I need advice on Toyota V6 timing belt

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I need advice I'm planning on some long overdue maintenance work for my '06 Camry It's at ~147K, on the factory timing belt and accessories At 15 years old, I'm about 5 years and 60k late, gotta make that right What do we think of AISIN timing belt and seal kits? I ordered a kit w/tensioner and cam/crank/belt cover seals off Rockauto TKT026 for $154 SKT004 for $24 Delivered for $193 I've taken pictures, because I've heard many stories of counterfeit and questionable substitutions thrown in the box [Linked Image from i.imgur.com] [Linked Image from i.imgur.com] [Linked Image from i.imgur.com] [Linked Image from i.imgur.com] [Linked Image from i.imgur.com] [Linked Image from i.imgur.com] [Linked Image from i.imgur.com] [Linked Image from i.imgur.com] [Linked Image from i.imgur.com] [Linked Image from i.imgur.com] [Linked Image from i.imgur.com] [Linked Image from i.imgur.com] [Linked Image from i.imgur.com] [Linked Image from i.imgur.com] [Linked Image from i.imgur.com] [Linked Image from i.imgur.com] My main concern is the belt itself, and the cam/crank seals I considered buying the belt and seals direct from Toyota for $75 extra or so, and still pocketing the significant savings on everything else OTOH, what's wrong with a Mitsuboshi timing belt? Horiuchi Shoten (THO) makes the seals, I've never heard of them before, but they look well made and say "Made in Japan" Everything else should be the same thing my Toyota parts guy sells me, just for 1/3 the price? (NTN, Koyo, etc) [censored], I even went all out on a $120 specialty tool for the cam seals, because I'm petrified of nicking the journals, where it'll never seal again From a shady seller, for more money, because it's OOS everywhere else. I do hope it actually shows up I don't know what I'm gonna do for the cam seal, the Lisle tool or a paint can opener? [Linked Image from toolsource.com]
I'm gonna pick up a HF crank puller (with my jack stand that nearly killed me) refund Do I need the special weighted 22mm socket, are they that much of a [censored] to remove? I've got a 1/2 air impact and a 20 gallon compressor Do I need this pulley holder to torque it down to spec after it's all done? [Linked Image from toolsource.com] Can anyone recommend a cam pulley holding tool for when they come off for the cam seals? Reviews are mixed I'm trying to think of every possible little roadblock so I can have tools and backup plans on hand Now I've got the slightly different and larger 3MZ-FE V6 I remember hearing how older Camry 2.2 5S I4 and earlier 3.0 1MZ V6 engines liked to leak real bad from some type of oil pump seal? Is it a shaft seal against a pulley, or is it a pump seal to the block? Does this apply to mine? Should I replace it while I'm in there? I'm planning a new Denso rad and new upper/lower hoses, with fresh SLLC so I don't waste coolant doing it twice I've got the spill free funnel ready I've got easy access to both block drains, hopefully that limits the mess when the pump comes loose I've got valve cover gaskets with bolts coming, stop the leaks on the top end Anyone with experience with this engine, experience and anecdotes are much appreciated I've watched about 6 different videos back to front on this job, but I know many experts live here with something I don't know grin

oil pump.PNG
 
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The Aisin kit you have is all what Toyota installs as OEM. If you got it from a reputable seller as you say (Rock Auto) then it is genuine. If you purchased Toyota branded parts you'd get the exact same components. I've changed out probably 10 timing belts on 1MZ-FE and 3MZ-FE engines and it's not that bad of a job as timing belts go. Get the FSM if you can for reference. As for a cam sprocket holding tool and a seal remover, these are the ones I have. The seal remover is from Lisle and it works like a charm. I also have the same crankshaft holder you show. [Linked Image from audiworld.com] [Linked Image from images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com]
 
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If you have time you can make the holding tools. It doesn't have to look pretty. The wp has a stud to remove I believe, The rear valve cover gasket will not be fun. You bought a top quality belt kit, now the work begins,
 
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Originally Posted by PimTac
Mitsuboshi makes good stuff. Seems like we had a thread on this just recently.
We did. FWIW, I just got a timing belt from Toyota dealer last month and it does not have "Mitsuboshi" written on it. I posted here asking why my timing belt didn't have "Mitsuboshi" written on it. It only had the logo. As far as what I think about Aisin TIming Belt kits? If I knew it was made by Aisin, I wouldn't be scared at all. That is the big question. You will never know if it is a true Aisin for certain. I got a fake Aisin rear wheel bearing that failed and only after it failed did the Lexus mechanic see it was not made like their Lexus OEM Aisin Wheel Bearings which were about 50% more in price. I ain't buying a kit from anyone but a dealer. I may be stupid. I may be in error. I may be a conspiracy theorist. But I "know" my parts are legit. happy Will putting in copy cat parts destroy your car? Probably not. I would say the odds are in your favor. I say that to bring balance to my previous comments. Odds are you will be fine. They are probably legit.
 
