What kills the Tecumseh engines? I have a 2002 Toro 22" Recycler with a 6.5 HP Tecumseh and the thing runs like new. I change the oil twice a year and the spark plug and air filter every year and it runs absolutely perfectly in heavy use, 3-3.5 hours at a time every week. The only ossue at all was this spring I found that a lot of the oil had leaked out underneath during the winter but once I started using it the leaking stopped and it hasn't leaked since. maybe a seal had dried out a bit during the winter and then swelled back up when the engine was run regularly again? Any ideas? Thanks!
Need suggestions on a new mower
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Seems Tecumsehs always have carb/hard starting problems after a couple of years. Mechanically, I think they are reliable as any low end Briggs.
This is left field but: I heard Costco has an "MTD Pro" 21", GCV160, front wheel drive and stainless steel deck. Sub $250 on special. The only weak link is the drive system which will last 4 or 5 years. Rotten mower decks kill us in S TX. I realize MTDs are bottom feeders, but....................................
Be careful of the Wal-Mart mowers. A few models have Chinese made OHV engines. Not a knock on Chinese products, but there is very little feedback on that engine so reliability is a question.
This is left field but: I heard Costco has an "MTD Pro" 21", GCV160, front wheel drive and stainless steel deck. Sub $250 on special. The only weak link is the drive system which will last 4 or 5 years. Rotten mower decks kill us in S TX. I realize MTDs are bottom feeders, but....................................
Be careful of the Wal-Mart mowers. A few models have Chinese made OHV engines. Not a knock on Chinese products, but there is very little feedback on that engine so reliability is a question.
Tecumseh's problems started around the time they began complying with emissions requirements/limitations. In reality, if you're willing (or have the skill) to completely rebuild their carbs every two years) the Tecumsehs can be made to last as long as anything else. Another problem I've seen with some of them (on the Craftsman models) is that the crankcase starts producing massive amounts of "blow by" that overtakes the carb and puts oil puddles on the deck. I usually pronounce those engines dead because replacing the crankcase breather doesn't usually help. I'd love to hear suggestions though. I hate to lose an engine.
Mark,
Funny, I just read Consumer Reports during lunch and they highly recommended Toro at or near the top.
I have a Toro that was bought in 1990 and I inheritted it from my Father.
It STILL starts on the 1st or 2nd pull every time, including from being winterized for 6 Months every year !!!!!!!!
I Highly recommend Toro.
Funny, I just read Consumer Reports during lunch and they highly recommended Toro at or near the top.
I have a Toro that was bought in 1990 and I inheritted it from my Father.
It STILL starts on the 1st or 2nd pull every time, including from being winterized for 6 Months every year !!!!!!!!
I Highly recommend Toro.
To get longer life out of the drive system, it helps to drill a hole in the top of the drive system and put in about an ounce of oil every 25 hours of use and then just put a screw in the opening to keep the dirt out. I was able to get a Zerk fitting to work. I will not even begin to "suggest" what kind of oil/grease to put inside the drive on this web site!
Well, I mowed again with the mower set one notch higher. I now see the problems.
The deck has a circular ring underneigh were the blade is housed. The ring is lower than the actual deck by about 1/2". The blade sets UP inside the ring about 1/2". It's a real bad design for people who want to bag their grass. If I keep it low enough to keep my height where I want it, the ring drags on any high spots and also drags up grass that is not cut because it's a laying down stem or something.
My next move is to make a spacer for the blade and atleast get it even with the ring so I don't have folded over grass not getting cut.
I guess for a mulch/bagger mower, it's OK, but really not what I was expecting. Seems that now days, we have to "fix" about everything we buy so it does what we want it to do.
Mark
The deck has a circular ring underneigh were the blade is housed. The ring is lower than the actual deck by about 1/2". The blade sets UP inside the ring about 1/2". It's a real bad design for people who want to bag their grass. If I keep it low enough to keep my height where I want it, the ring drags on any high spots and also drags up grass that is not cut because it's a laying down stem or something.
My next move is to make a spacer for the blade and atleast get it even with the ring so I don't have folded over grass not getting cut.
I guess for a mulch/bagger mower, it's OK, but really not what I was expecting. Seems that now days, we have to "fix" about everything we buy so it does what we want it to do.
Mark
I bought a new lawnmower recently and I am happy with it. I got it at Lowe's. It is a Troy-Bilt with the Honda engine. I think the less expensive Troy-Bilt's have Briggs & Stratton engines.
I checked the Honda lawnmowers at Home Depot and they are nice but too expensive. I got the Troy-Bilt for only about $350.00. The Honda's were up to more than double that price. However the Honda's may have a more durable deck.
The Honda engine on the Troy-Bilt runs like a dream. Much better than any Briggs & Stratton engine that I have experience with. In order to change the engine oil you have to tip the lawnmower over. But I was able to change oil pretty quickly.
