Gentlemen I have a 68 Torino (nice) running the original 302 block equipped as follows--0.060 over with TRW forged pistons,Hastings rings, full Edelbrock equipped, heads, manifold, 600 Cfm carb,218/228 cam with 114 deg. LSA, headers, balanced and dual point dizzy. The compression is excellent and the engine has been using M1 10-30 and Redline SI-1 from original start-up. I had occasion to remove the intake today (after approx. 9000 mi.). I checked ALL of the intake valves with a scope and was a bit underwhelmed. The deposits are less than one would expect with straight gasoline but still present. The guides show no apparent oil seepage and the lifter valley was'nt passing oil. The deposits are concentrated on the underside of the valves and average about 1/16-3/32 in. thick and are very hard. I am a bit anal about intake valve deposits and will continue to use some additive. I don't know if I will stick with Redline. Best regards. John--Las Vegas.
Intake valve deposits
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i think its a thing typical to those era and type of engines. i have a 76 elite (luxury torino) with a 400cid big block and the intake valves were carboned up when i checked them out while doing a head gasket changeout.
a wire wheel cleaned mine right up, but i doubt any additives will get rid of the deposits. they are a byprodust of those kind of engines. nothing you can really do to avoid it.
a wire wheel cleaned mine right up, but i doubt any additives will get rid of the deposits. they are a byprodust of those kind of engines. nothing you can really do to avoid it.
Unless you're set on using SI-1, I'd recommend Gumout Regane.
It's their most powerful product and has worked great for myself and others...
It's their most powerful product and has worked great for myself and others...
what kind of gas are you using?
Thanx for the comments Gents. Yes,I have heard good things about Regane. I'm going to experiment with it on some small amounts of the deposits. I generally use Chevron gasoline in the Torino. All of the gasoline in this area comes from one source. Chevron supposedly adds small amounts of Techron to the tankers. I have also considered FP, but have no specific input on how effective it is on the valve deposits. Generally, the deposits are caused by inexpensive injector cleaners---those cleaners mandated by Fed. regulations. These cheap cleaners are a bit useful for injectors but really deposit out on the intakes. Neither one of my cars (68 Torino/67 Mustang) have ANY electronics or injectors so it is a moot point. Regards---John.
John,
Here's a PDS and TIB on Regane:
http://www.pzlqs.com/Tech/Bulletin/DomesticMarketing/ProductApplications/pdf/p25a.pdf
http://www.pzlqs.com/Tech/Pdsheet/Gumout/pdf/Regane.pdf
Here's a PDS and TIB on Regane:
http://www.pzlqs.com/Tech/Bulletin/DomesticMarketing/ProductApplications/pdf/p25a.pdf
http://www.pzlqs.com/Tech/Pdsheet/Gumout/pdf/Regane.pdf
Regane is just simply fantastic, have been using it on my diesel as well as gasoline engines with great results. Years back, I unfortunately had to get gas from a seedy pump and as luck would have it, the gas turned out to have good amount of water leading to massive problems. Dropped in a bottle of Regane and everything was back to normal in a matter of miles. The best part is that Regane works with gas and diesel, removes injector deposits as well as cleans your tank.
The valves on my '95 Mustang 5.0 looked spotless when I removed the manifold last year. This was a 90k mile engine that was served a steady diet of Fuel Power (1 oz per 5 gallons) for 3 months prior to teardown.
Thanx Gents I will add FP to my tests. John---Las Vegas
Might be oil vapors being drawn thru the PCV valve (if equipped...should be) and attatching to the intake valves. Can't blame it on an EGR valve!
I know Fords tend to run a hefty amount of PCV vacuum especially at idle and even more so if a Fram PCV valve is used. Try a genuine Motorcraft PCV and see if that helps.
I remember many old 302s that if you put your thumb over the breather tube it would suck it right down. Almost every one had a Fram PCV valve in it.
The PCV is the leading cause of death in 302 EFI truck engines too. The oily vapors knock out #8 cylinder unless the update has been performed relocating the vacuum hose. Most people that know Fords know about this.
Might be something to investigate.
I know Fords tend to run a hefty amount of PCV vacuum especially at idle and even more so if a Fram PCV valve is used. Try a genuine Motorcraft PCV and see if that helps.
I remember many old 302s that if you put your thumb over the breather tube it would suck it right down. Almost every one had a Fram PCV valve in it.
The PCV is the leading cause of death in 302 EFI truck engines too. The oily vapors knock out #8 cylinder unless the update has been performed relocating the vacuum hose. Most people that know Fords know about this.
Might be something to investigate.
It does have a Fram PCV valve. I always was a bit suspicious of same. I'll pull it off and compare with a Motorcraft. Thanx. John--Las Vegas.
Thank you for your detailed reply. All of the posts were most informative. BTW--I lived in DeSoto at one time. Regards. John---Las Vegas.
Recently let go of two cars with oem drivetrains: 1971 Chrysler V8-383 4V and 1979 Ford I6-200 changed to progressive 2V.
