LC20 for VW 1.8tsi

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780
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Palatine IL
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Been away for quite some time but recently got an VW Alltrack. Still an awesome site. Planned on using a 502 oil and calling it a day. I have used LC20 in the past but it's seemed to have fallen out of favor here. I get that oils are better now, especially those rated for this use but here's the thing. Some knowledgeable techs recommend a 5k oils change instead of the factory recommended 10k OCI. Not because the oil is done but to because the engine makes a lot of carbon that can wear the timing chain and tensioner. For those in the know, is this still the case? What do think about LC20 with a 10k change if TBN hols up? LC20 dissolving carbon in the oil to a nonabrasive size could just be the trick for this. Also, it would get mighty hot around the turbo. Shouldn't be a big issue for a LC20 mixed in the oil but could vaporize it more quickly with whatever comes with that.
 
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2,299
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Pennsylvania
I have a 2017 All Track, use Castrol Professional 5W-40 and change every 5000 miles. My attitude is for a few extra dollars, why play around with turbo longevity and risk an issue.
 
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780
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Palatine IL
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My thinking was the same but there's good reason to try and extend, both environmental and $. It's also not the turbo that seems at issue here. How you liking your Alltrack? I'm surprisingly satisfied with it. After run in, I've been using custom driving mode with sport steering and economy ECU for everyday use. Got 27mpg 1st tank after run in. This fill is looking even better. The DSG is geared a little low for great highway mileage but a pleasure to drive both mundane and quickly when desired. Dealers are giving them away around here.
 
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2,226
Location
utah
Grats on the All Track, great vehicle. For my sportwagen i just do cheap 0W40 mobil 1 every 5k miles. I highly doubt it will need anything better than that as far as oil lubricated parts go. I figure the car will succumb to worn out interior, VW electrical problems, or even EV Superiority before the oil lubricated parts wear out.
 
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34,437
Location
NY
Originally Posted by goodvibes
Been away for quite some time but recently got an VW Alltrack. Still an awesome site. Planned on using a 502 oil and calling it a day. I have used LC20 in the past but it's seemed to have fallen out of favor here. I get that oils are better now, especially those rated for this use but here's the thing. Some knowledgeable techs recommend a 5k oils change instead of the factory recommended 10k OCI. Not because the oil is done but to because the engine makes a lot of carbon that can wear the timing chain and tensioner. For those in the know, is this still the case? What do think about LC20 with a 10k change if TBN hols up? LC20 dissolving carbon in the oil to a nonabrasive size could just be the trick for this. Also, it would get mighty hot around the turbo. Shouldn't be a big issue for a LC20 mixed in the oil but could vaporize it more quickly with whatever comes with that.
I'd stick with the shorter OCI, and recycle the oil. If those techs are in fact correct, to me the extra money spent on the shorter OCI vs. having parts failing because I saved money stretching the OCI seems like a losing proposition.
 
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858
Location
Alberta
I do 5k changes on my ecoboost twin turbo truck. A change with castrol 0w40 costs me around $42Cdn (what's that, $1.50US these days? LOL ) with filter (buy the oil on sale and filters in bulk from rockauto). Honestly, for the cost of 1/2 of a tank of gas (36 gallon tank), why risk chain wear and a timing replacement. I would think the same logic applies to the alltrack.
 

JAG

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5,320
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Fredericksburg, VA
I had a 2003 VW 1.8T and sold it with a little over 200k miles. Based on everything I believe, I would do no longer than 5k mike OCIs using something like Castrol 0W-40, Mobil 1 0W-40, or perhaps Red Line or Amsoil or Ravenol. I would not use LC20 because it certainly detracts from some motor oil's functions/attributes, however slightly, while only possibly enhancing one or more others. The manufacturer claims antioxidancy and carbon dissolution. I'm not convinced that it provides improvement in those areas. For what it's worth, I'll point out that I did use LC20 in my varnished VW 1.8T and it did not remove the varnish. Even 5k mile OCIs with mostly oils with VW 502 and MB 229.5 approval did not prevent varnish. The complex and expensive PCV system clogged up twice while I owned it. $500 replacement the first time and the second time I took it all apart and cleaned it as best as I could which was not perfect because those deposits were so stubborn.
 

