I tested 2 oil Additives, Here are my results. Mos2 and LUBEGARDD

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23,748
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MA, Mittelfranken.de
Originally Posted by Lowflyer
Originally Posted by Trav
Hexagonal boron nitride (aka white graphite) in the form of Ceratec does the same exact thing
Ha ha. No, do not. HBN dont "squished" quick like MoS2 to utter ineffectiveness. And, more important, it does not becomes lumpy, in the meanwhile The only but one big problem with MoS2: If it become lumpy in front of bearing (all of it) gaps. It made a barriers "against" oil throughflow.
Quote
just say no to solids of any type in the oil IMO.
That's right. For first ~500 miles after oil change. Hence, oils with HBN does not exist. Solid lubricating components can't be added in the plant therefore. Why ~500 miles? In the time the new oil solves old filth from the previous oil. Thereafter this is no longer so important. And for safety of solid components, dont overdosage. Overdosage is (IMHO), more than 1%. With 1% after 500 miles you are safe. Guarantees. I am using HBN in many cars since 500.000 miles (accumulated to all cars in the family)
I have seen otherwise and so has another member here but you do want you want its you car and your money just don't try to sell me on it, only engine oil is going in my sump and I have just as many lube failure free miles without as you do with it over the years.
 
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Dagobah
What? What you are doing and what you believe is of course your business. I have a opinion and knowledge about it. I dont need sell anything. With lackadaisical about such adds you are in false thread...
 
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34,418
Location
NY
Originally Posted by Trav
Originally Posted by Lowflyer
Originally Posted by Trav
Hexagonal boron nitride (aka white graphite) in the form of Ceratec does the same exact thing
Ha ha. No, do not. HBN dont "squished" quick like MoS2 to utter ineffectiveness. And, more important, it does not becomes lumpy, in the meanwhile The only but one big problem with MoS2: If it become lumpy in front of bearing (all of it) gaps. It made a barriers "against" oil throughflow.
Quote
just say no to solids of any type in the oil IMO.
That's right. For first ~500 miles after oil change. Hence, oils with HBN does not exist. Solid lubricating components can't be added in the plant therefore. Why ~500 miles? In the time the new oil solves old filth from the previous oil. Thereafter this is no longer so important. And for safety of solid components, dont overdosage. Overdosage is (IMHO), more than 1%. With 1% after 500 miles you are safe. Guarantees. I am using HBN in many cars since 500.000 miles (accumulated to all cars in the family)
I have seen otherwise and so has another member here but you do want you want its you car and your money just don't try to sell me on it, only engine oil is going in my sump and I have just as many lube failure free miles without as you do with it over the years.
thumbsup After seeing your pictures and speaking about it with you, I wouldn't use it in anything I own, including daily drivers and OPE. If I wanted to boost moly I'd buy Biotech Engine Protectant and use that, at least I know for certain it isn't going to fall out of suspension.
 
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14,649
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Upper Midwest
Originally Posted by Lowflyer
What? What you are doing and what you believe is of course your business. I have a opinion and knowledge about it. I dont need sell anything. With lackadaisical about such adds you are in false thread...
Get a grip, please. Then come back.
 

4WD

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13,156
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Texas
Yeah … can't comprehend that … and seems most miracle in a small bottle threads go off the rails
 
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4,165
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WA
Originally Posted by demarpaint
Originally Posted by Trav
Originally Posted by Lowflyer
Originally Posted by Trav
Hexagonal boron nitride (aka white graphite) in the form of Ceratec does the same exact thing
Ha ha. No, do not. HBN dont "squished" quick like MoS2 to utter ineffectiveness. And, more important, it does not becomes lumpy, in the meanwhile The only but one big problem with MoS2: If it become lumpy in front of bearing (all of it) gaps. It made a barriers "against" oil throughflow.
Quote
just say no to solids of any type in the oil IMO.
That's right. For first ~500 miles after oil change. Hence, oils with HBN does not exist. Solid lubricating components can't be added in the plant therefore. Why ~500 miles? In the time the new oil solves old filth from the previous oil. Thereafter this is no longer so important. And for safety of solid components, dont overdosage. Overdosage is (IMHO), more than 1%. With 1% after 500 miles you are safe. Guarantees. I am using HBN in many cars since 500.000 miles (accumulated to all cars in the family)
I have seen otherwise and so has another member here but you do want you want its you car and your money just don't try to sell me on it, only engine oil is going in my sump and I have just as many lube failure free miles without as you do with it over the years.
thumbsup After seeing your pictures and speaking about it with you, I wouldn't use it in anything I own, including daily drivers and OPE. If I wanted to boost moly I'd buy Biotech Engine Protectant and use that, at least I know for certain it isn't going to fall out of suspension.
+1
 
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219
Location
Dagobah
Originally Posted by kschachn
Get a grip, please. Then come back.
+1. Super bided slobber And your moment had come. Good job thumbsup
 
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What I mostly like on Bitog is, that the focus is never on person. Only on the matter. Excellent forum, excellent folks...
 
