Rislone is safe if used in the percentage indicated on the label, but probably not really gonna do anything.
Kohler command 23 oil consumption
- Thread starter gasman556
- Start date
This makes me feel “better” about them adding it at least. He definitely didn’t add too much per what he said.
I too don’t think it’s going to solve the problem. I’m thinking either valve cover gasket, head gasket, or crank shaft leak. Only one of which doesn’t require significant tear down to fix. Great.
Any other thoughts or links would be appreciated. Thanks again.
Unfortunately none of those issues are going to cause one cylinder to be down 20psi or rapidly darken your oil
I would pull the cover off, and make sure fluffy the rat has not build a nest on the cooling fins, that can overheat that cylinder and kill the rings and cook the oil, eventually the head gasket.
I run 15w40 in my zero turn.
I run 15w40 in my zero turn.
Stuck rings? What else?
This is possible. I’m guessing this thing is going to need some serious TLC before whatever is going on is solved. I’ve got feral cats around and they’ve done a great job knocking down the mice population around me. But yes, this is a good idea. Thanks.
1/2 VRP 5w30 and 1/2 HPL 40 Engine Cleaner (it has an add pack) to up your viscosity a bit. and maybe a "BG piston soak" before this.
Try Redline Performance (Ester) 5W-40 Euro or 5W-50. That's what unjammed my Hyundai's bad jammed piston rings before VRP was around.
https://www.redlineoil.com/euro-series-5w40-motor-oil
https://www.redlineoil.com/15w50-motor-oil
Edit: just saw the cylinder PSI issue.
Busted ring???? = black oil. I don't see the head gasket darkening the oil. Busted ring/s or jammed rings = black oil.
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This is the first known BITOG HPL failure. Should've run @Pablo favorite juice the whole time. 
In all seriousness, how about a leakdown test as that tells a much better story IMO than compression. It's odd that 50 hr OCI would stick a ring regardless of oil used. Do you happen to use regular gas as opposed to ethanol free?
In all seriousness, how about a leakdown test as that tells a much better story IMO than compression. It's odd that 50 hr OCI would stick a ring regardless of oil used. Do you happen to use regular gas as opposed to ethanol free?
Stuck or damaged rings (FOD or overheat), scuffed piston, scuffed bore. IMO this is a cylinder sealing issue since you're consuming oil now, are darkening your oil quickly and are down some PSI in the compression test. Another poster suggested a leak down test which is a good idea but it will most likely only confirm that it's leaking into the cylinder. Definitely pull the shroud and look for mouse nests or other debris on the cylinders - it's a common cause for your issues.
Definitely NOT oil selection related!!! hahahahaThis is the first known BITOG HPL failure. Should've run @Pablo favorite juice the whole time.
In all seriousness, how about a leakdown test as that tells a much better story IMO than compression. It's odd that 50 hr OCI would stick a ring regardless of oil used. Do you happen to use regular gas as opposed to ethanol free?
I don't have equipment needed for a leakdown test. Yes, almost always regular gasoline (BP) with some ethanol free stuff used intermittently when it's time to cycle through appropriately stored ethanol free fuel (PRI-G additive used, well within date).
Always stored in a barn/garage. It's old, but I'm disappointed nonetheless. Anways, thanks for this. Any suggested good value tools for a leakdown test/GOOD how to videos? I've never done it before.
Just a leak down gauge set - they can be had a Harbor Freight, an air compressor and whatever socket needed to pull the spark plug. Put the engine at TDC on that cylinder and fill it with air. The first gauge reads what you're putting in (usually 100psi) and the second reads the air staying in. So if you're putting in 100 and have 80 on the other gauge, you have 20% leak down, which isn't terrible, but 5 or 10 is for sure more desirable.
But honestly just pull the shroud if you're capable. That is free, easy and if you find a nest or other debris will confirm the need for further repairs.
Thanks again for all of your replies. I'm going to degrease the h*ll out of this thing to see if I can see an obvious source of the leaking. I did notice what I think is a bit louder of valve clattering when I picked it up from the mower's first stop. But at this point, I'm thinking I am starting to doubt my hypercritical senses. I've got an appointment with another guy in a couple weeks in case I can't see wherever this joker's leaking.
back side of the valve cover with the black threads/tip. There’s some cream colored reside at the down side of the valve cover. I’m wondering if crankcase breather is a good place to start? I’ve gone through a couple bottles of brake clean cleaning the outside of the engine. Thanks again.
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