I`ve had K&N filter on my last 3 cars, two of them were open filters setup while the one i have now is a direct replacement filter. I like them, i do like the idea of less air restriction and more powerfull engine 
Keep K&N or NOT ?
- Thread starter SubeeTedII
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Wear resistant.
Wear resistant.
Have you ever optically polished aluminum with loose abrasives? Or is it still about being https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/opinionated
I have, lots of it. So I know what it actually works like not just think I know.
wemay
Site Donor 2023
This is now officially the "herpes thread" It calms for a while then flares up with little notice.
Exactly as planned....
I have polished aluminum, and it's soft and very easily abraded ... and it's certainly not "wear resistant" as you claim.
Have you ever tore down an engine and looked at the wear patterns on piston skirts?
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Polished how, what was the process? It takes a lot of piston movement in dirty oil to show wear, doesn't it. How many miles of up and down does a piston travel in say 50K? So it is wear resistant. Not wear proof, but probably close if oil is maintained well.
Aluminum parts are softer than cast iron and are moe prone to wear. You can remove aluminum material easily with something as gental as super fine metal polish. Piston skirts wear more than other parts in an ICE. How many miles a piston travels up/down in 50K miles depends on many factors when you think about it.
If you read my posts you saw optical polishing. Buffing with metal polish is nothing. It makes it shiny to the eye. I am talking about grinding with particles in suspension, and achieving a matte flat finish to the edges. Going down the grits from 30, 15, 9, and 5 micron keeping the flatness. This takes off very little material. Optical polishing then starts with a 1 micron pre polish then the hard part, the optically flat and smooth surface polish. It's very tricky and it took a process. I used pitch of different kinds with alumina abrasives and adjusting the ph. Or Syton on special hard pads. It is exremely difficult becaue it scratches so easily with any contamination. Flatness and surface quality inder a microspe must be maintained. Flatness measured in fractions of wavelengths of light. It gets much harder when the piece needs to be accurate in dimensions as well, so the final polish comes in exactly at the dimension to whatever tolerance.
So with all that I think you should be able to say I am correct, for once, that aluminum is wear resistant. It also is used for cam bearings where the cam is iron, and other places, so maybe it is easier for you to admit it. The fact they make pistons from aluminum alloys to run inside an engine tells you something about wear resistance.
Here is a test for you, get a flat piece of aluminum, not micron flat like optical polishing requires but homeowner flat. Measure it with a micrometer, then rub it with your metal polish on your rag and measure it again.
Another tidbit is you do know diamonds can be cut with a copper disk don't you? The diamond atoms embed and the copper is just a carrier. Al does the same thing.
The question was is aluminum wear resistant, and the answer is yes. I didn't say compared to anything else, but it is very wear resistant actually. I only respond here and ruin the thread because you did this.
. I was going to let it go and be the better man, but decided no not going to let it happen this time.Quote 1
Quote 2
Quote 1 and 2 contradict each other ...
And contamination/debris in the oil can cause damage much easier to the aluminum part vs the cast iron part when it gets between the rubbing parts.
... sure.
Quote 2
Quote 1 and 2 contradict each other ...
And contamination/debris in the oil can cause damage much easier to the aluminum part vs the cast iron part when it gets between the rubbing parts.
The question was is aluminum wear resistant, and the answer is yes. I didn't say compared to anything else, but it is very wear resistant actually. I only respond here and ruin the thread because you did this.
... sure.Screw plodding through 14 pages worth of posts!
The K&N style filter was great for racing 2-cycle motors. Who cares if you eat up the rings and scar the cylinders? Pop the head, pull the jug, hone the cylinder, drop in a new set a rings and badda-boom badda-bing in no time for little change youse back in biz.
Put a STP sticker on a window and feel good about the same amount of HP improvement without taking it out on your engine.
What did your engine ever do to you?
I'd wrap four alternating layers of chicken wire, if I wished to sand the internals, before I'd actually pay for a K&N. If the kewl factor means that much to ya there's K&N stickers for sale, Free Shipping!!!, on the bay. As time marches on you will realize the error of your ways und thank gawd the only down side, other than embarrassment, was peeling off the sticker . . .
The K&N style filter was great for racing 2-cycle motors. Who cares if you eat up the rings and scar the cylinders? Pop the head, pull the jug, hone the cylinder, drop in a new set a rings and badda-boom badda-bing in no time for little change youse back in biz.
Put a STP sticker on a window and feel good about the same amount of HP improvement without taking it out on your engine.
What did your engine ever do to you?
I'd wrap four alternating layers of chicken wire, if I wished to sand the internals, before I'd actually pay for a K&N. If the kewl factor means that much to ya there's K&N stickers for sale, Free Shipping!!!, on the bay. As time marches on you will realize the error of your ways und thank gawd the only down side, other than embarrassment, was peeling off the sticker . . .
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AutoMechanic
Site Donor 2024
I’d go with K&N over stock any day but that’s just me.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
May I ask why? On a typical stock engine you are doing nothing more than creating more noise at the cost of poorer filtration. On specific applications like the modified setup @TiGeo operates, there can be at least a performance trade-off; a benefit where the lower filtration performance is offset by an increase in power, but this is not the case with a typical stock setup.
AutoMechanic
Site Donor 2024
I just always prefer K&N they are very high quality and do better in my opinion. I mean it’s hard to mess up an air filter but I just prefer to have better filtration. I haven’t noticed any additional noise with the K&N.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
But they don't have better filtration, they have demonstrably poorer filtration.
Go back to this post in the thread:
Keep K&N or NOT ?
Originally Posted by TiGeo You mean by ~3% less than a paper filter? Did you ever bother reading the actual report that graphic that you so proudly posted come from? Here's a mirrored copy at Nicoclub: https://www.nicoclub.com/archives/kn-vs-oem-filter.html You also left out the graphics that...
bobistheoilguy.com
My response:
OVERKILL said:
I think in the previous 14 pages there's probably some mention of how they're considered bad now because the oil from the filter will end up coating the MAF so you end up with drivability problems later so a regular plain air filter is better. Maybe it was better when you just had more basic engines with a carb.
AutoMechanic
Site Donor 2024
Never had that experience but that’s interesting. I usually replace them instead of cleaning them too. We see a number of filters that are K&N that come in none of them look majorly dirty as it was saying it is a short period of time for it to get dirty. I thought that they were paper just colored and covered with wire.
AutoMechanic
Site Donor 2024
Almost all my cars are carb lol but just from my experience they are better than just a paper one. What type of oil would a filter have in it is my question.
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