Pennzoil

The most significant thing is the approvals and specifications. Pennzoil Platinum Euro has a long list of approvals and licenses despite not wording it properly on their PDS. This dictates other aspects of the oil including HTHS.
 
The Euro oils have approvals for European manufacturers, Compared to regular Pennzoil Platinum, the Euro 30 grade oils run on the thicker side where 30 grade PP tends tobe one of the thinner 30s.
 
Originally Posted by kschachn
The most significant thing is the approvals and specifications. Pennzoil Platinum Euro has a long list of approvals and licenses despite not wording it properly on their PDS. This dictates other aspects of the oil including HTHS.

Is the Euro more superior than the regular Platinum? Will it harm catalytic converters?
 
Originally Posted by PowerSurge
Good info guys. Just learned something new.

Read the data sheets.
 
This sounds like a pre-school class !!!

Good Lord !!!!🤬


This is old news guys !!
Been there done this before !!!
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by CT8
Originally Posted by PowerSurge
Good info guys. Just learned something new.

Read the data sheets.


I can't read.
 
Originally Posted by PowerSurge
Originally Posted by CT8
Originally Posted by PowerSurge
Good info guys. Just learned something new.

Read the data sheets.


I can't read.


Sad
 
lol.gif
Thank god for Mr Obvious to tell us obvious things! I mean it's the specs and approvals! Thanks!! Autastic!
 
Um, check the VOA's, Euro L 5W-30 has an anemic additive package by typical SM./SN.SN+ standards for the typical gas/petrol engine, so you probably do not want to use it in a typical application unless calling for a low SAPS Euro thing. See below, the 5W-30 is also listed as quite thick at temp for a "30" multi-grade bordering on a 40W and some are critical of it. The 0W-30 is also a bit anemic as far as physical detergent additives but for me is gold and my regret is that I didn't buy all of it during the AZ clearance of it...
[Linked Image from bobistheoilguy.com]


The 0W-30...
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
 
What's actually anemic is the notion that a UOA or a VOA is a superior indicator of performance over approvals or certifications. An approval such as Mercedes-Benz 229.5 is a real-world demonstration of an oil's capability rather than someone's guess.

Obtaining Porsche A40 approval means much more than opinions based on a $35 elemental analysis.
 
Originally Posted by Jackson_Slugger
lol.gif
Thank god for Mr Obvious to tell us obvious things! I mean it's the specs and approvals! Thanks!! Autastic!

Who are you talking to here?
 
I would far rather have obvious, accurate posts, than read specious, false posts.

You can't judge "anemic" or "robust" based on a gas chromatograph reading of elements when you don't know the actual chemical make up of the additives.

It's like judging quality of writing by the number of letters used. Measuring the letters doesn't tell you about the words, or how those words work together.

Just because you can measure something (concentrations of base elements in a VOA) doesn't make that measurement useful or helpful.

The approvals DO matter more than the element concentrations because those approvals are the result of TESTING.
 
Let's get back on track. Euro LX is a good choice for someone who wants a 0w for a northern climate but wants a thicker 30 grade. Unfortunately for the moly fans, there is hardly any. Notice the zinc is over 800 ppm which is the limit for most North American GF-5 oils. I ran Euro LX in my 200,000 mile Burb last winter.
smile.gif
 
Last edited:
No Dexos2 approval on the 0w30. Plus no SN Plus on either the 5w30 or 0w30.

So move to another oil blender if thick SN Plus is your ballgame. Not even the Ultra Platinum is considered a thick-side grade of 5w30.
Mobil-1 EP and Valvoline Advanced are thicker grades in 5w30. A step down the quality ladder is Quaker State Ultimate, Rotella Gas & Truck and Castrol Magnatec.... I think the Magnatec is a thicker grade.

My opinion.... as always, on quality at mid-level pricing. No evidence that Valvoline Modern Engine is returning to store shelves yet. No idea on Castrol EP. I swore-off Castrol Edge SN Plus oils a while back. When I opened my most revcent Edge jug late last year, I was expecting to see varnish pour out.

I still have those GTX varnish visions, from the early 1990s.
 
I don't think there are any Euro SN+ oils period

Which is a moot point anyway because the approvals are much more robust than API
 
Originally Posted by Jimmy_Russells
I don't think there are any Euro SN+ oils period

Which is a moot point anyway because the approvals are much more robust than API


We don't live in Europe. We don't drive their highways or some of their vehicles. Many there are light diesel. Even our gasoline is different.
The best specs to follow are what's in your owners manual - for the USA. Want to go up a grade?..... most manuals allow it. Want to go up two grades?..... a few manuals allow it. If not, then clean the wax out of the ear and listen to your engine. Watch for smoke or consumption traits. Odds are, things will improve going up the grade ladder, versus down.

The best engine doctor is the vehicle owner. Not a BITOG Oil scientist here that can only tell you the math formulas. They cannot tell you how your engine will react to their math. All our driving habits and engine brake-in habits are different. Some of the engines were built on hangover withdrawl days. Some were built properly (when totally alert and sober) and act accordingly.

Our spouses make better engine nurses than someone on the internet two thousand miles away, that can only relate the national average on engine symptoms.
 
Last edited:
SN+ as an alert and sober standard of sharp-eared doctoring and trust in own visions :) That's still sad listening.

For a Dexos one might want a Dexos. Otherwise there might be a little more mileage to be had from the fill of such unamerican ignorance or some other hopes and reasoning pursued. All legit.

American gasoline driven reasoning please elaborate.
 
Back
Top