FUEL POWER was an enormous help in keeping them in good tune. Both had carburetors and distributors retuned to deliver best fuel efficency/power curve (like a non-smog engine which these had become; but both retained exhuast heat [to carb intake and crossover on V8]and EGR) with the low potential of todays gasoline. Both ran 195F thermostats, had AC, and were used in daily driving.
FP kept idle smoothed, and, as observed, varnish was kept down on both engines (ARX was also used on Ford). No longer needed to richen low idle circuits due to extra-hot/cold weather, and idle speed was kept down as well. Ignition advance was allowed to come in sooner as well.
Heads were pulled on 383 at 99k to decarbon and install new valve seals, and FP was used for about 6k prior to sale. Car was started once in last year of operation, and, fired off on 5-7 revolutions (even though cold choke was inoperable). Warmed up easily. Would not do so well without FP. Also kept idle smooth after 70+ mph runs in 100F weather when off highway at stoplight; versus a bit of roughness for the 8-9 years prior. Pulled a plug a few months back and was a LOT cleaner than previous to FP use.
Chrysler 383 was pre-ignition prone even on 93-octane (c/r was around 9:1, but pistons WAAAY down in the hole), and FP helped keep this problem in check along with judicious, painstakingly small fuel/advance changes. That car got 12-14 mpg city, and 17-19 highway . . not bad for a vehicle weighing in at just under 5000#, longer and wider than a Suburban. (Stock cam was .425/.435).
I could not recommend FUEL POWER more strongly for any non-computer car. And, yes, I have tried all the other stuff out there for 35-years. Use what you will in addition, but keep FP in there!
FUEL POWER was an enormous help in keeping them in good tune. Both had carburetors and distributors retuned to deliver best fuel efficency/power curve (like a non-smog engine which these had become; but both retained exhuast heat [to carb intake and crossover on V8]and EGR) with the low potential of todays gasoline. Both ran 195F thermostats, had AC, and were used in daily driving.
FP kept idle smoothed, and, as observed, varnish was kept down on both engines (ARX was also used on Ford). No longer needed to richen low idle circuits due to extra-hot/cold weather, and idle speed was kept down as well. Ignition advance was allowed to come in sooner as well.
Heads were pulled on 383 at 99k to decarbon and install new valve seals, and FP was used for about 6k prior to sale. Car was started once in last year of operation, and, fired off on 5-7 revolutions (even though cold choke was inoperable). Warmed up easily. Would not do so well without FP. Also kept idle smooth after 70+ mph runs in 100F weather when off highway at stoplight; versus a bit of roughness for the 8-9 years prior. Pulled a plug a few months back and was a LOT cleaner than previous to FP use.
Chrysler 383 was pre-ignition prone even on 93-octane (c/r was around 9:1, but pistons WAAAY down in the hole), and FP helped keep this problem in check along with judicious, painstakingly small fuel/advance changes. That car got 12-14 mpg city, and 17-19 highway . . not bad for a vehicle weighing in at just under 5000#, longer and wider than a Suburban. (Stock cam was .425/.435).
I could not recommend FUEL POWER more strongly for any non-computer car. And, yes, I have tried all the other stuff out there for 35-years. Use what you will in addition, but keep FP in there!
Kestas
Staff member
When I rebuilt my 71 Olds 350, the valves were caked with a thick layer of deposits. I analyzed the exhaust valve deposits, which were very hard and tenacious, and found them to be mostly lead. A wire wheel took the deposits off. I can't imagine a chemical treatment that would remove lead deposits.
Since the FP60 formula has been around since the late 1940's I am willing to bet it was effective on those deposits. Odis and the inventor would tear down engines to prove value years ago and the engines were spotless from Odis's descriptions. I wish Odis could or would post that kind of stuff here.
Torino,
Use the LC too and give that M1 a little anti oxidation to assist.
Let us know how it works.
Terry
Torino,
Use the LC too and give that M1 a little anti oxidation to assist.
Let us know how it works.
Terry
MolaKule
Staff member
Torino,
FWIW, I had the same problem with a '76 Burb 350. The problem turned out to be a rich carb (Holly Spreadbore 750 cfm), too low a thermostat temp, and not enough "stomping-on-it.".
FWIW, I had the same problem with a '76 Burb 350. The problem turned out to be a rich carb (Holly Spreadbore 750 cfm), too low a thermostat temp, and not enough "stomping-on-it.".
Thanx for the info. Gents. Yes, the Torino receives an 'Italian tune-up' now and then. I am a bit anal about carburetor tuning. She rivals fuel injection with no tail pipe soot. I have access to a bore scope and can fairly easily check the intake valves. Best regards. John--Las Vegas.
Where is FP sold? Is there a particular name of FP that is used for mixing with gas?
Eddie,
Sold via the website www.lubecontrol.com , FP60 for gas/diesel, LC20 for dino and synthetic oils.
Ad at top of page.
Jeff
Sold via the website www.lubecontrol.com , FP60 for gas/diesel, LC20 for dino and synthetic oils.
Ad at top of page.
Jeff
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