P/S Flush

[Shel_B]

One of my upcoming maintenance tasks is to flush and replace the power steering fluid in my recently purchased 2011 Camry with 77,000 miles. I found a YouTube video showing a technique for doing this, and I was surprised to see the tech recommend installing a magnetic inline filter into the system. Is this a good idea? Might there be a downside to doing this?

The filter they installed looked like this:

 

[demarpaint]

I haven't replaced a PS pump or rack in 45 +years of car ownership, and never had a filter in the system. Flame suit on, but I see that as another possible point for a leak in a PS system. Do a fluid exchange and skip the filter would be my advice.

 

[Donald]

I think the Magnefine filter is overkill for a PS system. Not a lot of wear in the system. But its not a made idea for a auto transmission.

 

[Astro14]

I’ve done a Magnefine on the return line of the PS systems on all three Volvos in my signature.

Did they help? Hard to say. They didn’t hurt.

All three have the original rack. The rack is crazy expensive and requires dropping the subframe to replace, so I wanted to ensure a long life for the rack. With over 265,000 on the high mileage one (the XC) I’m glad I installed the magnefine.

 

[MasterSolenoid]

OP - I've installed the same Filter on my Power Steering system.
Here is (a link) to what it looked like when cut open.

Magnafine Filter Cut Open

Had this Magnafine Inline Filter on my Power Steering for 9 years. From: 100,000 .... To: 160,000 miles It never leaked and I've never had power steering problems. I put another one on and may never change it again. Wiped very small amount of dirt off Magnet.

www.bobistheoilguy.com

I believe changing the Fluid is more important than adding an Inline Filter.

If you don't want to do a 'flush', you could drain and refill the Reservoir several times.

 

[JMJNet]

There is no downside installing PS fluid filter.
It installed it in my previous 2004 Sienna and it actually help the PS to not leak.
Not sure why it was leaking when I bought it.

If this is a Toyota, flushing the PS fluid is very easy.
There are a lot of video on Youtube on it.

 

[4WD]

Instead of a turkey baster … I have a couple 6 ounce super syringes … the small hose that comes with them let you reach deeper into the pump and they pull hard each round too …

 

[Strokenmerc]

I suspect a very high percentage of cars go the the crusher/recycler with the OEM fluid. I would guess the turkey baster (I use homemade fluid vac) once per year would provide plenty of insurance for longevity. Personally, I prefer to not have 2 additional possible leak sources in the system.

 

[AutoMechanic]

I have never seen a power steering filter before even aftermarket. I have done power steering flushes it has been awhile but I have done them. I have replaced some rack and pinions too in my time as a mechanic not one of the common repairs though. I think in my opinion you should be ok with just doing the fluid change. When I do the flushes I just take a siphon from Harbor Freight and siphon the fluid out and add new that’s how I do it.

 

[JHZR2]

My MB cars all have PS filters that are user replaceable. Here’s my 1982 300CD as an example, as I recently serviced it:

My BMW cars at least have had some sort of filter pad inside of the reservoir.

Not sure about the rest...

 

[The Critic]

Not sure you where you would install the filter on that car. The area between the reservoir and the pump is fairly tight. I would be more concerned about the two low-pressure hoses - those tend to leak on those cars and one of them isn't so easy to replace.

 

[Shel_B]

Not sure you where you would install the filter on that car. The area between the reservoir and the pump is fairly tight. I would be more concerned about the two low-pressure hoses - those tend to leak on those cars and one of them isn't so easy to replace.

I'll take a good look when I go out to the car. Thanks for the heads up.

 

[Shel_B]

I suspect a very high percentage of cars go the the crusher/recycler with the OEM fluid. I would guess the turkey baster (I use homemade fluid vac) once per year would provide plenty of insurance for longevity. Personally, I prefer to not have 2 additional possible leak sources in the system.

I recently bought the car, and I have no idea what might be in the system, so all the fluid's coming out. Always changed P/S fluid in my new cars by removing some fluid and replenishing with fresh at every oil change.

 

[Hypergalaxy]

I recently bought the car, and I have no idea what might be in the system, so all the fluid's coming out. Always changed P/S fluid in my new cars by removing some fluid and replenishing with fresh at every oil change.

I myself do that, after a line off flush every 3 years. Keeps the steering pump and rack healthy, with the added bonus of making the steering slightly lighter.

 

[kschachn]

Lately I've just been doing the "front wheels off the ground, return hose disconnected and turn steering wheel left and right" flush for my PS systems. It's a lot easier than trying to run the engine to flush it out.

 

[Oro_O]

I have this on both my (new to me) Volvo XC70 - just installed. It has some PS system wonkiness and this might help. Astro14 already mentioned the issues with this car.

I also have it in a Lexus ES. It has higher mileage and I don't want to do a rack on it, and they frequently eventually do need them. I for certain would add one to a newer Lexus/Toyota.

For fluid, consider Lubegard PS fluid. The ES also has a tendency to leak from the difficult-to-access return hose. I switched from DexIII to the Lubegard fluid and the leaked has slowed considerably and I've been able to avoid the repair. It's a little more expensive but it works well. It also did absolute wonders in the Volvo PS system; which was acting up when I got it and is now 100%. The dealership wanted $2400 or so for a new rack installd; $0.30 worth of Chemtool B-12 and then $20 worth of Lubegard and now the steering is back to normal.

 

[JHZR2]

For cars not as easy to service as my MBs, I just use a fluid extractor suction unit to pull the fluid from the reservoir... Wipe out the reservoir to the extent I can, and then refill with new fluid. IMO not necessary to do every OCI, but it can help refresh fluid readily.

 

[Leo99]

I suspect a very high percentage of cars go the the crusher/recycler with the OEM fluid. I would guess the turkey baster (I use homemade fluid vac) once per year would provide plenty of insurance for longevity. Personally, I prefer to not have 2 additional possible leak sources in the system.

My RAV4 went to car heaven just shy of 400k miles with the factory PS fluid. Toyota had no recommended service interval for it and they were correct.

 

[JeffKeryk]

I used the MityVac to empty the reservoir in our old TSX. Removed and cleaner the reservoir.
Replaced and filled it, then sucked fluid through system via return hose hooked up to MityVac.

Easy peasey.

 

[Trav]

Nothing wrong with an inline filer, it can go anywhere in the return line. I would use their metal can filter instead of the plastic one.
As posted lift the front wheels, return line off and turn the wheel left to right and back filling the reservoir when it gets low. Forget the turkey baster method, its close to worthless and requires a lot of fluid.

Many rack failures I see are due to rust on the inside of rack due to damaged rack boots, always check them carefully and replace if damaged and use OE boots with Oetiker clamps not plastic zip ties, this is probably the important thing you can do especially in the salt belt.