Another vote for Rotors. For the price of rotors/pads, I would throw a set of amazon prime special's on there and it should be good for another couple years.
Pulsating brakes/shaking steering wheel
- Thread starter greasegunn
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Originally Posted by Warstud
Were the Lug Nuts torqued to the proper spec?
At the shop? I don't know. But it was a shop I have used for years without issue. When I do them I use a torque wrench.
nut
Were the Lug Nuts torqued to the proper spec?
At the shop? I don't know. But it was a shop I have used for years without issue. When I do them I use a torque wrench.
nut
Originally Posted by Warstud
Were the Lug Nuts torqued to the proper spec?
At the shop? I don't know. But it was a shop I have used for years without issue. When I do them I use a torque wrench.
nut
Originally Posted by krismoriah72
Originally Posted by domer10
Originally Posted by krismoriah72
Put your hand on the front wheels after normal driving..if wheel is scorching hot then suspect caliper/hose which in turn warps rotor.
OP should see if he has access to a temp gun. Take a reading after driving around the block a few times with heavy brake applications.
Well if a caliper is sticking..then no need for heavy brake applications..
I have a IR device and can check the temperature out. Not getting any burning odor though.
Were the Lug Nuts torqued to the proper spec?
At the shop? I don't know. But it was a shop I have used for years without issue. When I do them I use a torque wrench.
nut
Originally Posted by krismoriah72
Originally Posted by domer10
Originally Posted by krismoriah72
Put your hand on the front wheels after normal driving..if wheel is scorching hot then suspect caliper/hose which in turn warps rotor.
OP should see if he has access to a temp gun. Take a reading after driving around the block a few times with heavy brake applications.
Well if a caliper is sticking..then no need for heavy brake applications..
I have a IR device and can check the temperature out. Not getting any burning odor though.
Originally Posted by spasm3
Could it be false activation of the ABS due to a faulty wheel speed sensor?
How could this be checked out?
Could it be false activation of the ABS due to a faulty wheel speed sensor?
How could this be checked out?
Originally Posted by krismoriah72
Put your hand on the front wheels after normal driving..if wheel is scorching hot then suspect caliper/hose which in turn warps rotor.
Might not be a bad idea to replace the hoses on a nearly 12 year old car that sees weather extremes in central New York.
Put your hand on the front wheels after normal driving..if wheel is scorching hot then suspect caliper/hose which in turn warps rotor.
Might not be a bad idea to replace the hoses on a nearly 12 year old car that sees weather extremes in central New York.
Originally Posted by greasegunn
Originally Posted by spasm3
Could it be false activation of the ABS due to a faulty wheel speed sensor?
How could this be checked out?
Find and remove the abs fuse. Drive and see if the problem is gone.
If the ecm does not get a wheel speed signal, it will sometimes modulate the brakes right before you come to a complete stop.
Originally Posted by spasm3
Could it be false activation of the ABS due to a faulty wheel speed sensor?
How could this be checked out?
Find and remove the abs fuse. Drive and see if the problem is gone.
If the ecm does not get a wheel speed signal, it will sometimes modulate the brakes right before you come to a complete stop.
I know it might be a pain, but may have to remove rotors or if there is a way to check to see if the rotors are true while on the vehicle itself....at least this way it isolates the problem...
Originally Posted by greasegunn
Originally Posted by domer10
I would say warped rotor, this is why I do not cheap out with rotors anymore. I know you said you did not, but from experience this sounds like a warped rotor. The junk metal is proliferating into the mid level options for parts with certain manufacturers unfortunately.
I used top end Raybestos rotors. The thing I can't get my head around is the inconsistency - if the rotor is warped or if there is lateral runout wouldn't it be consistent and not vary?
And most definitely one would think with raybestos! But it is possible the problem could be two fold, and there was a issue in calipers which then caused a drastic change in temperature...all it takes is going through water or a heavy rain while driving...then warpage. I know the two times I had rotor warpage, it was in the winter time.
Originally Posted by domer10
I would say warped rotor, this is why I do not cheap out with rotors anymore. I know you said you did not, but from experience this sounds like a warped rotor. The junk metal is proliferating into the mid level options for parts with certain manufacturers unfortunately.
I used top end Raybestos rotors. The thing I can't get my head around is the inconsistency - if the rotor is warped or if there is lateral runout wouldn't it be consistent and not vary?
And most definitely one would think with raybestos! But it is possible the problem could be two fold, and there was a issue in calipers which then caused a drastic change in temperature...all it takes is going through water or a heavy rain while driving...then warpage. I know the two times I had rotor warpage, it was in the winter time.
