Oil change at 100k. - Need opinion...

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jpa

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Hey guys,
Love the forum - great stuff. I did a search and couldn't find anything. I switched to synthetic about 55k miles ago and now I'm approaching 100k. I'm half-way through the mileage interval for my synthetic and will change when I approach the 10k mark.

My question is this: Since I did not flush my engine when I first switched to Synthetic - any merit the following options?

1. Drain & Fill with cheap dyno and run Seafoam in crank case for 10-15 mins, drain and fill with synthetic
2. Drain & Fill with synthetic but sub 1 qt with MMO.
3. Drain and Fill with cheap dyno but sub 1 qt with Rislone. Run like this for 500 miles and then drain and refill with Synthetic?

I'm basically looking to clean up the crankcase to give her a good start around 100k.

any ideas?

thanks!
jpa






04 4Runner
v6
 
Last edited:
How about adding a pint of MMO 1000 miles before the next OCI, and skip the flush? Then run a qt of MMO during the winter months with your favorite oil. JMO
 
You've been running a synthetic for 50K miles, at a sane OCI. Do you have any reason to believe that you have excessive varnish or sludge?
 
JPA- WELCOME to BITOG! Some guys on this forum love the flush chemicals. You have used synthetic for the last approx. 50k and I would not change your schedule. No need for any flushing unless you have sludge buildup. Let's see what others say. FWIW--Oldtommy
 
IMO I wouldnt go 10K on the first interval of synthetic oil when switching from a dino oil. There is no reason to flush the motor, but the synthetic oil should clean the engine quite well which would require the oil to be changed earlier the first couple of changes. I would go 5K 2x's first or so, then try going farther there after.

Everyone has their own opinion on this, there is no real exact answer.

I believe its even recommended by M1 to change your oil more frequently when first switching to synthetics on a high mileage car. I don't have the quote with me, but you can see it I am sure on M1 HM info sheet.

Jeff
 
4. Keep doing what you're doing!

If you've been running any decent syn for the last 50k, odds are there was enough detergent-type additives in the oil that 'flushing' it would be pretty pointless. Syns like PP and Pennzoil Ultra have more than enough cleaner additives.

Then again, I think most engine additives past fuel injector cleaners and heet are mostly snake oil.

The only reason I might move away from a syn at this point is if the engine itself is leaking oil, or it's consuming over a quart in between OCI, in which case a high mileage dino might be the ticket.
 
Originally Posted By: Xstang
4. Keep doing what you're doing!

If you've been running any decent syn for the last 50k, odds are there was enough detergent-type additives in the oil that 'flushing' it would be pretty pointless. Syns like PP and Pennzoil Ultra have more than enough cleaner additives.

Then again, I think most engine additives past fuel injector cleaners and heet are mostly snake oil.

The only reason I might move away from a syn at this point is if the engine itself is leaking oil, or it's consuming over a quart in between OCI, in which case a high mileage dino might be the ticket.

I agree with everything he said. Since the o/p didn't mention any oil consumption I'd say if it isn't broke - DON'T FIX IT!
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Xstang
4. Keep doing what you're doing!

The only reason I might move away from a syn at this point is if the engine itself is leaking oil, or it's consuming over a quart in between OCI, in which case a high mileage dino might be the ticket.


I did notice on the last change that I was about a quart low - no leaks whatsoever though. Being an oil dunce - is it more common for synthetics to be consumed during a "sane" OCI?
 
Originally Posted By: FZ1
No further action needed. Just continue running a synthetic.


Sounds good to me - thanks for the feedback fellas - will enjoy the board for sure.

Hopefully will be able to contribute more one day!

BTW - I purchased an oil extractor to do my oil changes - no more messy driveways! I used a friend's back in the fall and it was the easiest oil change ever. Only with the filter did I have any slight mess. If you don't have one, I highly recommend. Great for trans changes too.
 
With 55K under your wheels using a synthetic, I would not think you would gain much from a flush. I would just continue with business as usual and not worry!
 
option 4. none of the above

I'd run Castrol Syntec 0w30 European Formula (German Castrol) hard for 6 months or 7,500 miles with either a TRD, Bosch Distance +, Mobil 1, K&N, Fram Extended Guard, or Royal Purple oil filter.
Check the oil color (blotter test) every 1,000 miles to see for yourself how dark the oil is getting and if needed replace the filter halfway through.

German Castrol has significantly cleaned my already clean 3.4L V6 in a 1997 Limited 4Runner 2WD w/ 160,000 plus miles and I've tried most OTC synthetics. It cleaned the internals the best from my own experience.
 
Originally Posted By: GenSan
option 4. none of the above

I'd run Castrol Syntec 0w30 European Formula (German Castrol) hard for 6 months or 7,500 miles with either a TRD, Bosch Distance +, Mobil 1, K&N, Fram Extended Guard, or Royal Purple oil filter.
Check the oil color (blotter test) every 1,000 miles to see for yourself how dark the oil is getting and if needed replace the filter halfway through.

German Castrol has significantly cleaned my already clean 3.4L V6 in a 1997 Limited 4Runner 2WD w/ 160,000 plus miles and I've tried most OTC synthetics. It cleaned the internals the best from my own experience.


Outstanding Info from a fellow 4Runner Owner! Thanks man - I will definitely look for the 0w30 for sure.
 
Originally Posted By: Xstang
4. Keep doing what you're doing!


After a few years of research, my conclusion is that your #1 and 2 would be minimally effective, and any flushes are hit or miss. Miss being engine failure - you can research the reason.

If you have not been abusing your oil or drain intervals, you are ahead of the game and the odds are anything causing engine failure would be inherent design defects or manufacturing defects.

I have a feeling your engine is very much ok and enjoys the syn.
 
You should be good to go since you've been using it this long. If you're looking at cleaning, try a premium synthetic with a reputation for cleaning.
 
You would notice more from other maintenance that is due than an engine flush. However for extra credit you can remove valve covers and snap some pictures for us.
 
100K is not much, and you've been keeping up on oil chnages, although I wouldn't run just any oil labeled "synthetic" for 10K, if I understood your original post correctly.
Others do so every day, however, and report clean engines and long engine life.
Why do you think you need to do anything beyond continuing your current change regimen?
Your engine should be fine, and not need any particular additive to clean it.
As long as the thing is running right and seems clean internally, why use anything other than motor oil?
If you think the engine might need some cleaning, and you prefer synthetic labeled oil, try a run of M1 High Mileage, or maybe full syn Maxlife.
PP and PU claim to be good cleaners, so you might consider them.
I wouldn't use anything other than ARX on an engine I suspected to be sludged, although some report good results with MMO.
I don't think I'd use Seafoam in the oil, and I really don't know enough about Rislone to consider it.
 
100K is not anything on most engines.....and the 4runner has a good reliability reputation for its engine.
No reason to change your routine.
I would avoid adding anything to the oil.....just my opinion, but a high quality synthetic does not need anything in routine service....and additives can clash with the chemistry of the oil.
If you were to take a peek under a valve cover and see an issue, that might be another story, but you most likely have a good thing going (nice and clean in there).
 
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