so are exercising a level of whit or cunning that has escaped "average Joe" who is using his oil unadulterated.
 
I have a Blackstone UOA at 5k miles with liqui Moly Top tec 4100 and 6% ceratec. I will take the next UOA with Ravenol Rup without ceratec at 5k miles and compare. I dont think i am a rocket scientist but just want to be sure if stuff can or can't get even better if throwing some extra money at it 😊
 
I have a Blackstone UOA at 5k miles with liqui Moly Top tec 4100 and 6% ceratec. I will take the next UOA with Ravenol Rup without ceratec at 5k miles and compare. I dont think i am a rocket scientist but just want to be sure if stuff can or can't get even better if throwing some extra money at it 😊


A UOA won’t tell you that. Just because there is more stuff in a oil doesn’t mean it’s better.
 
I was thinking about copper 1 and lead 0, they were impressively low qoute from Blackstone. Good sign reguarding bearings, i give the Credit to ceratec 😊
 
The reason these aren’t pre-added to motor oil is perhaps because they would add $3.20-$3.80 per quart in price and Walmart Supertech Synthetic is $2.80 per quart.

So it may just be difficult to market it pre-added.
Although a satisfying conspiracy theory that is not correct. Do you know how motor oils are formulated?
 
I was thinking about copper 1 and lead 0, they were impressively low qoute from Blackstone. Good sign reguarding bearings, i give the Credit to ceratec 😊
Have you run an oil without the additive and compared the UOA results? How do you know that any oil wouldn't perform just as well?

Also, are there even sources of lead and copper in your engine?
 
I dont know that, as i wrote the next OC will be Ravenol Rup at 5k miles without extra additives, i need something to compare with and then i take it from there
 
Well if you don't know whether there is a source of lead or copper then I wouldn't consider the low values to be particularly significant.
 
Blackstone wrote quote : "your engines copper and lead read impressively low so your brass/bronze parts and bearings are doing especially well"
 
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