Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer

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Texas & BWI Area
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Hey Yall, Anyone else here use Lucas Oil Products? I currently use the Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer on 3800 GM Engine w/180k miles mixed with 4qts Mobil 1 10W30. Although the 3800 is an excellent engine by itself i have noticed the Lucas Oil stabilizer to have quieted the lifters and lessen oil burning. I did run the stuff mixed with Royal Purple in the same ratio on my 50k mile Camaro...BUT on the Camaro it crashed my Fuel Economy 4mpg!!!! According to Lucas Oil Tech Support they said my bearings/rings were in new and likely to close to factory tolerances which did not work to well with the heavy viscosity Lucas. Curious Point if anyone has experiance with this stuff. I also use thier ATF Transmission Slip, Power Steering and Fuel Cleaner additives. -Sun
 
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PA
Mobil 1 and the 3800-II doesn't get along well I've found. I've been running the Valvoline products instead and my valves are silent. Many here don't like the valvoline products, for some reason, but I do and really enjoy the fact my 3.8L sounds like a camry 2.4L 4cyl at idle its so quiet [Big Grin]
 
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Hmmm...at least i do not think i have seen any problems running Mobil-1 in our two 3800 Engines. As faras the idle problem maybe next oil change I will try Valvoline synthetic and get back to you. The idle does quiete down at operating temperature...have you at least noticed that? the 3800 is a buttery smooth engine none the less- Sun
 
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Saratoga, NY
outrun rather than running a 10W30 and then pumping it up with an thickener-type additive, why not merely run a heavier oil? Say ... a 10W40 or 15W40? [Confused] I bet you'd get the same effect ... and it would be cheaper as well. --- Bror Jace
 
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st. Louis
I have no experience with Lucas products except to mention that they have recently shown up on the counters of local AutoZone stores. Unless you have at least a tech data sheet, you are only guessing as to how you are modifying your oil. That said Mobil 1 (as well as a few others) could use a bit of thickening. Don't get me wrong, M1 is a great oil. The Mobil 1 xW-30 oils are formulated to the low end of the 30 weight range...a fact that has kept me off of this oil. If you stay with M1, try the 0W-40. Amsoil 10W-30 ATM or Schaeffer's #703 10W-30 are formulated with a bit more viscosity in the 30wt range and would be excellent choices as well.
 
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Evansville, In.
The Lucas is more slippery than regular oil and probably has better shear protection even though it fared the worse on Bob's bearing tests for wear. That's why I'd rather have run 10w30+Lucas rather than 20w50 or 10w40 alone. Those other additives that did better than it were designed to strengthen protection in different ways than Lucas. It's supposed to flow more with the oil rather than clinging to parts. Restore did really well on that test but its designed to cling to parts and not shear down. Thats why it helps old engines run better by using that clinging property to help smooth out worn cylinder wall surfaces. Jason
 
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Indianapolis, IN USA
I have used Lucas for the first time on my last Oil change and it reminds me very much of the STP Oil Treatment I used to use on my cars in the 70's.. [Smile] Just as thick and sticky. I agree, if you lifters get quieter after adding this stuff then I would try a heavier oil in my car. 10W40 would be good to start. Or some have a 5W50 in case you are worried about the low temp viscosity
 

MolaKule

Staff member
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I'd go with Schaeffer's 132 if you need some slight viscosity increase. Bright stock is good for gear oils, but engine oils?
 
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Guys, Believe it or not Amsoil used to use 150 Bright stock in the older ARO 20w-50 racing oil. I don't know how much but it shocked me too.
 
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Canberra ACT Australia
I use Lucas UCL in both our vehicles. I premix it with U.S made FPC (Fuel Performance Catalyst) a fuel burn enhancer and add 200ml to tank before filling with Evo 98 fuel. It's pretty cheap here so must be almost free in the States.
 
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From NORIA:Bright stock -- a heavy residual lubricant stock with low pour point, used in finished blends to provide good bearing film strength, prevent scuffing, and reduce oil consumption. Usually identified by its viscosity, SUS at 210°F or cSt at 100°C. Oil Analysis and Lubrication Dictionary Mark
 

MolaKule

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The base for STP is polyisobutylene, an olefin copolymer. It increases oil viscosity much the same as bright stock, except it leaves very little residue as compared to brightstock.
 
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Ocala, Florida
quote:
Originally posted by SSLoneStar: LUCAS *ROCKS* !! cant be in buisness this long without something working [Wink]
If that's all it takes to be good, then better get ur slick50 out. It's been around longer than lucas. So has stp. They must be doing something right, right? I agree, they are. Amazing how easy it is to sell an additive to a confused public with tv ad's, infomercials, and paying some race car team to post their name on the side of their car. You, my friend are exactly the prime canidate for these ads and like many, have that "feel good" feeling from using such and really fail to understand just how good maybe your existing lubricant is doing the job.
 