MolaKule

Staff member
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Iowegia - USA
Once varnish has been baked-on inside the engine it is a tough deposit to remove. In an AT varnish can cause solenoid and valve sticking so it can be problematic, but most varnish is deposited because of insufficient OCI's and overheating. How many engine failures have been attributed to varnish? How many engine failures have been attributed to sludge and hard carbon? Some baked and caked deposits on engine components simply have to be removed and soaked in a strong solvent when there is no direct contact with or pressurized flow of oil for wash. For removal of carbon in VVT valves, I can attest to Rislone Engine Oil additive treatment (cleaner) in a pinch. However, I would not add either LC20 or Rislone Engine Oil additive to engine oil in a Turbo, but rather change oil and filter frequently using at least a Severe Service schedule for OCI's.
 
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780
Location
Palatine IL
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Thanks guys. My guess is I'll put about 12k mi per year on it now that my work schedule is reduced. Think I'll due do spring and fall changes and call it a day. I know there's no consensus but how about 1st oil change. Would you do 2k after most of high has come off or wait for the 5k.
 
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MolaKule

Staff member
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Iowegia - USA
I make my 1st oil and filter change at 500 miles for an engine and 10,000 miles for an ATF or MT and have had good longevity in engines and transmissions with this procedure.
 
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NY
Originally Posted by MolaKule
I make my 1st oil and filter change at 500 miles for an engine and 10,000 miles for an ATF or MT and have had good longevity in engines and transmissions with this procedure.
thumbsup
 
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780
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Palatine IL
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Took the advice here and did the 1st change early. Already had 2k on the car so that's when it happened. I did break it in easy for the 1st 1k+ and then wound it out a few times before this change. Used M1 0w40 because it was easy and will change about every 6k (spring and fall) with no adds. Thanks guys. What's odd is that the motor already felt like the factory fill was thinning. I got that oil change making it smoother feel you get with used Dino shearing but I sure didn't expect it to happen by 2k with the factory synth fill, especially with M1 0w40 which is a light 40. Maybe fuel dilution from the rings not tight yet etc. but I spend 40 minutes on the highway at 2800 rpm 3 days a week so would expect that to burn off if that's the case and it had about 1500 miles before it felt like it might be thinning. Much can be imagined so I'll see how I feel about this fill over time.
 
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642
Location
Richmond, VA area
Love my Golf Sportwagen 4Mo 1.8 - same as your Alltrack just no lift/cladding. Doing ~7K OCIs on Liquimoly 5W40 and just tired some of their Ceratec. I'm also tuned (Unitronic Stage 1+) and last OCI showed no drama (plenty of additive and no fuel dilution to mention) to take it past 7K.
 
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642
Location
Richmond, VA area
Originally Posted by goodvibes
Thanks guys. My guess is I'll put about 12k mi per year on it now that my work schedule is reduced. Think I'll due do spring and fall changes and call it a day. I know there's no consensus but how about 1st oil change. Would you do 2k after most of high has come off or wait for the 5k.
No, I just do my first at the same interval I do the rest...about 7.5K jut to match it to the tire rotations. For every person that does early first changes, there are a lot more that don't that run their vehicles for a long time with no issue. Mine is tuned and I send it regularly and just do the normal OCIs.
 
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702
Location
Bismarck, ND
I have a 2017 alltrack SEL (no pano roof leak yet) and am running castrol 0w40. I do use LC in all my other cars but the euro oil is so "beefy" already that I decided no to use LC in it. I was amazed at my first oil change when I emptied the used oil from the extractor how it clung to the sides and darkened the plastic. Never saw that with any of my other cars.
 
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