The lawnmower has large rear wheels and the cutting heigth can be adjusted easily. I think the deck is steel however so maybe it will not be as durable as the Honda aluminum deck.
I checked the Honda lawnmowers at Home Depot and they are nice but too expensive. I got the Troy-Bilt for only about $350.00. The Honda's were up to more than double that price. However the Honda's may have a more durable deck.
The Honda engine on the Troy-Bilt runs like a dream. Much better than any Briggs & Stratton engine that I have experience with. In order to change the engine oil you have to tip the lawnmower over. But I was able to change oil pretty quickly.
The lawnmower has large rear wheels and the cutting heigth can be adjusted easily. I think the deck is steel however so maybe it will not be as durable as the Honda aluminum deck.
My craftsman w/a briggs 6.5 has been fine now for 6.5 seasons. I think it was a 299.99 mower, that I got for 199.99 on sale. Mulches, and bags just fine. If it died tomorrow, I think I already got my money out of it. It wont though, runs great. Starts first or second pull. I thought I busted the crank numerous times from rocks/stumps, but it still goes with a one year oil change using m1 10w30. Mower runs 1 hour per week, for at least 6 months out of the year. Have never touched the air filter, or changed the spark plug.
I'm so anal with my trucks and motorcycles, the cheap mower gets no love.
I'm so anal with my trucks and motorcycles, the cheap mower gets no love.
You people with the Tecumseh engine problems need to install a once exclusively used but now omitted (thanks for that, bean-counters) device known as a fuel shut-off. This engine is (was) widely used for snow-throwers and the carb problem surfaces easily in the winter as the fumes with windows closed, soon lead you to the source of the problem. Try this fix, I'll bet it solves your problem and try shutting off fuel first to clean out carb of all gas. All Ariens come with these and the older ones get them after gas weeps from the bowl.
JTK
$100 Site Donor 2025
I've never had issues with tecumseh engines other than they always seemed to be the 'bottom feeder' of the small OPE engines. H2GURU, I couldn't agree more with the importance of running the carb out of fuel prior to storage. I've yet to see one of these tecumseh V-twins first hand, but talk about carb problems? This baby has twin carbs! http://www.tecumsehpower.com/frameset.php?page=/Products/specs.php?std=32|opt=33
Joel
Joel
I have a sears mower with a techumseh and it is9 years old I bought it from a neighbor ,used once and I got it cheap. It is a pos lawnmower I am running 5w/20 to see if it will die sooner It mulches good if I pull it ,if I push it it mulches bad. I replaced the rope recoil thingie tuice but the engine has been real good . Does the offset key on the "flywheel magneto" have something to do with the timing for emmisions
I have a Super Recycler Toro electric start $650 mower I bought last year.
model # 20058.
I like everything about it except the bagging system and the thing swallows gas..
I had a Honda for 15 years and the bagging setup wasn't as cheap ____ as the Toro and the gas issue was better but the Honda only had 4.5HP.
The Toro bag and how it goes on and off is cheap quality.
The 6.5 HP does a nice job cutting and vacuuming but sucks up a lot of gas.
It's not so much the coat of the gas,it's the constant having to add gas that's a pain in the ____.
Oh and I change the oil twice a year and use Amsoil Formul4-Stroke 10w30/SAE 30Synthetic Small Engine Oil (ASE)
model # 20058.
I like everything about it except the bagging system and the thing swallows gas..
I had a Honda for 15 years and the bagging setup wasn't as cheap ____ as the Toro and the gas issue was better but the Honda only had 4.5HP.
The Toro bag and how it goes on and off is cheap quality.
The 6.5 HP does a nice job cutting and vacuuming but sucks up a lot of gas.
It's not so much the coat of the gas,it's the constant having to add gas that's a pain in the ____.
Oh and I change the oil twice a year and use Amsoil Formul4-Stroke 10w30/SAE 30Synthetic Small Engine Oil (ASE)
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JTK
$100 Site Donor 2025
Colt, your fuel consumption probably has to do with going from a OHV Honda engine to a flat head briggs or tecumseh. A 6.5hp flat head will use more gasoline.
Joel
Joel
Nope. If you look at the bowl nut, you'll see the hole going from the middle to the bottom is very, very, very tiny. They figured if you starve the machine for gas, it will put out less emissions. Also, the "uptake tube/stem" went to plastic and is seated in rubber "O" rings which means every time you do anything to them, you just about have to replace the "O" rings. Don't confuse the new Techs with the old ones. The old ones are fine machines and will easily outlast the new generation. My personal belief is that Techs close relationship with Craftsman mowers (almost all Craftsmans had Techs a few years ago), made them get lazy. There's a reason there is a $200 (or more) difference between the Tech and Briggs versions of Toro Recyclers.
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