I do my own winter tire changes on my 17” x 33” truck tires. I have splined lug nuts so I don’t want to damage them using my electric impact gun. They’re torqued to 140 ft lbs and I find my round 24” long 1/2 inch breaker breaker bar tends to flex a lot. I could have bought a beam style 1/2 inch breaker bar but instead I bought this Godzilla Neiko 24” long 3/4 inch breaker bar. Now I can bust nuts like the big boys. Enjoy.
Neiko 24” 3/4” Breaker Bar
- Thread starter Snagglefoot
- Start date
doubtful it will bust many nuts you need a much bigger pipe for that..
usually around 4' cheater pipe.. now busting already damaged studs.. possible.
I was working on some leveling bolts on a wire edm machine last year.. it perminantly bent my HF 1/2" breaker bar so I know what you are saying about flex.
I was using a floor jack handle on the end though so it was about 6' of leverage.
The bolts are iirc around 32mm head size and there was only about 3" clearance above them (in a pocket) so no impact wrenches were possible..
Apparently the bolts were painted 20 years ago and it basically was locktite. I'm 6'2" 200lb and i wasnt budging them it took me and another guy .. I was pushing as hard as I could and the other guy was sorta jerking.. they moved very loudly 1/6 of a turn at a time.
Had sprayed them daily for a week with pb blaster type stuff beforehand. Could have defnitely used 3/4" or even 1" breaker bar. But I dont really want to buy a whole pile of 3/4 sockets too.. they get pricey.
usually around 4' cheater pipe.. now busting already damaged studs.. possible.
I was working on some leveling bolts on a wire edm machine last year.. it perminantly bent my HF 1/2" breaker bar so I know what you are saying about flex.
I was using a floor jack handle on the end though so it was about 6' of leverage.
The bolts are iirc around 32mm head size and there was only about 3" clearance above them (in a pocket) so no impact wrenches were possible..
Apparently the bolts were painted 20 years ago and it basically was locktite. I'm 6'2" 200lb and i wasnt budging them it took me and another guy .. I was pushing as hard as I could and the other guy was sorta jerking.. they moved very loudly 1/6 of a turn at a time.
Had sprayed them daily for a week with pb blaster type stuff beforehand. Could have defnitely used 3/4" or even 1" breaker bar. But I dont really want to buy a whole pile of 3/4 sockets too.. they get pricey.
I would either get different lug nuts or accept a little damage using an impact wrench since I (and you) have one.
24" inch seems short to me for something that needs enough torque to be 3/4" drive, I mean a little flex on a 1/2" has never stopped me from getting lug nuts or other similar torque fasteners off, but I don't think a 4' cheater bar is really needed for something as easily accessible (where you can get more leverage by not being in an awkward position) as lug nuts, unless of course you do have some extreme situation.
I suppose that can be common if you let a shop touch your wheels instead of always DIY so you know they aren't over-torqued. The few times I've needed more than a 2' bar, the lug ended up snapping off.
Then again if it makes it easier for anyone, since it is easily accessible the extra length doesn't hurt much either, just would slow you down vs a bar only long enough to get the job done, and limit where you put it if kept in the vehicle.
24" inch seems short to me for something that needs enough torque to be 3/4" drive, I mean a little flex on a 1/2" has never stopped me from getting lug nuts or other similar torque fasteners off, but I don't think a 4' cheater bar is really needed for something as easily accessible (where you can get more leverage by not being in an awkward position) as lug nuts, unless of course you do have some extreme situation.
I suppose that can be common if you let a shop touch your wheels instead of always DIY so you know they aren't over-torqued. The few times I've needed more than a 2' bar, the lug ended up snapping off.
Then again if it makes it easier for anyone, since it is easily accessible the extra length doesn't hurt much either, just would slow you down vs a bar only long enough to get the job done, and limit where you put it if kept in the vehicle.
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If I were going to buy a 3/4" driver breaker bar, I'd step it up to 40", Tekton makes one." IMO 24" is typically 1/2" drive territory. JMO
Thanks anyhow, the length is fine, I just didn’t like the flex in the 1/2”. The mags require spline nuts to fit in the bolt holes. He’s are some photos. Eight lug nuts each. The spline adapter is shown in the 2nd photo.
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I don't have any 3/4 stuff. If I can't get it loose with 1/2 by hand, I get out the 1/2 aircat impact.
And pound on the splines. Have at it.
So you’re the guy screwing up the splined lug nuts.
I buy the proper tools and have a deft wrist, calibrated with in a tolerance of + or - half a pound foot and my trigger finger squeezes and never ever jerks.So you’re the guy screwing up the splined lug nuts.
JHZR2
Staff member
So I assume the benefit is that the head is much bigger, and the bolt holding the square drive to the bar is beefier. That’s the area that I experience the most flex.
