Mobil 1 "V twin" synthetic 20w50
- Thread starter Chris B.
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Good stuff but pricey.
You'd be better off to go with a lower priced, quality oil and change the oil more often. The problem with 6 dollar (and higher) per quart oils is that you need to run them two to three times longer than conventional oils to justify the price.
While the oils may indeed stay in grade, they'll still be full of trash from the engine (and transmission, in your case) after 2000 to 3000 miles.
If I were you, I would do a search of the UOA's here and I think you'll soon see that there really isn't an obvious advantage to the high priced syns when it comes to mitigating wear metals, and even (in some cases) staying in grade.
Dan
While the oils may indeed stay in grade, they'll still be full of trash from the engine (and transmission, in your case) after 2000 to 3000 miles.
If I were you, I would do a search of the UOA's here and I think you'll soon see that there really isn't an obvious advantage to the high priced syns when it comes to mitigating wear metals, and even (in some cases) staying in grade.
Dan
I use the Mobil 1 V-twin and am quite happy with it in my 96 Road King. I think I get better milage. However, I agree with Fuel Tanker Man about using less expensive stuff and changing more often. I doubt that I will continue with the expensive M1 V-Twin stuff after my stash is exhausted...will probably go to Castrol 20W50 or one of the 15W40 deisel dino oils and change every 2,000 or so.
What if I changed the M1 V Twin oil every 2,000 miles? If this oil will stand up to the heat and help keep the bike cooler in city traffic I would gladly pay the extra money for it. It also might help keep the engine cleaner over time.
It's your money! It's not going to hurt it to go with synthetic AND lower mileage OCI's. Besides, it's a motorcycle, not a car. Motorcycles are more like an extension of you as a person, and like the TLC. A car is just something used to get from one place to another. B`)
When I used to run Mobil 1 redcap 15W50 in my 94 Harley Low Rider, I'd change it at 2500 miles, strain it through a screen and pour it into my oil burning 1979 Ford pick up.
When Mobil decided the scam us and re-labeled what amounted to the same motor oil (see VOA's) calling it EP and raising the price a buck a quart, I went back to dino and likely won't change. (search "Havoline and Harley" in the motorcycle UOA's to see why).
Dan
When Mobil decided the scam us and re-labeled what amounted to the same motor oil (see VOA's) calling it EP and raising the price a buck a quart, I went back to dino and likely won't change. (search "Havoline and Harley" in the motorcycle UOA's to see why).
Dan
http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/gma_product.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524448764964&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302290359&ASSORTMENT%3C%3East_id=2534374302290359&bmUID=11528769 42090&bmLocale=en_US
Easy to install yourself. Or see if your selling dealer will give you a deal on the install.
Easy to install yourself. Or see if your selling dealer will give you a deal on the install.
There are many reasons to go with this oil as well as Red Line. Both have a very very high ability to resist oil shearing, which is a real risk with the HD motor.
I would NOT use any dino oil in my HD motor.
I would NOT use any dino oil in my HD motor.
Dave Willet's 87 Tour Glide went a documented 416,000 miles on 20W50 Harley Dino oil.
So...
When a feller has more miles than that (documented) on his HD running synthetic oil, then (and only then) let him come back here and espouse the virtues of synthetic oils in the Harley Davidson engine.
Dan
So...
When a feller has more miles than that (documented) on his HD running synthetic oil, then (and only then) let him come back here and espouse the virtues of synthetic oils in the Harley Davidson engine.
Dan
I have done enough tear downs on racing motorcycle to tell you, use the synthetic oils.Period. The aircooled engines run too hot for dino oils. The cost per quart pales in comparison to the cost per part you will need to buy using inferior oil. Mobil V-Twin, Redline 15-50W, and the Amsoil blends are all good. There is always a time when your bike is going to overheat and the synthetics simply you give better protection when the inevitable occurs.I respect the dino oil guys, but I shamelessly conclude that my 30 years of field experience with all sorts of aircooled motors trumps their well intentioned reasoning.Given the cost per mile of owning and operating a nice Harley engine, paying $7 per quart for the best oil is a sound financial plan.
Chris,
Since the mid 90's I have used Synthetic oils in my Harleys. (5)
None have ever leaked a drop of oil. My 96 softtail that now belongs to a close friend has over 60,000 miles on it. Started using Synthetic in that when it had 600 miles on it. The motor has never been touched other than routine maintenance.
Rest easy Chris your Harley will last you a very long time. Between your oil changes and your nufinish wax it may even out last your camero.
Since the mid 90's I have used Synthetic oils in my Harleys. (5)
None have ever leaked a drop of oil. My 96 softtail that now belongs to a close friend has over 60,000 miles on it. Started using Synthetic in that when it had 600 miles on it. The motor has never been touched other than routine maintenance.
Rest easy Chris your Harley will last you a very long time. Between your oil changes and your nufinish wax it may even out last your camero.
Cool! So at what mileage do you think it is safe to start using synthetic? I have been told to wait several thousand miles and also tostart right away. Which is the best idea?quote:
Originally posted by LC:
Chris,
Since the mid 90's I have used Synthetic oils in my Harleys. (5)
None have ever leaked a drop of oil. My 96 softtail that now belongs to a close friend has over 60,000 miles on it. Started using Synthetic in that when it had 600 miles on it. The motor has never been touched other than routine maintenance.
Rest easy Chris your Harley will last you a very long time. Between your oil changes and your nufinish wax it may even out last your camero.
Theoretically your new engine should consume oil at about one pint per 500 miles. As soon as the oil consumption drops to nearly zero in 500 miles you can switch to synthetic because your rings have seated. Personally I drain the factory fill at one hundred miles, and put in a pint of synthetic and the rest with dino oil for 1500 miles. Then drain and go 100% synthetic. Really, I don't think anybody knows what the "best" solution is, and people get high mileage motors using a lot of different techniques. By the way, I do not mean to come off so pompous as I sounded in the above post
Please forgive me.
My harley stealer told me that synthetic would ruin my motorcycle. I laughed right in his face! Now, bear in mind this was before HD started marketing their own synthetic. I ran mine 500 mile and put in mobil red top 15-50. Change it every 4K mile or so.
I went back to the same stealer after HD came out with their oil and asked the same dude if he remembered our converstation. Of course he did not.
This will be my last HD because of the arrogant and idiots that I had to deal with. I wont go into it but I could write a book about HD stealerships. My next bike will be a Victory Vegas.
I went back to the same stealer after HD came out with their oil and asked the same dude if he remembered our converstation. Of course he did not.
This will be my last HD because of the arrogant and idiots that I had to deal with. I wont go into it but I could write a book about HD stealerships. My next bike will be a Victory Vegas.
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