Oil for a 1968 Fury III, V8
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I would stick to diesel-rated motor oil for the extra ZDDP to protect your flat-tappet cam-any of the big name 15W40 or 10W30 diesel rated (CJ-4 or CI-4) would work fine. What engine does it have-318, 360, 383?
Originally Posted By: bullwinkle
I would stick to diesel-rated motor oil for the extra ZDDP to protect your flat-tappet cam-any of the big name 15W40 or 10W30 diesel rated (CJ-4 or CI-4) would work fine. What engine does it have-318, 360, 383?
318. The first question I asked was if it had the push button transmission, but it does not. Are you thinking something like Rotella T6, 5W40?
I would stick to diesel-rated motor oil for the extra ZDDP to protect your flat-tappet cam-any of the big name 15W40 or 10W30 diesel rated (CJ-4 or CI-4) would work fine. What engine does it have-318, 360, 383?
318. The first question I asked was if it had the push button transmission, but it does not. Are you thinking something like Rotella T6, 5W40?
rotella T5 10w 30 would work, T6 would be a good choice too
Originally Posted By: Mark_S
What oil would you use in it?
1) Lowest cost dino 10w30 if the engine is in reasonable health and sees light service. It doesn't matter if the oil is modern (i.e. SM / SN).
2) Lowest cost dino 30w if the engine is showing age and / or sees hard service, I am also assuming South Carolina for climate on this weight i.e. http://www.castrol.com/castrol/productdetail.do?categoryId=9020528&contentId=6031112
There is no risk to your camshaft and / or lifters if the components are all original. Even new in 1968, the valve spring pressures on the regular 318 are too low (92# closed) to be concerned about cam wear from a modern low ZDDP oil.
What oil would you use in it?
1) Lowest cost dino 10w30 if the engine is in reasonable health and sees light service. It doesn't matter if the oil is modern (i.e. SM / SN).
2) Lowest cost dino 30w if the engine is showing age and / or sees hard service, I am also assuming South Carolina for climate on this weight i.e. http://www.castrol.com/castrol/productdetail.do?categoryId=9020528&contentId=6031112
There is no risk to your camshaft and / or lifters if the components are all original. Even new in 1968, the valve spring pressures on the regular 318 are too low (92# closed) to be concerned about cam wear from a modern low ZDDP oil.
Thanks. The car still has original upholstery and carpet. There is one tear in the upholstery on the driver's side where it came apart at the seam (about 8" long). Underneath the floor mats, the carpet looks new. Head liner looks good, too. I was impressed.
Cool. Another big C-body still rides.
My first car was a 64 Plymouth Fury 4 door, chocolate brown, bought it with my brother for $600 in 1976. Had the 318 with the push button transmission. My understanding it was the last year for the push button. When I tell people about the push button xmsn they give me the deer in the headlights look and you have to do some explaining of how it worked...
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Originally Posted By: SS1970chrysler
Cool. Another big C-body still rides.
The 1968 300 2-Door 440TNT gets Rotella T 10W30 although I wouldnt be afraid of T5 blend is you can find it easier.
Cool. Another big C-body still rides.
The 1968 300 2-Door 440TNT gets Rotella T 10W30 although I wouldnt be afraid of T5 blend is you can find it easier.
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Most of my "C"'s get 15w40 Shell or Delo and aren't driven daily. My 70 Newport gets 10w40 HM and is used as the backup car or second string.
I'd use 10w30 and the Rotella blend would me my top pick.
IIRC there is a ballast resistor on the firewall of that vehicle. If so, you might want to pick up a spare for some non-start situation that has you baffled. Parts stores may have to dust off the box for you. Probably cost a full dollar nowadays.
Other Mopar experts may chime in here, my memory is a little foggy, but if that vehicle has that setup you'd be well served to carry a spare.
IIRC there is a ballast resistor on the firewall of that vehicle. If so, you might want to pick up a spare for some non-start situation that has you baffled. Parts stores may have to dust off the box for you. Probably cost a full dollar nowadays.
Other Mopar experts may chime in here, my memory is a little foggy, but if that vehicle has that setup you'd be well served to carry a spare.
Up to 1968 C boby has ballast resistor on Driver's fender near hood hinge. 1969 and up has it on pass side firewall. They are good to keep spares of.
I think it has a dual resistor.
Originally Posted By: MDS
My first car was a 64 Plymouth Fury 4 door, chocolate brown, bought it with my brother for $600 in 1976. Had the 318 with the push button transmission. My understanding it was the last year for the push button. When I tell people about the push button xmsn they give me the deer in the headlights look and you have to do some explaining of how it worked...
You are correct, beginning '65 column shift was the norm...
My first car was a 64 Plymouth Fury 4 door, chocolate brown, bought it with my brother for $600 in 1976. Had the 318 with the push button transmission. My understanding it was the last year for the push button. When I tell people about the push button xmsn they give me the deer in the headlights look and you have to do some explaining of how it worked...
You are correct, beginning '65 column shift was the norm...
My 64 Newport had the push-button torqueflite. That 361 really moved on the highway.
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