Toyota pre-mixed SLLC in Canada is 55/45 by default.
Proper coolant flush
- Thread starter Jonas
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It probably has been mentioned already, but Toyota coolant always seems to look “rusty” when it’s in the radiator...and then when you drain it, it looks like the normal pinkish color that it’s supposed to be.
I don’t know if it’s just how the color of the coolant reflects off the metal in the radiator, or what, but it always looks “dirty” to me.
I don’t know if it’s just how the color of the coolant reflects off the metal in the radiator, or what, but it always looks “dirty” to me.
So, I took out some coolant with a turkey baster and it actually looks perfectly fine. I was able to find some pink long life concentrate and bought an OEM stat as well. It's still good to have those items on hand, but also to know that I don't need to panic and flush the coolant immediately. It seems I was probably being paranoid because the previous owner never mentioned/didn't know about the cooling system history. Should I still change the coolant in the near future? The car is eleven years old with 170k and the coolant service interval is 5 years/150k. I can't thank you guys enough 
On my previous 2006 Matrix I simply drained the radiator every 5 years and refilled with Zerex Asian.
No flushing, no dilution issues. The old stuff coming out looked like the new stuff going in.
New thermostat and radiator cap at the 10 year change.
No flushing, no dilution issues. The old stuff coming out looked like the new stuff going in.
New thermostat and radiator cap at the 10 year change.
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I’d simply do a drain and fill at the radiator and call it a day. Save the thermostat for when/if you need it. You should be good to go.So, I took out some coolant with a turkey baster and it actually looks perfectly fine. I was able to find some pink long life concentrate and bought an OEM stat as well. It's still good to have those items on hand, but also to know that I don't need to panic and flush the coolant immediately. It seems I was probably being paranoid because the previous owner never mentioned/didn't know about the cooling system history. Should I still change the coolant in the near future? The car is eleven years old with 170k and the coolant service interval is 5 years/150k. I can't thank you guys enough
Does it look dirty in the coolant recovery bottle? If so then you might have a problem.
I think your turkey baster told you all is well. If it were my car I would do a radiator drain and refill and a week later do it again. All should be well after that. If you want to make absolutely sure there is all new fluid you could do a radiator drain a third time. That will replace near enough to 100% of the coolant. I like to do a once a year radiator drain and fill even though it is supposed to be a 5 year 100,000 mile chemistry on my vehicle which uses G05. A gallon bottle once a year just isn't breaking my bank and I would prefer doing that than having to buy and replace another radiator or have some other internal problem because I trusted the 5 year 100k plan which let me down.
The truth is that you can do rad drains only and fill with 50/50 coolant if you plan on keeping the car for 10 years or so. Draining the rad, depending on the vehicle gets out about half the coolant, so the contrubution of the fresh corrosion inhibitors is only about half of what it could be. If you are planning on trying to get 200,000 miles on a vehicle, which might take 15 years you are better off doing flushes with water and using concentrated coolant. This is all empirical and hard to predict, but if you have a mechanic tear your dashboard apart to change a heater core in a ten year old car, it becomes harsh reality pretty quick.
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Hmmmm. To me it seems that if you do complete flushes at the recommended mileage/time interval vs. doing partial drain and fills at a much shorter interval, you might end up with approximately the same effect regarding the coolant effectiveness. The problem is that we don't have any facts to really assess this.
Let's take a 5 year coolant. During the last two years or so of a 5 year cycle are the additives weakened enough to make a difference? If a person does a drain and fill every two years do the additives remain at a level that no bad effects occur? We just don't know.
And, when doing a complete flush, do you strip the protective layer off the metal that has to be reestablished? Do the new coolants work like the old ones that claimed it took a while to establish a protective layer on the metal? Anyone know this?
Based on my experience, I do know that today's coolants don't get the sediment, solder bloom, gunk build up compared to the old high silicate green coolants of many decades ago. I do both full and partial drains on vehicles and ag. equipment and there is zero sediment in the old fluid. Just my opinion and experience.
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And sure, that can work, if you commit to do it twice as many times. On some vehicles like my Chevy 3/4 ton, there is no petcock so you have to go through the fun job of pulling the the lower rad hose. Not too terribly bad when you buy the right tool like I did but still a PITA. The convenience off just draining the rad is lost in the hose removal. So yes, a debatable issue, with the rad drains you never get the inhibitors to full strength and with the 5 year full flush the existing inhibitors have to make if a full five years. I have a 20 year old car with the original rad and heater core doing the 5 year interval with a water flush. YRMV.
Yes, YRMV. I have 25 year old farm tractors with original coolant components maintained with just drain and fills. My anecdotal evidence vs. yours, LOL.
I also have an industrial Kohler generator I maintain at work (4 cyl. iron block Ford engine with brass radiator). The manual recommends conventional IAT coolant and I am too chicken to change to something like G05 because I am too chicken to test the seals, brass,etc. for compatibility. I DO full flushes every two years and there is still some gunk and solder bloom observed in the radiator opening. I use Zerek low silicate "green" coolant.
My current ride has coolant that claims 10 years, 150,000 mile life! I just did a rad drain (4 qts of 7.2 qt. system) at 95K miles and 7.5 years. Probably will repeat every 2 - 3 years now. 20 minute job vs. hours to flush entire system (I'm slow). With old age comes laziness. I do have concerns about the environmental/economic effects of maybe too often changes. But, I am a Boomer so we already are to blame for all the world's problems.
Hey, I'm done here. We are both right, LOL!
My anecdotal evidence vs. yours, LOL.I also have an industrial Kohler generator I maintain at work (4 cyl. iron block Ford engine with brass radiator). The manual recommends conventional IAT coolant and I am too chicken to change to something like G05 because I am too chicken to test the seals, brass,etc. for compatibility. I DO full flushes every two years and there is still some gunk and solder bloom observed in the radiator opening. I use Zerek low silicate "green" coolant.
My current ride has coolant that claims 10 years, 150,000 mile life! I just did a rad drain (4 qts of 7.2 qt. system) at 95K miles and 7.5 years. Probably will repeat every 2 - 3 years now. 20 minute job vs. hours to flush entire system (I'm slow). With old age comes laziness. I do have concerns about the environmental/economic effects of maybe too often changes. But, I am a Boomer so we already are to blame for all the world's problems.
Hey, I'm done here. We are both right, LOL!
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I'm pretty sure all of those Pentosin P-HOATS are identical except for color.....in other words.....he could do a couple or 3 D&R's of his system with distilled water and then refill with Pentosin A2 which is a concentrate but is green/blue. Another option would be PGL or PEAK 10X ( again...after several D&R's using distilled water.)
I've been running PGL in my Corolla for approx. 60K without the slightest issue....the complete flush (via D&R) is the key.
I've been running PGL in my Corolla for approx. 60K without the slightest issue....the complete flush (via D&R) is the key.
