is a larger alternator a no brainer?

The Stanley Simple Start Portable Battery Booster for $79 at Amazon is designed to plug into the 12 Volt cigarette lighter style socket of vehicles and charge the battery for 10 to 15 minutes to get a discharged battery charged up enough to start the vehicle. It might be useful to add a charge to the OP vehicle once a week or so.

It is powered by a battery inside of it, so if running a power cord to the vehicle is a problem this could be useful. Check out the Youtube videos of it being used.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by ripcord
Originally Posted by JimPghPA
He could run the engine for 20 to 30 minutes before he gets in the vehicle to both pre-heat the inside of the cab and charge the battery.


If the battery is significantly run down, it could take several hours or more for the battery to charge up. Twenty or thirty minutes extra time would be beneficial, but not enough to recharge an already low battery. That's due to the chemistry of lead acid batteries, not the output of the alternator.

If this was my car and I lived in the Great White North, I would seriously consider installing both a block heater and a battery tender and plugging it in overnight. The battery would be a lot happier and it could reduce the negative effects of short trips.


I live in southern New England and store our vehicles in an unheated, attached garage, but still plan to install block heaters on both of my Subies when the coolant is due to be changed in a couple of years. I'll have it plugged into a smart plug, so I can control when it turns on and off before I drive. E.g., the time will be set, but I can turn it off in the morning, if I'm home sick, say.

At least for our FXT, the cold KILLS MPG's in the winter. There are weeks when it's hard to achieve >20MPG, whereas it's easy to get ~25 in the summer. I'm not saying I'll get 25 in the winter with a block heater due to cold EVERYTHING else, but it warrants the price of a block heater to try.
 
Originally Posted by gathermewool

At least for our FXT, the cold KILLS MPG's in the winter. There are weeks when it's hard to achieve >20MPG, whereas it's easy to get ~25 in the summer. I'm not saying I'll get 25 in the winter with a block heater due to cold EVERYTHING else, but it warrants the price of a block heater to try.


A little OT, but I wouldn't expect a huge bump in winter fuel economy with a block heater. It may help a little, but I wouldn't expect a big difference for several reasons:

Rain and snow cause extra drag on the wheels. Winter gas formulations contain about 2% less energy than summer. Cold winter air is denser so it has a higher O2 content per volume so the ECU has to inject more fuel to maintain a proper fuel/air ratio. More viscus engine, gear, and transmission oil. Probably some others I'm forgetting...

I typically see 20% lower fuel economy when the temps fall below freezing.
 
Originally Posted by supton
Originally Posted by Imp4
Originally Posted by supton
2 to 3 minutes of driving? Is that like 5 minutes of walking? Seems like a very short distance to bother with driving.

OP is from Alberta, Canada but doesn't state where.
Wintertime temps regularly get into the below 0°F range in that locale.
I'd prefer to drive just to stay out of the wind in those conditions...

Fair enough--but that's not every day conditions. Surely there are many days where walking is an option. Rainy days, not so much, but shave a few days of the week off and it's all the easier on the vehicle in question.

Not my decision to make, just tossing out the concept. Sometimes possible solutions get overlooked.

I'll agree with you there. If the weather permits, biking or walking is a great choice.
Saves cash, keeps the old ticker moving.
Seems like a win/win when conditions are right.
cheers3.gif
 
I use a HF 1/2 amp floater to keep the Rat's bat topped off. It last moved a month ago. I have 2 . I use the other for the mowers 5$ each. As said, the hard part is remembering to use it. Thanks for the reminder.
grin2.gif
 
Originally Posted by Ded Mazai
The battery gets charged at a certain level of voltage no matter how powerful your alternator is. As an alternative you can get an AGM battery. AGM batteries can be charged at a lower voltage and at a lower ambient temperature. My lead-acid battery is charged only to 65% level if I don't charge it manually and I drive more then you. Low level of charge kills lead-acid batteries quickly.


Ohm's law says that the battery will get charged at a certain level based upon its resistance. The combination of alternator design, wiring ratings, and battery resistance will determine if a bigger alternator can help. Alternators are rated for output at some elevated RPM, so IF the alternator is limiting, sometimes a larger alternator can help if it puts out more current and voltage at idle/low RPMs.

OP, you need to determine if your alternator is a limiting factor. Id get a DC amp clamp and see. If its cold and the battery is only accepting 10 or 20A, it might be a moot point. From there, you need to see what the alternator can/is supposed to be putting out at low speeds and idle. From there you can make a decision...

Always smart to check for clean connections and grounds...

Originally Posted by ripcord
Originally Posted by JimPghPA
He could run the engine for 20 to 30 minutes before he gets in the vehicle to both pre-heat the inside of the cab and charge the battery.


If the battery is significantly run down, it could take several hours or more for the battery to charge up. Twenty or thirty minutes extra time would be beneficial, but not enough to recharge an already low battery. That's due to the chemistry of lead acid batteries, not the output of the alternator.

If this was my car and I lived in the Great White North, I would seriously consider installing both a block heater and a battery tender and plugging it in overnight. The battery would be a lot happier and it could reduce the negative effects of short trips.


Agree with this. The charge of a battery at the upper end is an exponential decay , so it decays and takes forever to truly get to the top..

Full charge is generally defined as a very small percentage of the Ah rating of the battery, at a certain voltage.

Idling an engine endlessly is a waste.
 
I'd get a battery tender that bolts up to the battery and plug it in every night. A block heater if you don't have one already would certainly help too. Drive on.

X2 on getting some good highway action though.
 
Back
Top