This is probably from the 1980s. While I’ve had it probably 20 years or so it’s hardly been used. I really want a digital torque wrench for oil and transmission pans, but those are kind of pricey. To me torque wrenches on pans, feel weird. I mean, you can torque the pan bolt and then come back and check the torque on the bolt and it will turn a lot more while crushing the gasket further. This one is kind of hard to see 39 inch pounds and then stop. Does anyone have experience with this type on pan bolts? How did it go?
Opinion wanted on this torque wrench
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This is probably from the 1980s. While I’ve had it probably 20 years or so it’s hardly been used. I really want a digital torque wrench for oil and transmission pans, but those are kind of pricey. To me torque wrenches on pans, feel weird. I mean, you can torque the pan bolt and then come back and check the torque on the bolt and it will turn a lot more while crushing the gasket further. This one is kind of hard to see 39 inch pounds and then stop. Does anyone have experience with this type on pan bolts? How did it go?
Looks beautiful, but would not necessarily trust. Calibrate, store and get down to HFT. Their middle line is economical and easy to use.
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Dial torque wrenches certainly have their application in industry. I worked the aviation industry and dial torque wrenches were always used for setting "run-on" torque for things like compressor variable vanes and governor spring pressures. Dial torque wrenches are more accurate than beam style wrenches but both serve the same purpose and are absolutely necessary for some applications.
If you just want something that tells you when you've applied the proper force to a fastener then get a digital or click-type wrench. If you need to set drag on something then you will need a beam or dial type wrench.
If you just want something that tells you when you've applied the proper force to a fastener then get a digital or click-type wrench. If you need to set drag on something then you will need a beam or dial type wrench.
dnewton3
Staff member
That's an old Snap-On tool, and believe it or not, and is probably still reasonably accurate for what you need it to do. The springs in those units are very linear in their response, and don't really wear out under moderate use. If you don't want it, send it to me!
Anyone notice that the scale goes positive AND negative?
I'd guess earlier than the '80's....and I love the crystal-protecting shrouds.
I'd guess earlier than the '80's....and I love the crystal-protecting shrouds.
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Don't really like dial types for gasketed fasteners. They apply constant torque (duh) even at the desired reading, and have a tendency to crush gaskets too much, especially non-rigid ones, or ones that don't have spacers/shouldered bolts. Just like you've experienced, once the gasket takes a set, and then come back and re-apply constant torque to it again, it can crush further . Get a good quality click-type for this kind of thing. They give you that tactile confirmation (click and release) when desired setting is reached, and don't keep allowing torque to be applied like the dial type.
Yep. It has dual springs and a symmetrical cam lever(s). Same accuracy clock-wise or counterclock-wise. And the design goes back to the 40s. Nice piece for what it is.
I'm not sure about these old school Snap-On tools but my Digital Snap-On (2005 model??) with angles that I bought from Ebay (came with calibration certificate) for ~$100 in 2016 still seems to be very accurate to this day, and I have never gotten the calibration done and I have rebuilt around 20 engines and many many other vehicle repairs with it, and not a single issue ever.
I keep thinking I should get the calibration tested but it has been perfect so far.
I have one just like that. It was given to me. Mine is still very accurate. It's a nice piece, of course. I get it out every once in a while and use it for setting the transmission straw torque (15in-lb) in Toyotas.
I have one of a similar vintage, had the calibration checked and was surprisingly still accurate. Better than a 2 year old Craftsman clicker style.
We typically used these in the Navy. The "Click" type were not allowed in Submarine repair. Calibration was every 6 months - a year as I recall.
The range we had to use was 1/4-7/8 of the scale value of the torque wrench. Nothing below or above.
We also use dial torque wrenches in the Commercial HVAC Industry (heavy applied chillers) quite a bit. We do use the click type also. For inch pound torque the deflecting beam type work pretty good.
The range we had to use was 1/4-7/8 of the scale value of the torque wrench. Nothing below or above.
We also use dial torque wrenches in the Commercial HVAC Industry (heavy applied chillers) quite a bit. We do use the click type also. For inch pound torque the deflecting beam type work pretty good.
Thanks for the replies. I think I'll shop for a digital for pan gaskets.
Can you come over and clean up my tool chest ??? I can't find anything anymore . Name you're price 
I used a click style torque wrench recently to torque the transmission pan bolts up on a 97 GMC truck. Worked great. I also have several beam type and a 3/8 and 1/2" Quinn digital torque wrenches from Harbor Freight. I also have the Harbor Freight Quinn 3/8 and 1/2" digital torque adapters that work very well.
Good for doing R&P setup to measure pinion preload.
That Snap-On dial torque wrench was made by Precision Instruments. PI still makes the same unit, only without the SO branding. They are quite expensive, so not typically something a garage mechanic would purchase. If you come across one at a good price, though, grab it.
These are some of the most accurate torque wrenches you can buy. Industrial grade, made in USA, precision instruments that hold their calibration. They can be calibrated, for use within an ISO/AS9100 qualified quality system, and they also are repairable (PI provides both calibration and repair services for these instruments).
These wrenches work off the bending beam principle, and because of that, they are supremely trustworthy and accurate. One downfall: they are not shock resistant. Don't use them on sticky old fasteners that slip-stick, and makes a loud crack noise when the fastener overcomes the static friction. That can damage them. If you find one that looks in good condition, and the dial is working as it should, it's likely perfectly fine.
These are best used where you can have clear view of the dial while using. Bench top torque use is best, not under your car where the dial is hard to see at times. Honestly, these tools are a totally different grade compared to cheap "click" type torque wrenches, and shouldn't be compared to such.
These are some of the most accurate torque wrenches you can buy. Industrial grade, made in USA, precision instruments that hold their calibration. They can be calibrated, for use within an ISO/AS9100 qualified quality system, and they also are repairable (PI provides both calibration and repair services for these instruments).
These wrenches work off the bending beam principle, and because of that, they are supremely trustworthy and accurate. One downfall: they are not shock resistant. Don't use them on sticky old fasteners that slip-stick, and makes a loud crack noise when the fastener overcomes the static friction. That can damage them. If you find one that looks in good condition, and the dial is working as it should, it's likely perfectly fine.
These are best used where you can have clear view of the dial while using. Bench top torque use is best, not under your car where the dial is hard to see at times. Honestly, these tools are a totally different grade compared to cheap "click" type torque wrenches, and shouldn't be compared to such.
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I have a Cornwell wrench like that. I really only use it for checking drag on pinion bearings.