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You most likely have brake pad material embedded into the rotor causing hot spots during braking which will result in different degrees of friction of brake pad performance for stopping power
Turning rotors will not cure this problem
It will only cure it for a short time
New rotors and pads is the solution !ðŸ‘
Turning rotors will not cure this problem
It will only cure it for a short time
New rotors and pads is the solution !ðŸ‘
Check bushings on front end.
New pads and rotors.
Make sure there is no rust on the hub.
Do it once correctly and you should be good to go.
Good luck.
Make sure there is no rust on the hub.
Do it once correctly and you should be good to go.
Good luck.
Originally Posted by JeffKeryk
New pads and rotors.
Make sure there is no rust on the hub.
Do it once correctly and you should be good to go.
Good luck.
Thanks. Have used the same pads and rotors on several occasions in the past. Hub is cleaned with a wire brush and the 3M hub tool. The intermittent and sporadic nature is what is confusing me.
New pads and rotors.
Make sure there is no rust on the hub.
Do it once correctly and you should be good to go.
Good luck.
Thanks. Have used the same pads and rotors on several occasions in the past. Hub is cleaned with a wire brush and the 3M hub tool. The intermittent and sporadic nature is what is confusing me.
Originally Posted by mclasser
Could also be pad material deposition on the rotors. Try going out to an empty road and bed the pads in again.
That is a 90% chance of this being exactly what you need to do. I have seen several brake jobs do this at the same mileage range after just a pad change. A good bedding solved the problem for me all but one time - where rotors had to be replaced to fix it.
Could also be pad material deposition on the rotors. Try going out to an empty road and bed the pads in again.
That is a 90% chance of this being exactly what you need to do. I have seen several brake jobs do this at the same mileage range after just a pad change. A good bedding solved the problem for me all but one time - where rotors had to be replaced to fix it.
Originally Posted by AVB
Since it is inconsistent and you say pressing the brakes harder lessens the shake I would have a look at the steering and suspension components. It could be the early stages of "death wobble."
What is "death wobble"?
Since it is inconsistent and you say pressing the brakes harder lessens the shake I would have a look at the steering and suspension components. It could be the early stages of "death wobble."
What is "death wobble"?
Originally Posted by greasegunn
Originally Posted by AVB
Since it is inconsistent and you say pressing the brakes harder lessens the shake I would have a look at the steering and suspension components. It could be the early stages of "death wobble."
What is "death wobble"?
Google is your friend here. Often found in modified Jeep Wranglers up until 2006 model year.
Originally Posted by AVB
Since it is inconsistent and you say pressing the brakes harder lessens the shake I would have a look at the steering and suspension components. It could be the early stages of "death wobble."
What is "death wobble"?
Google is your friend here. Often found in modified Jeep Wranglers up until 2006 model year.
Originally Posted by JLTD
Originally Posted by greasegunn
Originally Posted by AVB
Since it is inconsistent and you say pressing the brakes harder lessens the shake I would have a look at the steering and suspension components. It could be the early stages of "death wobble."
What is "death wobble"?
Google is your friend here. Often found in modified Jeep Wranglers up until 2006 model year.
Thanks
Originally Posted by greasegunn
Originally Posted by AVB
Since it is inconsistent and you say pressing the brakes harder lessens the shake I would have a look at the steering and suspension components. It could be the early stages of "death wobble."
What is "death wobble"?
Google is your friend here. Often found in modified Jeep Wranglers up until 2006 model year.
Thanks
Originally Posted by greasegunn
Originally Posted by domer10
I would say warped rotor, this is why I do not cheap out with rotors anymore. I know you said you did not, but from experience this sounds like a warped rotor. The junk metal is proliferating into the mid level options for parts with certain manufacturers unfortunately.
I used top end Raybestos rotors. The thing I can't get my head around is the inconsistency - if the rotor is warped or if there is lateral runout wouldn't it be consistent and not vary?
There is extensive discussion of failure modes leading to shudder here on BITOG, already.
Rotor thickness- rare, but easily checked. Use a micrometer at 8 points around the rotor, any differences should be less than a .001" micrometer can measure.
Rotor was already warped when new - rare, but it happens. Check on vehicle with a dial indicator.
Rotor wears unevenly in thickness - usually only seen on hard use service vehicles with semi-metallic pads. Check with both micrometer and dial indicator.
Rotor warps in use - most common diagnosis, but not nearly as common as commonly thought. In 100% of the many diagnosis I have seen personally, the shop had zero physical evidence (did not use measuring instruments). I have proven a few wrong, and found one of the next two to be the cause.