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Huntington Beach, CA
Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer API GRAVITY . 26.5 Specific Gravity @60F .8956 Density @ 60F 7.458 Viscosity @ 100C cSt 110,0 Flash Point COC F 425 Color Amber Synergyn Oil Treatment TYPICAL SPECIFICATIONS Viscosity (VK) @ 40 Degrees C 348.7 ASTM D - 445 API Gravity 28.68 ASTM D - 1298 Specific Gravity .08834 ASTM D - 1298 Density Lbs/Gal 7.36 ASTM D - 1298 Flash Point, Degrees F/C 374/190 ASTM D - 92 Pour Point, Degrees F/C 0/-18 ASTM D - IN CRANKCASES - 2 oz. Synergyn Oil Treatment per Quart of Engine Oils IN GEAR, HYDRAULIC, TRANSMISSION AND ALL OTHER SYSTEMS - 1 oz Synergyn Oil Treatment Per Quart of System Oil [ January 08, 2003, 02:02 PM: Message edited by: tenderloin ]
 
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5,069
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Saratoga, NY
I agree with other here who take a dim view on sustained use of STP, Slick-50 and/or Lucas HD Oil Stabilizer. On an older vehicle with some wear, you might be making the best of a less-than-ideal situation, but you would be much better off starting off with a heavier oil if you are changing it. I would only use something like LHDOS in an “emergency” or in lieu of changing the oil and filter ... but then, an oil & filter change is fairly cheap when compared to this stuff ($8 U.S. retail around here) ... and then the engine will almost certainly be better off. [Wink] Perhaps someone can do a little calculation as to an equivalent weight if you started off with 4 quarts of 10W30 and added 1 qt of LHDOS? I'm guessing you would end up with something close to 15W40 or 20W50. Of course, in warm weather, why not simply go with a straight weight? I just picked up some Pennzoil straight 40 for use in our (overtaxed) 10hp John Deere snowblower. [I dont know] mebanditws6: "The Lucas is more slippery than regular oil ..." More slippery? Without friction modifiers? (which should have shown up on a Timken test) I don't see how this could be true. It does have a lot of tackiness/stickyness and is used as a “climbing” additive in gear oils. That may help reduce wear ... but by how much? I think this stuff can only make a serious difference in seriously worn engines with excessive clearances to fill. [Frown] Also, I would think that bright stock would be more shear stable than the polymer-based STP. Someone can correct me if I'm wrong with this statement. Qurestion is, which does a better job at protecting tired, worn engines? A more shear-stable thick goo (LHDOS) or a less stable one with a healthy does of cheap friction modifiers (ZDDP, used in STP)? [Confused] Anyway, I can't see paying $8 per quart for LHDOS. [SPAZ!] Can someone familiar with inner petro-chemical cost structures tell us whether $8 per quart retail is a fair price to pay for bright stock? I always wondered about this. [Confused] SSLoneStar, I agree with the Bobster, there are a lot of companies which have stayed in business selling products that aren’t exactly too useful. Again, I think LHDOS has it’s use but I think the way Lucas markets it (as a general purpose additive for all kinds of high-performance) is wrong. This is why outrun didn’t have good results with it in his newer car. Classic misapplication. I’m not familiar with their UCL, but I’d offer an educated guess that their auto transmission additive is merely a friction enhancer like limited slip differential additives sold by many companies. Again, it has it’s use in a tranny on its last legs (slipping bands) but is not really necessary in a properly functioning unit. --- Bror Jace
 

MolaKule

Staff member
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"Also, I would think that bright stock would be more shear stable than the polymer-based STP. Someone can correct me if I'm wrong with this statement. Qurestion is, which does a better job at protecting tired, worn engines? A more shear-stable thick goo (LHDOS) or a less stable one with a healthy does of cheap friction modifiers (ZDDP, used in STP)? " Bright stock is more shear stable, but with it's low VI, it would thin down in viscosity much earlier than would a polymethylacrylate OCP and polyisobutylenes (PIB)." Bright stock would leave heavy carbon deposits upon combustion, whereas PIB's leave very little residue. "Anyway, I can't see paying $8 per quart for LHDOS. Can someone familiar with inner petro-chemical cost structures tell us whether $8 per quart retail is a fair price to pay for bright stock? I always wondered about this. " Bright stock runs about 1.5 to 3 times the cost of 150N mineral oil. At approx. $0.38/qt for 150N mineral oil, bright stock should cost about $1.15/qt max. These prices are for non-additive virgin oils, of course. [ January 08, 2003, 04:26 PM: Message edited by: MolaKule ]
 
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