QS 5w20 w/BG MOA , 2144 mi, 07 Mitsu 3.8

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Blackstone comments: "We haven't seen a sample of BG MOA before, so we aren't really sure what's in it. We compared your sample to a virgin sample of QuakerState that we have on file and the only significant difference that we found was that calcium, a detergent/dispersant, was higher here by~800ppm. Your engine looks good, so the oil and additive were treating you well. Lead was the only metal reading out of line. This is likely from a particle stread through the bearings. It should improve next time. Universal averages are based on an oil run of 4600 miles. Check back on lead.

Vehicle: 2007 Mitsubishi Endeavor, 3.8L V6, 6G75, 31,868 mi
OEM oil filter, OEM air filter, new
2,144 mi on oil...3 weeks

Universal averages @ 4600 mi in ()

Aluminum........1.....(4)
Chromium........0.....(1)
Iron............3.....(12)
Copper..........2.....(4)
Lead...........13.....(6)
Tin.............0.....(1)
Molybdenum.....41.....(57)
Nickel..........0.....(1)
Manganese.......0.....(0)
Silver..........0.....(0)
Titanium........0.....(0)
Potassium.......0.....(1)
Boron.........133.....(63)
Silicon.........8.....(10)
Sodium..........3.....(14)
Calcium......2387.....(2270)
Magnesium......18.....(90)
Phosphorus....687.....(734)
Zinc..........870.....(884)
Barium..........0.....(1)

SUS viscosity @ 210F....52.7.....(46-59)
cSt viscosity @ 100C....8.08.....(6.0-10.2)
Flashpoint in F.........390......(>355)
Fuel %.................. Antifreeze %............0........(0)
Water %.................0........( Insolubles %............0.2......(
Oil history of vehicle. Mileage is approx.
0-27,300 unknown
27,300-29,800, PYB 5w20 w/ARX
Took vehicle to stealership for 30,000mi service, and they put in QS 5w20 w/BG MOA....I ran this on a trip to see my youngest son in FL and back, then dumped it. Currently 1,000 mi into a run of PYB 10w30 to rinse engine.

Lead is too high. Blackstone says "likely particle streak". I'm thinking BG. Guess, no way to tell. Will UOA the PYB 10w30 @ 3k to check on lead. BTW, there is a VOA by Blackstone on MOA in the VOA section about page 12.

Originally planned to post this UOA for entertainment and informational purposes, for I am not inclined to run the QS 5w20, or BG MOA again. But it is not so entertaining to me now. Any opinions on this UOA, and high lead? Anyone have any experience with the 3.8 Mitsu engine, and what oil it does well with ? Planning on going to syn after this run of PYB. Driving style is very short trips 30, (or on the thick side) GC, or M1 0w40. My climate ranges to around 0F in the dead of winter, to 100F in the dead of summer. Thanks everyone, and enjoy your Labor Day weekend...jr
 
Is motor noisey with the 5w20? Given your short trip history, I would stick with the 20w since the engine will never see the 20wt. You can alway dump in some Motor Medic for the long hauls
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Why would the dealer put in BG MOA? You seem to be dumping and wasting oil for what reason?
 
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PYB to rinse engine?! What specifically make PYB a better choice to rinse an engine over naphtha and paraffin? I would prefer Mobil clean 5000. It's got clean in its name!
 
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motor is a little noisey....but sounds same with 5w20 or 10w30...fuel mileage and performance is same with both weights as well. Dumped the QS with MOA early, because I did not want it in there, and I figured whatever good/harm it would do, would be done on a 2k road trip. Ran the orginal PYB 5w20 for only 2500 mi because it was an ARX cleaning. Running the current PYB 10w30 to 3K as an ARX rinse, then on to more reasonable oci's. I have some Redline 5w20 in my stash & will more than likely be running it this upcomming winter/spring.
 
