Kitchen floor space between sub floor be filled?

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794
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NJ
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I'm putting in new kitchen cabinets and had to pull up some of the sub flooring under the sink and dishwasher plus a little. I had planned to put down vinyl planking directly over everything. The old floor is almost level with the new except for 1/32" ? 1/64" ? difference. I did my best to make a straight and accurate cut but there are minor gaps as you see in the picture. I really don't want to put down Luan plywood on the whole floor as an overlay. The gaps you see in the sub flooring will be under the cabinets or stove except for where you see the pencil, along there for about 8', your toes and feet will be. Can I pay the padded on the back of the vinyl planking over these cracks or should I fill in? And with what? I have Easy Sand 45 and Thinset.

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102
Location
WA
It totally depends on the exact flooring product you use, some rigid flooring may move over time. Rigid will span the gaps, but if the floor is uneven use self leaving flooring compound under it. On my last remodel I used luan in two rooms under the flexible vinyl, and self leveling compound on a few areas under the rigid. Both turned out great and there is no distortion migrating through to the surface.
 
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7,663
Location
MI
I'll share a few of my lessons learned (mistakes) about 1/4 inch underlayment that Demarpaint linked to. - For a glued down vinyl floor, my flooring store sold me CHEAP 4 x 8 luan underlayment which had dyes that migrated thru the adhesive and discolored the flooring about 5 years later. Too late to attempt some kind of warranty claim. Use a quality job specific underlayment available in 4 x4 and 4 x 8 such as this: https://hw.menardc.com/main/items/m...yWarrantyandInstallationInstructions.pdf It's pre marked for the fasteners and has no internal voids (denting) - For fastening down the underlayment, don't use ring shank underlayment nails. From contraction/movement, I had nail heads that telegraphed into the flooring that became an eyesore. Rent an underlayment stapler (manual or powered). The staples are glue coated and they countersink into the plywood. Manual Stapler (cheap to rent) .......................................................................................................................................Countersunk staples don't show through the floor [Linked Image from wirtzrentals.com] [Linked Image from renovation-headquarters.com] Just my 2 cents from my experience and school of hard knocks. Don't cut corners.
 
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1,248
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USA
Try Fixall I have used it to level, fill gaps, and it's good stuff. Becomes as hard as wood. Comes as powder, get at hardware store or home center. There is also concrete Fixall which is good too.
 
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794
Location
NJ
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The vinyl planking she wants to buy has a rubber backing and it's flexible, you can bend it, you pick up one end and the other end bends to the floor. The vinyl planking will be floating as it is a click system. Most of the floor is adhesive backed vinyl squares except under the refrigerator, stove, sink, dishwasher. I pulled off the top vinyl squares which were over Luan fastened with staples, on top of that was indoor outdoor carpet we had laid years ago. I have a 150psi, 4.5cfm @ 90psi compressor with nail guns for studs, 16 & 18 gauge, and a combo pin nailer/stapler if I need to go the Luan route, which I don't think, other than possibly filling the crack space. The floor is level other than a very very very slight edge and space at the edge of the cabinets where your feet would go.
 
Messages
794
Location
NJ
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Originally Posted by Farnsworth
Try Fixall I have used it to level, fill gaps, and it's good stuff. Becomes as hard as wood. Comes as powder, get at hardware store or home center. There is also concrete Fixall which is good too.
I've discovered through Custom Building Products they sold Fix-It-All to Tex-Rite. CBS retained the rights to sell it in California only and Tex-Rite sells Fit-It-All in only TX, NM, AZ areas. Other suggestions? How would CBS thinset or Easy-Sand 45 work?
 
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