Rotor was installed a crooked - very common. Check on vehicle with a dial indicator. A rotor installed crooked may not be salvageable. At a minimum the pad buildup needs to be removed.
Rotor has pad imprinting, uneven pad desposits - very common. Especially now with the ongoing elimination of copper in pads, which helped scrape the rotors clean.
Originally Posted by domer10
I would say warped rotor, this is why I do not cheap out with rotors anymore. I know you said you did not, but from experience this sounds like a warped rotor. The junk metal is proliferating into the mid level options for parts with certain manufacturers unfortunately.
I used top end Raybestos rotors. The thing I can't get my head around is the inconsistency - if the rotor is warped or if there is lateral runout wouldn't it be consistent and not vary?
There is extensive discussion of failure modes leading to shudder here on BITOG, already.
Rotor thickness- rare, but easily checked. Use a micrometer at 8 points around the rotor, any differences should be less than a .001" micrometer can measure.
Rotor was already warped when new - rare, but it happens. Check on vehicle with a dial indicator.
Rotor wears unevenly in thickness - usually only seen on hard use service vehicles with semi-metallic pads. Check with both micrometer and dial indicator.
Rotor warps in use - most common diagnosis, but not nearly as common as commonly thought. In 100% of the many diagnosis I have seen personally, the shop had zero physical evidence (did not use measuring instruments). I have proven a few wrong, and found one of the next two to be the cause.
Rotor was installed a crooked - very common. Check on vehicle with a dial indicator. A rotor installed crooked may not be salvageable. At a minimum the pad buildup needs to be removed.
Rotor has pad imprinting, uneven pad desposits - very common. Especially now with the ongoing elimination of copper in pads, which helped scrape the rotors clean.
Originally Posted by HangFire
Originally Posted by greasegunn
Originally Posted by domer10
I would say warped rotor, this is why I do not cheap out with rotors anymore. I know you said you did not, but from experience this sounds like a warped rotor. The junk metal is proliferating into the mid level options for parts with certain manufacturers unfortunately.
I used top end Raybestos rotors. The thing I can't get my head around is the inconsistency - if the rotor is warped or if there is lateral runout wouldn't it be consistent and not vary?
There is extensive discussion of failure modes leading to shudder here on BITOG, already.
Rotor thickness- rare, but easily checked. Use a micrometer at 8 points around the rotor, any differences should be less than a .001" micrometer can measure.
Rotor was already warped when new - rare, but it happens. Check on vehicle with a dial indicator.
Rotor wears unevenly in thickness - usually only seen on hard use service vehicles with semi-metallic pads. Check with both micrometer and dial indicator.
Rotor warps in use - most common diagnosis, but not nearly as common as commonly thought. In 100% of the many diagnosis I have seen personally, the shop had zero physical evidence (did not use measuring instruments). I have proven a few wrong, and found one of the next two to be the cause.
Rotor was installed a crooked - very common. Check on vehicle with a dial indicator. A rotor installed crooked may not be salvageable. At a minimum the pad buildup needs to be removed.
Rotor has pad imprinting, uneven pad desposits - very common. Especially now with the ongoing elimination of copper in pads, which helped scrape the rotors clean.
How is a rotor installed crooked?
Originally Posted by greasegunn
Originally Posted by domer10
I would say warped rotor, this is why I do not cheap out with rotors anymore. I know you said you did not, but from experience this sounds like a warped rotor. The junk metal is proliferating into the mid level options for parts with certain manufacturers unfortunately.
I used top end Raybestos rotors. The thing I can't get my head around is the inconsistency - if the rotor is warped or if there is lateral runout wouldn't it be consistent and not vary?
There is extensive discussion of failure modes leading to shudder here on BITOG, already.
Rotor thickness- rare, but easily checked. Use a micrometer at 8 points around the rotor, any differences should be less than a .001" micrometer can measure.
Rotor was already warped when new - rare, but it happens. Check on vehicle with a dial indicator.
Rotor wears unevenly in thickness - usually only seen on hard use service vehicles with semi-metallic pads. Check with both micrometer and dial indicator.
Rotor warps in use - most common diagnosis, but not nearly as common as commonly thought. In 100% of the many diagnosis I have seen personally, the shop had zero physical evidence (did not use measuring instruments). I have proven a few wrong, and found one of the next two to be the cause.
Rotor was installed a crooked - very common. Check on vehicle with a dial indicator. A rotor installed crooked may not be salvageable. At a minimum the pad buildup needs to be removed.
Rotor has pad imprinting, uneven pad desposits - very common. Especially now with the ongoing elimination of copper in pads, which helped scrape the rotors clean.
How is a rotor installed crooked?
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