oil & filter 2009 Silverado

[Scott_mi]

No matter how much I searched and read, I never found anything that made me confident enough to not have to ask.

2009 Silverado, currently 50,000 miles and calls for 5w30. Last few oil changes have been from Belle tire which says they use synthetic blend (dunno brand) and I don’t know what filter.(It’s blue) Anyways, I'm looking to get more involved, informed, and save some money or at least use better oil for the same cost. Just trying to use what’s most appropriate without spending more for something not necessary.

I seem to be getting around 6,000 miles from the OLM system . I do mostly city driving with short trips from job to job per day, with some longer( 6 miles) each way to hardware store daily/multiple times a day. Some days It can be just to one job site and a material run, other days it seems I’m in and out of my truck all day all over town. I also will usually have around 3 longer trips a year towing a camper.

I’ve done A LOT of searches and reading, and it “seems” that there would be nothing wrong with using conventional name brand dino oil, and the engine would still likely see a very long life? I would probably use a Napa Gold filter which seems to be a quality filter for the price and capable of 6K miles. Through my searches, it seems the Penzioil, Castrol, and Valvoline are highly mentioned quality dino oils.

Is there anything I’ve described that would be “wow you really should use a synthetic blend, or full synthetic? Anything I’ve said that is not quite accurate or any recommendation on my oil or filter choices?

 

[gregk24]

For your truck Quaker State Ultimate Durability 5w30 would be a good oil. Only $21 at Walmart for a 5 quart jug. Any mid range filter will do. Fram Tough Guard, Pure One, Napa Gold.

 

[bigt61]

I would stick with the 5w30 and use at least a semi synthetic if you're towing. Or use any synthetic you want and go a little past the OLM. What you are already doing is fine and will make the truck last nearly forever.

 

[SteveSRT8]

Your truck is calibrated for regular dino oil. For a bit of peace use the newer Dexos certification, which is very stout.

We run a fleet of those here, and engine life in excess of 250k miles is the norm with whatever synthetic is on sale. The motor is not hard on oil.

 

[901Memphis]

You could do better by getting the AC Delco filters instead of the cheaper ones they MIGHT be putting on at the shop.

Other than that following the oil life monitor with dino is fine. If you want to follow the OLM with the cheapest synthetic that wouldn't be too crazy either. Supertech synthetic or QSUD.

Dexos oils have better certifications than no name brand API SNs, but should perform similar.

If you decide to go synthetic, here is the virgin oil analysis chart for all the 5w30s that were recently tested.

http://pqiamerica.com/March2013PCMO/Marchsyntheticsallfinal.html

 

[hattaresguy]

Just buy whatever oil change special you can get for $20-$25 and your GTG. Autozone and Advanced are always running some pretty good specials.

 

[thereed]

If you don't mind going to Walmart, I would suggest getting the cheapest dexos approved oil they carry at the time, right now its Castrol gtx syn-blend for $16.27.

I wouldn't be concerned with syn vs. conventional, I would be more concerned with what specs the oil meets, i.e. dexos1.

As for an oil filter, the Napa gold is a fine filter. I would just make sure to stick with a filter that has a silicone anti-drain back valve.

For just over $25 you can walk out of walmart w/ a dexos oil and a fram xtended guard which is a very high quality oil change.

For about $15 you can get it done with supertech oil and a Purolator classic which meets all the requirement for your vehicle.

 

[cfromc]

There seems to be a big discrepancy between the PQIA test and the data sheets for some of the oils, specifically, QSUD, PU, PP. (the only ones I checked). The NOACK of those oils seems especially low versus the three year old data sheets on the respective websites. Is that due to DEXOS1?

 

[dave1251]

A good anti-drainback valve is not really not needed for a ls engine.

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: cfromc
The NOACK of those oils seems especially low versus the three year old data sheets on the respective websites. Is that due to DEXOS1?

I'm sure it's due to reformulation of some sort, and the latter part of your first sentence is the key. SOPUS is a little slow at updated data sheets and fixing errors.

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: cfromc
There seems to be a big discrepancy between the PQIA test and the data sheets for some of the oils, specifically, QSUD, PU, PP. (the only ones I checked). The NOACK of those oils seems especially low versus the three year old data sheets on the respective websites. Is that due to DEXOS1?


Likely the gtl basestocks