CharBaby
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I believe that Mitsubishi is using the same/similar CVTs as NISSAN(JATCO)???
Correct- JATCO supplies CVTs to Mitsubishi, FCA, GM, and Suzuki.I believe that Mitsubishi is using the same/similar CVTs as NISSAN(JATCO)???
Not the trans , fault I don' think. My Wife's Crosstrek is actually too fast around town and in the parking lot(!), but there is not much passing power on the highway. That engine seems tuned for economy compared to their older solid cam engines. She gets around 30 combined with hard driving. Not bad for a 3300 lb AWD wagon with an Automatic. Good thing with the Subaru is it locks up a mini fluid coupling at about 5mph in low range and never looks back. So no "slush box" major heat and efficiency loss - just the sheave and belt friction loss - and of course hydraulic pumping losses. Ill still take a manual. Cars these days interfere too much with good drivers as it is - sometimes causing accidents.My younger sister also has an Impreza with a CVT and it's slooooooow. She likes it so who cares.
An interesting thought. I don't think that's the case, but I'd love to hear a technical discussion about it. Maybe @MolaKule would have some insight on whether or not the lack of clutch material would be enough to allow for a reduced lubricant quality in CVTs.2010 Murano with 120K. Fluid was changed once. No issues with the CVT. I take it easy off the line - no jackrabbit starts.
I don't think the fluid is as important as geared transmissions. There are no shift events to shed clutch material into the fluid.
I find this so weird. All inspect but no definitive change. I worry about that. It does look like an inspect every 30k or 30 months. For me, it would be every 30 months since I am not driving a lot of miles at the moment so December will be 30 months for my 18 Legacy and January 2022 will be 30 months for my 19 Impreza.80,000 miles on my 2014 Suby Outback's CVT. No fluid changes, which is consistent with the owner's manual which does not specify any requirements to change the fluid. I might get the tranny fluid changed before too long.
They are shedding the shim-stack pusher belt and Sheave material. Lots of Metal particulate. Mine had metallic mud in the pan. But survived b/c when I saw that, I did an early dump. Don't want that stuff in the hydraulic logic.An interesting thought. I don't think that's the case, but I'd love to hear a technical discussion about it. Maybe @MolaKule would have some insight on whether or not the lack of clutch material would be enough to allow for a reduced lubricant quality in CVTs.
Subaru states to inspect. If ours (Subaru) is a sealed system how would you inspect it? I'm assuming Toyotas are different?Does any carmaker state in the owner's manual that a CVT transmission's fluid needs to be changed every X-thousand miles? Toyota dealers in the greater Charlotte area tell me
1) it never needs to be changed
2) It is a sealed system and if I open it it will fail within 4 months.
3) It is good until over 200,000 miles and don't touch it.
All the above came from the service desk people from 3 dealerships; arguably NOT ACE certified mechanics, or maybe retired ones.
They say it is sealed. My mechanic just used his socket wrench and undid the pan after he drained it through the plug and the nipple valve. There is a gasket, like everything else in the engine. So yeah it is sealed.Subaru states to inspect. If ours was a sealed system how would you inspect it? I'm assuming Toyotas are different?
Continuously variable trans-mission fluid
It is not necessary to check the transmission fluid level. Check that there are no cracks, damage or leakage. However, the fluid inspection should be performed according to the maintenance schedule in the “Warranty and Maintenance Booklet”. Consult your SUBARU dealer for details.
Does any carmaker state in the owner's manual that a CVT transmission's fluid needs to be changed every X-thousand miles?
Ahh. My old S4 is a "sealed system" and was told that the fluid was lifetime. I had it changed after maybe 10 - 11 years with less than 80k miles on it. I said I was gonna do it again at 100k. I said that 10 years ago and still haven't hit 100k. I don't drive it much. It's got a lot of issues and the change isn't exactly cheap. Something like $600 for parts, fluid and labor. That was even with using Amsoil ATF for $10/qt and not $30/qt for Audi ATF.They say it is sealed. My mechanic just used his socket wrench and undid the pan after he drained it through the plug and the nipple valve. There is a gasket, like everything else in the engine. So yeah it is sealed.