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Originally Posted by Gebo
I got a fake Aisin rear wheel bearing that failed and only after it failed did the Lexus mechanic see it was not made like their Lexus OEM Aisin Wheel Bearings which were about 50% more in price.
If Aisin makes wheel bearings that's a new one on me.
 
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Just to add when I did my Toyota timing belt the oe bearings were Koyo and the tensioner NTN from the factory. That set looks legit. Sometimes you can just see it, although I am big on buying dealer parts. I replaced the parts with less than Koyo and used a gates belt. Never an issue. You will need more gaskets to get to the rear valve cover. I never want to do that job again and am amazed at mechanics who have to bend over an engine bay and deal with some of this work on a daily basis. Replace the heater hoses too since you doing all that.
 
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Originally Posted by mk378
Do not try to replace the seals unless you find they are leaking.
Why? I would replace all the seals because if the seals leak, then the whole timing belt replacement have to be redone. The Belt usually broke because of oil leaks dripping onto the belt. Don't ask me how I know.
 
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That kit you bought is awesome. Use all of it. I've done many & the kit has the same parts that the factory uses. As for the oil pump, it's not prone to leak lime the older 5S-FE style. Just replace the front crank seal & 2 cam seals. Valve cover gaskets are easy if you need to do them now, also makes the cam seals a breeze to with no special tools required with the valve cover off.
 
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Yes Toyota uses many Aisin parts for factory assembly and dealer repairs/replacements. I would use this kit with confidence. It sounds like you are being extra careful in the areas that warrant it. Go for it, and good luck. thumbsup
 
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Originally Posted by WyrTwister
Originally Posted by mk378
Do not try to replace the seals unless you find they are leaking.
+
Although if you are using the tool illustrated in the first post then it is about a 10 minute job. I have the camshaft tool but not the crankshaft one.
 
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Originally Posted by mehullica
That kit you bought is awesome. Use all of it. I've done many & the kit has the same parts that the factory uses. As for the oil pump, it's not prone to leak lime the older 5S-FE style. Just replace the front crank seal & 2 cam seals. Valve cover gaskets are easy if you need to do them now, also makes the cam seals a breeze to with no special tools required with the valve cover off.
I disagree on the valve cover gasket. Since this is a 3MZ, the water inlet plate will probably leak sometime soon - I would wait until then before replacing the valve cover gaskets. https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...v6-water-inlet-valley-plate-coolant-leak
 