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7,671
Location
Hudson, NH
Originally Posted by demarpaint
Originally Posted by LeakySeals
Nice. The VOA of the 30916 looks great. I wonder what the difference is from the 30901 Bio/Tech Engine Oil Protectant
It was too late to edit, I found it. Too late to edit:
Originally Posted by SubieRubyRoo
Another email to Lubegard. BioTech and Heavy Duty Engine Protectant are the same thing, just different package sizes. Me: Pat, I really appreciate your reply on the phosphorous content. One other question though as I am quite the noob on the chemistry side; I read several people discussing ester-based engine oils as having very good cleaning properties while obviously not being as �harsh� as something like an engine flush. So if you don�t mind, if you could answer a couple quick questions and I�ll be a very satisfied customer! 1. Are Bio/Tech and HD engine protectant (HDEP) the same product just packaged differently? If not, what are the main differences since the website does not explicitly state them? 2. Are the esters in Bio/Tech & HDEP the kind that will help remove varnish and sludging over time? What is Lubegard�s best product with these goals in mind? 3. If I am looking at extending my drain intervals while maintaining TBN and active cleansing agents, what is Lubegard�s best product for that? Lubegard: We always appreciate positive interest in our engine oil supplement Bio-Tech. We have acquired quite a following for this product both domestically and internationally. It is designed to work with the additive package in the engine oil you select for your regular service. It will enhance the additive pack in the oil and will provide protection when the additive package in the oil does not provide the desired properties or placement to prevent wear and reduce friction. It will also extend the oxidative stability of the oil reducing varnish and deposits allowing extended oil change intervals and lessening the detrimental effects of additive depletion engine oils often experience. Your questions: 1. They are the same product packaged differently for applications with larger oil sumps than passenger cars and light trucks. 2. The esters will work to prevent sludge and deposits but is not designed to remove them. The mineral base oils are more the source of concern. 3. The Bio-Tech is our best engine product and will extend drain intervals. Pat Burrow
Thats great, thanks! I'm going to get the HD version, give my LQ9 a splash or 2 during oil changes.
 
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8,279
Location
Virginia
Originally Posted by Trav
Originally Posted by demarpaint
Originally Posted by 4WD
I hear they have stuff coming out this Christmas … in quarts, liters, and jugs … and you can add 4 quarts to 8 quarts right in the fill cap hole … and it does not need any snake oil supplements … Sneak preview [Linked Image]
Two winners in my book. I think ESP is a sleeper that is going to catch on here in a big way. Time will tell.
The ESP is very good oil.
That Mobil 1 ESP 5w30 carries the Porsche C30 approval... Look that up on the Lubrizol chart.... That is a really hard spec to meet. I agree with you both... That M-1 ESP is bad donkey.
 
Originally Posted by demarpaint
Originally Posted by LeakySeals
Nice. The VOA of the 30916 looks great. I wonder what the difference is from the 30901 Bio/Tech Engine Oil Protectant
There's no difference, it was discussed here before. IIRC the HD version only comes in quarts and was targeted for diesel engines with larger sumps. Chemically they're identical formulations. There's a thread here where a member asked the company, via email, and he posted the answer, I just can't find it. LOL
It was my thread. I don't feel like searching, but use "lubegard heavy duty engine protectant VOA".
 
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122
Location
Central Illinois
Originally Posted by Lowflyer
What I mostly like on Bitog is, that the focus is never on person. Only on the matter. Excellent forum, excellent folks...
Couldn't agree more.
 
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34,418
Location
NY
Originally Posted by OS4A
@UG_passat No LM anti friction MOS2 does not say "shake well".
You're right. It wouldn't matter though, it falls out of suspension in the engine and settles at the bottom of the pan, so shaking the bottle isn't going to help.
 
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1,609
Location
Ocala, Florida
Useless test, proves nothing. Sure after setting for long periods some MoS2 will settle, do you not think as soon as the engine is started and brought up to temp that it doesn't recirculate? MoS2 works, its cheap and it does what it is supposed to do. I've personally seen it quiet an older, noisy engine right in front of me on several occasions. It also works very well in the HEUI Ford Powerstroke engines. Wow, and you guys pick on project farm videos...
 
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34,418
Location
NY
Originally Posted by racin4ds
Useless test, proves nothing. Sure after setting for long periods some MoS2 will settle, do you not think as soon as the engine is started and brought up to temp that it doesn't recirculate? MoS2 works, its cheap and it does what it is supposed to do. I've personally seen it quiet an older, noisy engine right in front of me on several occasions. It also works very well in the HEUI Ford Powerstroke engines. Wow, and you guys pick on project farm videos...
While the test might be useless and prove nothing, Trav's pictures and commentary told another story about the product. Others posted similar findings. After dropping the oil pan in well maintained engines the stuff was collected in the bottom of the oil pan, certainly not in suspension, even after moving the vehicle to get it on ramps or into the garage for service. Things like that tell me a lot more about a product than useless shade-tree mechanic tests, or mfg. recommendations and advertisements.
 
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219
Location
Dagobah
Originally Posted by racin4ds
Useless test, proves nothing. Sure after setting for long periods some MoS2 will settle, do you not think as soon as the engine is started and brought up to temp that it doesn't recirculate?
Partially. And I wrote abouit it on Bitog, boy: MoS² tend after time to clump. If you have a bit bad luck, also in front of bearing gaps. All clear? Ok if you have a engine with bearing clearance of later 60's, your gaps are sufficiently wide. Since later 90's, no longer. MoS² is a AW, from the WWII.
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MoS2 works, its cheap and it does what it is supposed to do.
Yep. But it do it bad. His nephew, hexagonal boron nitride (HBN), do it better and longer. In this comparison, MoS² is the stepbrother from graphite. For the same effect you can also put in your oil few squelched pencil leads...
 
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