NAPA Gold vs Platinum vs Ultra in Jeep JLU

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I recently upgraded to a Jeep JL from a JK. I used NAPA gold or Fram Ultra in my JK. I just found out that they now make a NAPA platinum for the 3.6 Pentastar. The JK used 5w20 and the JL uses 0w20. Any benefit using the platinum over the Gold or Ultra?
 
Only if you're doing long oci. The platinum has worse filtration vs the gold. But like I said, if run longer oci like 15k +, then go for the platinum. If not, the gold will suffice and the ultra is beloved here on bitog
 
The Platinum is wire-backed, so it won't buckle like just about every Pentastar cartridge posted on here does. Even Fram Ultras come out twisty because the Ultra uses a plastic mesh that isn't strong enough
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But the Napa Platinum does use a steel wire backing, so it should be stronger.

So for your Jeep, or any Pentastar, my oil filter of choice would be the Napa Platinum/Wix XP
 
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
I think I might have missed seeing pics of Ultra media that wasn't strong enough. I sometimes fall asleep reading stuff at BITOG......lol


Here is a recent XG11665 run for 4k
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[Linked Image from iili.io]
 
Lots of cartridge filters get twisted when they are installed and the cap gets torqued on.
 
Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
Lots of cartridge filters get twisted when they are installed and the cap gets torqued on.


I think that's the case. The 3 filters I've done on my 300's Pentastar, including an OEM mopar, came out with a slight twist, as well as whatever filter was in our vans Pentastar.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
Lots of cartridge filters get twisted when they are installed and the cap gets torqued on.

I found that lubing the O-ring on the bottom of the filter, as well as the larger O-ring on the filter housing cap, along with snugging the cap vs. tightening to the torque spec helps reduce the twisting of the filter media a lot. I'm pretty sure it will reduce the odds of cracking the filter housing as well.
 
Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
Lots of cartridge filters get twisted when they are installed and the cap gets torqued on.


Yes Zee I believe you've hit on the main cause of the damaged cartridge filter. My opinion is that its an engineering problem with these filters. But my opinion and a dollar something will buy you a large coffee at 7-11.
 
I've run several Ultras and they twisted, but not as bad as the original Mopar (Purolator) filter did. None of them tore or were compromised, so I don't think the twist is a big deal. I'm currently running a Mobil 1 filter, as I picked up 13 of them for $4 each on Walmart clearance. I'm at almost 5k on this OCI and will run it out to the end of the OLM. It is currently showing 45%, so I'm guessing it will go to 7.5 or 8k and then we'll take a look. I torque my filter cap to the OEM spec, so I am not sure that overtightening is causing the twist.

I did tear apart one of the Ultras and even though they twist, they are assembled VERY strongly. I had to use vice grips to get the pleats to come apart from the end caps and from their polymer mesh. The mesh backing looks alot like monofiliment, but it is very strong. I've heard that the M1 filter in this application is metal backed, but am not sure. Unless someone else knows, I'll tear it apart and will compare the two.

Here are pics of the Ultra torn apart. I'm telling you, that mesh is really strong!



[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
 
I'm on my 4th Pentastar, I haven't had a filter twist on me yet. I mainly run Napa Gold, and a few Platinums mixed in. I always put a film of fresh oil on the top and bottom of filter, and torque the cap to spec.
 
I have a FRAM Ultra in a Pentastar currently running on its second 5k interval. I plan to go three or maybe four, 5k intervals and will pull and post later. In the past I get very little twist if any. Just lube the new oring and snug the cap down.
 
The love for the Fram Ultra here is the Bob hive mind in action. Many people here are afraid to go past 5,000 miles on an oil and filter (another mass hysteria here). It's like people claiming its a 20K filter and by the way is better than some other brand's 20K filter because of XYZ, but they won't dare drive past 5K or 7K themselves in their own cars. Maybe we better play it safe and do 4K. Negates the whole purpose of buying it in the first place. Just look at how very few 20K reports there are in the used oil analysis forum.

I buy NAPA Gold, or Wix, and run them for 10,000 minimum with Castrol Edge EP, and done with it. Longer than that even. I have to remove the skid plate when I change the oil in my Tundra and once a year is plenty. I sleep like a baby. No cutting them open, no agonizing over it, not sending Blackstone my $20 either.

On my Corolla I use conventional oil and $2 Wix jobber filters and yes change it when the annoying dashboard light comes in. The engine on that car will outlast most of us.
 
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