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I used the same kit on my 2004 Sienna. I used this as a general procedure: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jfxGNo9KlFk To answer your questions and offer advice. 1) I can't comment on whether or not you got counterfeit parts. I ordered the same timing kit (TKT026) off Rock Auto and from your pictures they took to be identical but it's impossible to determine anything from a couple of pictures on the internet unless the fake parts are really obvious. Do you have any reason to suspect they are bad? 2) One things that threw me for a loop is the long bolts for the side motor mount. Starting at about 2:50 in video above. I do not know if you have the same bolts in your camry as the video is for a sienna. However, they are long steel bolts that go into an aluminum mount. One of mine snapped instantly. I tried drilling it out and had no success. I ended up getting a new part from toyota for around $30 .. Had I known it was that inexpensive, I would have just bought it right away instead of trying to drill out the bolt. I also did a horrible job planning out the drilling so it was mostly my fault. This article outlines where the bolt snaps and claims you can remove the whole assembly without separating the two parts. I have not tried doing this. I ended up buying a new bottom part of this bracket (it had the snapped off threads in it) and two new long bolts. http://carspecmn.com/toyota-sienna-engine-mount-bolt-broken-during-timing-belt-replacement/ 3) I did not use the cam or crank seal set you bought. I ended up buying those 3 seals at a toyota dealer. Price was reasonable. 4) for the cam sprockets, I used the same tool he used at 8:05 in video above. It worked fine but I had to have a helper hold the tool while I used the breaker bar. In the video he does it by himself which I suppose is possible . If you have a helper, one thing to be aware of is that it's hard to coordinate being in sync between you trying to loosen the cam sprocket bolt and your helper holding the cam sprocket. When I did it with my son there was a little bit of cam movement that occurred when the bolt broke free and he wasn't prepared for the instantaneous lack of counter pressure when the bolt broke free. That was ok because the cam only moved a tiny bit and I was able to just move the cam back to position. 4.1) Note.. My cam seals were NOT leaking a bit. I replaced the seals anyway but I definitely was on the fence about that. ie: if I didn't replace them, I'd worry the old seals would start to leak 5K later... if I did replace them... would they start leaking because I disturbed a perfect seal and/or did the job wrong.. That sort of thing. However, once I took my cam sprockets off it was very clear they were not leaking. It should be clear if they are leaking or not without taking the sprockets off as well. 4.2) I used the Lisle seal puller tool. Lisle Seal Pullers 58430 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...sXsMV_TP_1Y7wf9hFdSfWlmzAWBoCgjcQAvD_BwE worked like a charm. I found it very easy to use. 4.3) to install the seals, I'm pretty sure I used a section of PVC pipe, a flat piece of wood and one of the cam shaft bolts. Worked well . I also lubed the seals with some dielectric grease before putting in so they slide in easily. 5) Read the instructions that come with the kit ..... because I didn't. :-) There is a step on there that comes into play after you align all timing marks it says "Turn crankshaft counter clockwise until No. 1 cylinder at approximately 60 degrees BTDC" The video I reference above did NOT do this step. I did not do it either. The purpose of this step is to relieve tension on the cams and reduce chance of damage to the engine. From another forum, a user said "The purpose of the 60° turn of the crankshaft in the factory manual is to put the pistons into a position where the valves cannot hit them if the camshafts are turned. This is a "safe" position where any other work can be done without worry of causing damage to the valves. If you are careful not to turn the camshafts while the timing belt is off then there is no need to do this. " The key to that section is "If you are careful not to turn the camshafts while the timing belt is off then there is no need to do this." That is absolutely true but it's tricky. The rear cam us under spring tension and in my case I found out just how little it has to be rotated until the spring tension takes over and rotates the cam violently. I replaced my timing belt with everything aligned. Then I went to put the belt back on, the rear cam rotated under the spring tension and I heard the distinct "tink" of valves hitting pistons. It was a horrible sound. Thankfully no damage was done. It was only after I had this happen did I find some instructions that mention rotating . google "rotate crank 60 degrees toyota timing" and I'm sure you'll find numerous discussions. Again, I did not do this and I got lucky. 6) crank bolt.. took me 2 hours to loosen. I tried a combination of things. What ultimately worked for me is rigging up a ratchet, a short piece of 2x4 standing on end, and a hydraulic jack . The jack would press up against the ratchet arm. Really hokey.... but worked. On a life, a nice breaker bar would work find, but just up on jack stands, there's no room. What I wish I did was just bring it to a shop and have them loosen the bolt and pay them $10 for their 30 seconds of time. (assuming I could find a garage to do that for me)
 
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I knew people would have things to add That tip about turning the crank back 60 degrees I wouldn't have thought of After further discussion with my Toyota parts guy it turns out, on the 3MZ oil pump, the pump is mounted over the crank, so crank seal = oil pump seal If it leaks from anywhere else, both upper and lower oil pans and the pickup have to come off before it'll come off the engine eek I'm gonna get the cam/crank seals from Toyota, it's an extra $15 I can budget, and they're orange instead of black. Maybe a different type of rubber? The belt looks identical enough that I can't justify an extra $50 and have a spare laying around, that's kind of a waste I did go the extra $5 for a new crank bolt, because I don't know how hard I'm gonna have to go on it, I hear they don't like to come out I've got a special Lisle 22mm Harmonic Balancer Socket, cam holder, crank holder, and Lisle seal tool on the way And a cheap traditional seal puller, a set of picks, and a paint can opener as backup plans I haven't seen a drop of coolant anywhere that'd suggest the water plate is leaking, but that day will come eventually cry I've had that upper manifold on and off so many times, I've got it down to less than a half hour, the secret is a flex head ratcheting 14mm Gearwrench I'm not going to do everything at once, I don't want to get in over my head, especially as I'll probably be returning to work soon ...it's my daily driver I want to do VC gaskets, upstream AFR sensors, send the injectors to WitchHunter, new in tank filter and pump Degrease the engine bay one last time, then put in the new control arms, ball joints, and badly needed engine mounts Which is pivotal on stopping oil leaking on new timing belts, control arm bushings, and engine mounts shocked2 But I don't want to get degreaser on my nice new belt Gotta pace myself.... getting out of breath just thinking about it crzy Spoiler alert, the OTC jack stands I ordered for this job to replace the HF ones that tried to kill me showed up ...they suck, a thread is pending
 
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The crankshaft seal is not the main oil pump seal, same as the 1MZ-FE (and most other oil pumps) the oil pump pressure is sealed off by an o-ring on the back of the pump housing. No shaft seal like that could hold back the pressure from the pump. There is zero need to buy different seals from Toyota, if Aisin puts them in the kit then they are at least equal to whatever you'll get from the dealership.
 
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