Oil filter help

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I'm in the process of retrofitting a 1984 Chevrolet 305 and 700R4 in my 1996 Chevy S10.

I'm looking to add more oil capacity without making the oil pan larger. I don't want to make it any wider nor make it hang below the frame. I plan on lowering the truck so I don't need to be tearing a hole in my oil pan.

I'm looking at going at using a dual remote mount oil filter setup.

Most of these setups using the PH8A ford oil filter.

I have a few questions about the differences between the filters..

This is the OEM replacement filter for the Camaro engine.

CamaroOEMfilter.jpg


The is no bypass valve on it.

Here is the PH8A style filter used on the remote mount oil filter setups..

PH8A.jpg


It has a bypass valve on it, will this harm the engine at all?

Here is the oversize I found for the PH8A...

51333.jpg


It too has a bypass valve.

Is it bad to use a filter with a bypass valve on an engine that has a filter without one?

I'm planning on using either two Wix filters or two K&N.

Does the remote oil filter setup have to be mounted at the same height or below where the stock filter would sit, or could it be mounted upon the fender?
 
How about getting a sandwich adaptor so you can keep using the stock chevy filter, and then running plumbing to an external oil cooler? That would add a little capacity and the cooling which I presume you feel you need.

As hot as this rod is are you going to be running it 100% more than a few seconds at a time? In such a light chassis I wouldn't expect any oil overheating problems.
 
I may plumb an oil cooler in too.

I think I may run two of the volvo filters.

Its not gunna cause any problems if my remote filters are mounted up on my fender?

I'm planning on doing airbag suspension so my truck will lay out on the ground. After that, probably next year I'm thinking about bodying dropping my truck.
 
With a V8 S10 isn't space a premium? Even if you can make all this stuff fit the plumbing might take up space needed for heat rejection etc. I still vote for "keep it simple".
 
You CAN get a Chevy mount that will fit your normal Chevy (or even mega) filters.


If you go with the 3/4-16 type remote mount, I would do that strange thing some Chevy owners do. Defeat the in block bypass valve.

Mounting: The lines may drain back ..if mounted high enough, the filters will drain forward. Not a real issue to worry about. A "dip" in the line should make it difficult for a bubble to float "down".
 
Originally Posted By: Gearstix
There's an in block bypass valve?

It's a GM thing. One of their better ideas, IMO.
If the recommended OEM replacement filter has no bypass in it, then your engine should already have one. There has to be a bypass somewhere.
 
So, if there is a bypass in the block, if I used two of the volvo filters, wouldn't the blocks bypass cut in before the filters, wouldn't that be okay?
 
Originally Posted By: Gearstix
So, if there is a bypass in the block, if I used two of the volvo filters, wouldn't the blocks bypass cut in before the filters, wouldn't that be okay?


The lowest of the combo (3) would trump the other(s). Using dual filters it's unlikely that you'll see much PSID. The lines, if too long or too skinny, might work the in block bypass a bit more.
 
Haha, sorry Garry I don't quite follow what you said.. Long day today tired..
What is PSID?

I have a remote mount oil filter from a mid 90s 4.3 V6 S10/Blazer 4x4. I think I may use the block adapter providing its the right thread and such, and just buy the dual filter mount.

I will copy a existing kit in regards to line sizing and such.

I may be able to mount the oil filters closer to the block.

My 4.3 powered 2005 Blazer 4x4 has a remote oil filter up under the front bumper...
 
I've also found a dual filter mount that uses this filter...
PH373.jpg


I think I'm going to go with the dual filter mount that uses this filter above
 
PSID is the acromyn for PSI "differential".

I believe Gary is pointing out that the two filters will represent such a low pressure drop that other things are likely to pop the bypass valve before they would.
 
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Yeah, that's about it. With a remote mount and an in block bypass (as opposed to a local bypass valve at the remote filter) you have to look at the remote mount as taking a long(er) detour before returning to the engine. Even assuming that the lines stay fully enveloped, getting the physical mass of xxx amount of oil from a standstill to any given rate is going to require more force than just a short trip through the filter.
 
How true, Gary.

Here's a great example of how every bit of surface tension and friction can contribute to pressure drops:

Stand outside at home, and blow out your breath as quickly as possible. Takes only a few seconds to empty your lungs, and the velocity at your mouth is quite great.

But now try that putting your lips up to a 50' garden hose! You can even put the open end up to your ear to "feel" the lower air flow. Your effort seems greater, but the result is less! Even though air is easily moved in our lowly world of breath, it is GREATLY inhibited by the friction and mass inertia within the hose!

So, while the magnitudes and coefficients will be different for a non-compressible fluid (oil) and hose as compared to air and a garden hose, the concepts still hold true. More hose = more friction along the walls, and more mass inertia of fluid to overcome upon major velocity changes. The pressure drop across two filters may likely now be secondary to the added transfer medium.
 
So, I'm sort of understanding all this terminology a bit better.

So will it cause any problems if I do run two oil remote oil filters?

I understand what you were saying with the pressure thing..
 
Quote:
So will it cause any problems if I do run two oil remote oil filters?


You mean the in block bypass valve? Nope. It will do what it's supposed to as needed.
 
Guys tell me that under hard acceleration small block chevys will suck the oil pan dry.

Will having two 2 quart filters help with this? It'll be holding around 7-8 liters of oil, with the two extra filters...
 
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