Here are some shots of the 3/4 inch bar beside the 1/2 inch bar. Remind me to sweep the garage.
That’s a nice bar.
I would still get a cheater pipe made up. I’ve got an old jack handle that’s about perfect. 1.5” diameter, cushioned rubber handle, and roughly 2 1/2 feet long.
I would still get a cheater pipe made up. I’ve got an old jack handle that’s about perfect. 1.5” diameter, cushioned rubber handle, and roughly 2 1/2 feet long.
JHZR2
Staff member
Here are some shots of the 3/4 inch bar beside the 1/2 inch bar. Remind me to sweep the garage.
Thanks for sharing those photos! Definitely a big difference in how hefty those areas are.
I’ve sheared off many a1/2 F to 3/8 M adapter. Wonder if a similar 3/4 to 1/2 would have enough “meat” to take significant torque and allow use of a bar like this without shearing the nub off. That way you get the ideal of the heft of the 3/4 bar without having to buy new sockets...
Yes, good point. I have this Jet brand 3/4 x 1/2 inch crossover but I’d like to buy a 3/4 x 22 mm socket to fit the spline tool. I really wasn’t planning on buying a full set of 3/4 inch drive sockets but I see there is a set on sale at Canadian Tire.
Now that I have the 3/4” breaker bar, I’m tempted to pick up this kit with a 3/4 inch drive ratchet and socket set. Have any of you guys found that a 3/4 inch drive socket set can come in handy for light trucks? (Not industrial stuff). This kit is $110 US.
I’ve got a 3/4” socket set, SAE sizes, to cover the large sizes on my Packard. It’s a nice set, link below. It’s made in the US, great quality, but not cheap...
If I were buying tools over again, I would get a 3/4” set of metric sockets. Quite often, I’ve had to go out and buy big metric sockets for a particular job, hub nuts, for example, and now I’ve got half a dozen 3/4” sockets rattling around. I’ve bought what I’ve needed in individual sizes, so a set doesn’t make sense anymore, but years ago, a set would’ve saved me quite a few trips in the middle of a job.
Of course, I had a lot less money then, so, I didn’t buy the set when it would’ve been most useful.
I may still get a set, and here’s my thinking; I used to be able to go to Sears, or NAPA, on a weekend and get an appropriate big socket. It’s a lot harder to buy tools now. Northern has tools, a lot of it Chinese junk. No Sears tools. Lowe’s doesn’t carry big sockets. NAPA has cut back.
Getting stuck in the middle of a job without the right size socket is less likely now because my collection is good, but if I do get stuck, I’m genuinely stuck because of the decline in availability.
You could get just the sockets for a lot less.
Or, in your case, Perhaps:
If I were buying tools over again, I would get a 3/4” set of metric sockets. Quite often, I’ve had to go out and buy big metric sockets for a particular job, hub nuts, for example, and now I’ve got half a dozen 3/4” sockets rattling around. I’ve bought what I’ve needed in individual sizes, so a set doesn’t make sense anymore, but years ago, a set would’ve saved me quite a few trips in the middle of a job.
Of course, I had a lot less money then, so, I didn’t buy the set when it would’ve been most useful.
I may still get a set, and here’s my thinking; I used to be able to go to Sears, or NAPA, on a weekend and get an appropriate big socket. It’s a lot harder to buy tools now. Northern has tools, a lot of it Chinese junk. No Sears tools. Lowe’s doesn’t carry big sockets. NAPA has cut back.
Getting stuck in the middle of a job without the right size socket is less likely now because my collection is good, but if I do get stuck, I’m genuinely stuck because of the decline in availability.
You could get just the sockets for a lot less.
Or, in your case, Perhaps:
My 22mm 3/4 inch socket arrived. Now I can break my lug nuts without having to use a reducer.
JHZR2
Staff member
Years ago (Yikes, probably verging on 20!), I bought a cheap 3/4” set for one (low torque) job only - the fuel sender on Mercedes diesels. It’s the only time I recall using it. At the time it was the easiest way I had to get the specific size, which I think was 34mm or something like that. Nowadays I could probably find three options on amazon and ebay, to just buy the socket. It’s big and heavy, moving it is heavy and hard as a result (ok I’m really whining here, I don’t know how much it weighs, it’s heavy but not that heavy...).
I can’t really think of much that would need it. 1/2“ impacts can put 1100#+ of torque on 1/2 drive.
So what fasteners do you have that would need it? My Ram Cummins doesn’t seem to have the need.
Yes, I didn’t proceed with the set. I just have my 22 mm socket and the 24” long 3/4 inch breaker bar. I think that’s pretty much it because all I wanted to do is break the torque on my spline nuts without pounding on the splines. With all the rest you can use an impact wrench. I’m wondering if 3/4 inch tools are going to be obsolete. I suppose on heavy equipment there are still bolts around with no suitable head room.