Ah, redline grp-V. I see the cleanup prep now. Still a bit overdone on the cleanup phse aren't we? No matter how hard you try it wont be right until your onto your second oci with RL. I would do a last short OCI with Supertech Syn or similar and a good hard highway blast to clean up the ring lands. I would not use PYB to try to clean anything. Not the lowest sludge preventer out there by far, admitted in their advertising and in the bottle - tons of dirty VII. Like I said, M clean 5000 has a good basestock for cleanup, tons better than PYB. You will still probabaly have to R&R the RL filter after 500 miles +/- due to the intense cleaning of the redline. All said I dont know if a group V would be my choice for a short tripper. More chance of converting to acids in the crankcase, You only need a 15-23% POE AN to get full benefit in a normal pass car scenario. Now a desert runner would be different. Good luck and stop that cleanup soon!
 
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I am using the ARX to do the cleaning, not PYB. Taking out this QS/MOA run, what am I overdoing? Just following the ARX instructions of 2500mi clean, followed by a 3k rinse with group II dino. What is the difference in the basestocks of MC5000 & PYB ? I know the addpacks are very different, but do not know the base differences....is MC5000 group III ? I have always been happy with Pennzoil/Shell products, but am always ready to expand my knowledge....thanks.....jr
 
Just changing your oil twice w/in 2000 miles will acheive most of what a arx will do. How much is in this arx clean and rinse $$? DO NOT RUN A MAINTENANCE DOSE WITH THE RL!!! You can buy leftover G-oil biosyn in the Lowes' lawn equipment section that is 80+ % fatty acid derived ester basestock for about 4 bucks as a poor mans alternative ARX. OTW you might was well just do a short interval OCi with supertech syn and jump on the redline. Like I said in an earlier post, you're not going to see full benefits of the redline until the second OC no matter how much time and money you "waste" on cleanup. The 1st RL oci is gonna do the major clean up. On the Mclean5000 - NO ONE and I repeat NO ONE knows formulations of oil that are not revealed by the manufacturers. But is it suspected by smell, msds and effect that mclean5000 is a majority group iii oil with a lighter duty detergent pack than M1/M1EP.
 
I would never run a maintenance dose of ARX with RL. And, if you must know, I already had several bottles of ARX on hand from another time & project, and did not purchase it for this vehicle. But since I had it, why not use it? The reason I asked about MC5000, is that you said that "MC5000 has a good basestock for cleanup, tons better than PYB" & I was just curious what is the differences in basestock. Now you say that "On the Mclean5000 - NO ONE and i repeat NO ONE knows formulations of oil that are not revealed by the manufacturers." Guess I missed or misunderstood something, but that is nothing new with me. ha. As for the "waste" of time, we all choose what to do with our time. Some would say that the search for knowledge and sharing of knowledge is not a waste, but others would argue that sitting in front of a computer researching about automotive fluids is a sinful waste of our precious time. I appreciate your input, but please do not waste any more of your time on this subject, nothing personal. I am looking for answers, or thoughts, to the original questions in this post.....thx........jr
 
Given GC is wrong spec for japanese engine which should be ACEA A1/B1 A5 Low HTHS economy oil / long life - if you go by specs. Ignoring THAT, I would prefer ELF/TOTAL Quartz Energy 0w-30 in your app - year round to keep from having "chemistry clashes" and unwanted "cleanup". It should also run fine on Castrol Edge 5w-30 year round. You can always dump a litre in the summer and top off with a 40wt of same spec to pad viscosity for hot weather. The Mobil 0w-40 or Castrol Syntec 5w-40 would be good choices also. What does the Manual recommend for oil grade? Sorry for the chastisement - I am recovering OCD/AADD and I see that temperment on these oil boards. Just pointing to a little observed "obsessing"
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I apologise. BTW I was born in Indiana.
 
On the M clean v. YB, it is "believed" that the YB has more Vii than mobil given its "rubbery and viscous" feel in the motor when hot; Vii are notorious dirtiers of the motor. Also the modest "cleanup" that Pennzoil so proudly crows v. it PP is telling.
 
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