QSUD 5W-20, 4375 mi, '11 Accent

[tarbasd]

Last time I ran the oil to 7000 miles and I got pretty bad results with high silicon and copper. I checked the engine carefully and I found no air leaks. Air filter is OEM and it was replaced on schedule; it looks good, no sign of damage, and it seats well. I decided to change the oil much earlier this time to be careful. The result is still pretty bad - if you consider the shorter run, it is essentially the same. First column is the most recent OUA. Second column is the earlier one.

Code:


OIL Universal

Averages

MI on Oil 4375 7051

MI on Unit 25428 21053

Sample Date 7/22/13 2/16/13

Make Up Oil Added



ALUMINUM 3 6 2

CHROMIUM 1 2 0

IRON 15 34 10

COPPER 57 98 13

LEAD 1 1 2

TIN 0 2 1

MOLYBDENUM 62 79 66

NICKEL 0 1 0

MANGANESE 9 17 2

SILVER 0 0 0

TITANIUM 0 0 0

POTASSIUM 1 2 2

BORON 6 15 29

SILICON 22 40 13

SODIUM 5 10 76

CALCIUM 2433 2378 2111

MAGNESIUM 13 20 31

PHOSPHORUS 766 751 685

ZINC 878 930 785

BARIUM 0 0 0

Values

Should Be

SUS Viscosity @ 210 F 53.0 55.2 46-57

cSt Viscosity @ 100 C 8.17 8.83 6.0-9.7

Flashpoint in F 420 385 >355

Fuel %
Antifreeze % 0.0 0.0 0.0

Water % 0.0 0.0
Insolubles % 0.2 0.3
TBN 2.0 1.4 >1.0


Blackstone's Comments:
There were some nice improvements in this sample, just as we expected as your engine continues to mature through the first few oil changes. You mentioned a few specks of metal in the oil. A few specks usually isn't a big deal, but that's never something you're excited to find -- we understand. Keep an eye on the oil and see if the metal continues (or gets worse). From what we see in this report, though, your engine is maturing nicely and there's nothing that we'd say was a problem. The TBN was fine at 2.0 and no fuel, water, or coolant was found.

-----

I like that Blackstone is so relaxed no matter what they find, but it does still seem to me that my engine is sucking in dirt, and I have no idea where. Interestingly, I had high silicon in my other car's UOA, so I'm wondering if it is something around my house/garage, or maybe a batch of contaminated containers Blackstone sent me. Though that wouldn't explain the high copper.

Do you think if I took the car to the dealer showing them these results and asked them to check out the engine under warranty, they would laugh in my face? Even if that happens it may be useful to have a record of that in case my engine blows up later.

 

[KCJeep]

I am running 5w20 in our KIA as well. Miles are too high to be break in wear IMO. I am starting to wonder if these engines really aren't all that well suited to 5w20 despite the fact they push it down your throat.

I am about 1k away from a 5w20 UOA on the KIA it will be interesting to see how it compares to yours. What is the displacement on your engine? Our KIA is a 3.5 v6.

 

[tarbasd]

Originally Posted By: KCJeep
What is the displacement on your engine? Our KIA is a 3.5 v6.


Very different: 1.6L I4.

 

[walk23]

There have been some pretty impressive UOA's with Mobil 5000 conventional. With the shortened intervals a change maybe warranted. I think it would be interesting to see what the additive Titanium does. Just a thought.

 

[salv]

Our service department went back to 5w30 because all the turbo models call for it, along with the upscale models. 5w30 is acceptable for use in all current and past Hyundai and Kia models according to the manufacturers. It is fully compliant with warranty and compatible with the CVVT system (not too thick).

 

[Clevy]

Contaminant ingestion could be from a broken or improperly seated vacuum line.

 

[KCJeep]

Originally Posted By: salv
Our service department went back to 5w30 because all the turbo models call for it, along with the upscale models. 5w30 is acceptable for use in all current and past Hyundai and Kia models according to the manufacturers. It is fully compliant with warranty and compatible with the CVVT system (not too thick).


That I haven't quite figured out. They sure push the 5w20 and even stamp it on the filler cap. But the manual lists 5w30 and 10w30 if 5w20 "isn't available". I'd be running 5w30 in a heartbeat but I'm afraid of the warranty Nazi's. Figured I'd have a hard time making a case that 5w20 wasn't available in the good ol USA. If I could confidently run 5w30 and protect my warranty it'd be a done deal.

 

[Errtt]

You only have 25k on that thing (unknown how driven).
Looks like some wear metals dropping.

I have a 2010 Hyundai 2.4 and although it specs 5w-20 on the fill cap, I'm using 5w30.
Manual says 5w-20 for fuel economy, higher viscosity for satisfactory lube in hot weather and choose an oil considerating range of temperature.
The chart shows 5w-20, 5w30, 10w-30.
just saying......

 

[dnewton3]

The Si and Fe really are not down much on a per-mile basis. While you did reduce Fe and Si and Cu, you also cut the OCI by about 40%.

If you have more than a few OCIs completed, then you still have a Si ingestion leak somewhere. As suggested by Clevy, start looking for the less-obvious leaks in the vacuum sources.

 

[bigt61]

Make sure the air cleaner box is sealed correctly all the way around. Make sure there are no leaks or breaks in the tube coming out of it going back to the intake. Seems like their has to be a contamination source somewhere. Is it the correct air filter installed? Change brand - apply small bead of silicone RTV to help with the seal. Just a few thoughts, hope you get it figured out.

 

[tarbasd]

Thanks all. I checked all around the air cleaner box, the PCV valve and tubing, vacuum hose, everything. Everything still looks new, absolutely no sign of worn, cracked parts, no sign of air leakage. I tried to operate the engine while listening to hissing, but I only hear something like that from around the intake manifold, and I'm guessing I just hear the natural airflow. Besides, any sizable vacuum leak that can be heard would have other signs, like rough idle or check engine light.

I'm running out of ideas... I could start to replace parts, but I have a feeling that it wouldn't change anything.

I searched the forum for UOAs for similar cars, and I found a few; interestingly, all had pretty high silicon and copper readings. Isn't it possible that the OEM air filter on these cars is not very efficient? Maybe the air intake system is of poor design?

I'm still tempted to just go to the dealer and tell them I suspect an air leak and will they check it under warranty, but I think they would say the car is fine.

 

[crazyoildude]

those hyundai /kia 3.5 v6 are very noisy when cold i have 2 of them
also when hot one of them has a pressure problem the oil light stay on for about 4 seconds.. Its leased so im not to worried

 

[tarbasd]

Originally Posted By: crazyoildude
those hyundai /kia 3.5 v6 are very noisy when cold i have 2 of them
also when hot one of them has a pressure problem the oil light stay on for about 4 seconds.. Its leased so im not to worried


That's a very different engine, so I think it has no relevance to this thread.