How to tell what engine mount is gone.

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Hi all, I'm trying to figure out what if any gearbox or engine mount is gone. They seem fine when driving in gear through the rev range. It bangs quite a bit when starting and turning off, a lot more the I'm used to first diesel car but i have driven other diesel and haven't felt it like this before. also when you put the clutch in when the engine is above idle (i.e slow first gear and then suddenly put in the clutch) the engine, not the car lurches, not sure if forward or backwards. Here are the pictures for the gearbox mount I forgot to take picture of the rest but the all look the same, no rips, tough but not rock hard. What I'm trying to figure out is this the normal for other small diesel or do i need to look for other mounts that might be causing it.

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Best way to check them is on the car. With a helper, hold down on the brake while in drive. Increase the throttle a little while observing the engine. If it moves excessively the one being tugged on is bad. Then try the same procedure in reverse to check the opposite mount. A broken mount will cause the engine to jump a great deal and make it appear to jump out of its craddle, so be prepaired for that. If the engine moves more than an inch or so warrants a closer look as the mount is questionable.They often will begine to sag with age, changing driveline angles as well. There are usually one on each side and a transmission mount. If one goes bad, I change them all with OEM units as the aftermarket ones don't last long or cause vibration issues. Since you already have them off the car, I would change them out with OEM ones.
 
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If this is the Mazda that you are talking about, Mazdas are notorious for having weak engine/transmission mounts that fail relatively early. You can't always tell by looking at them. I wouldn't be at-all surprised if yours are bad. You should change all of them.
 
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Originally Posted by wag123
If this is the Mazda that you are talking about, Mazdas are notorious for having weak engine/transmission mounts that fail relatively early. You can't always tell by looking at them. I wouldn't be at-all surprised if yours are bad. You should change all of them.
This^^. If one has failed the others can't be far behind. Change them all then you won't be doing it all over again in 6 months.
 
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Originally Posted by mossietheno1
This is a manual transmission is this still possible to do.
Yes. Slowly release clutch and give some throttle not to the point of stalling. You got have the job half done already be removing them, I would just put new ones on and you are good for a long time.
 
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Yea its the mazda, I have been looking up at the reports of mazda motor/trans mount and they are broke like in two pieces or have big rip. I will upload more pic in an hour just going at it now. but i think its the fuild mount as i cant see any tears but il have a go lighty jack each side and see which side moves a bit.
 
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yea I get the logic and I will see how bad in comparison there are. Thanks lubener I will try that if I the other ways cant find it as Il have put it all back together for that.
 
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Ever heard of Window Weld engine mounts? The best mounts on the market for the price. Usually anywhere between $6-$25 total. Will most likely outlast the rest of the vehicle.. 1) Buy windshield glue, aka Window Weld. Different brands available, 3M is the best. 2) Use your old mounts and apply some tape or clear plastic food wrap to one open side of it. 3) From the other side fill it up and pack it up with window weld stuff. The more you apply - the stiffer the mount gets. 4) Let dry, ideally untouched for a week with taped side down. 5) Once dry - remove the tape and re-install on the vehicle. 6) Enjoy you poor man's performance engine/trans mounts. CLICK HERE FOR STEP-BY-STEP GUIDE WITH PICTURES.
 
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Probably the motor-side mount... my Volvo is a similar (same?) platform to the Mazda 3, and the one on the motor side (passenger side in US) seems to fail the most (the others fail too, though).
 
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CA
Originally Posted by Vladiator
Ever heard of Window Weld engine mounts? The best mounts on the market for the price. Usually anywhere between $6-$25 total. Will most likely outlast the rest of the vehicle.. 1) Buy windshield glue, aka Window Weld. Different brands available, 3M is the best. 2) Use your old mounts and apply some tape or clear plastic food wrap to one open side of it. 3) From the other side fill it up and pack it up with window weld stuff. The more you apply - the stiffer the mount gets. 4) Let dry, ideally untouched for a week with taped side down. 5) Once dry - remove the tape and re-install on the vehicle. 6) Enjoy you poor man's performance engine/trans mounts. CLICK HERE FOR STEP-BY-STEP GUIDE WITH PICTURES.
That may work for low tech mounts. But many are not that type, fluid filled, etc. The newer the car the less likely that will work. Bad place to cheap out. One week cure time?
 
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988
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NC
Originally Posted by user52165
That may work for low tech mounts. But many are not that type, fluid filled, etc. The newer the car the less likely that will work. Bad place to cheap out. One week cure time?
Cheap doesn't always mean bad. I learned this trick from people who got tired of replacing engine mounts every year or two. Aftermarket performance mounts just don't last as long as OEM, but OEM has a REALLY high price tag usually, and doesn't work well in an application where a vehicle has power upgrades. This is just a cheap alternative for the performance oriented drivers. Plenty of BMW, Volvo, Audi, Volkswagen, Porsche (yes, I was surprised too), Honda, and other vehicles got the window weld mounts due to the fact that they work great, not simply to "cheap out". A local guy near me spent about $600 on performance brand name mounts for his BMW. Those hyped up mounts failed after 8 months of trackdays, autocross, and rallycross. Then he just went the window weld route to see what happens, and so far going strong for over 2 years. One week cure time is ideal if you applied all at once. If you went in layers, then couple days is plenty. And that's how I learned about Window Weld mounts at Cars & Coffee.
 
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Ireland
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Sorry about be I went around and took pictures of them decide to take out the back one as I could really see it. I just saw the number 1 from underneth and it look ok worn but ok but when you filp it over you can see where the metal has been hit each other. I agree with brages it is normally the fluid fill one one the no.1 cylinder side of the engine that goes but it looked like that one had been replaced as the rubber all around it was clean and fresh and very little rust on any of it compared to the rest of the engine bay. here the pictures [Linked Image] [Linked Image] and here is what they should look like, there should be two attached and the bottom piece of rubber should not be attached to the middle piece of metal. https://www.autodoc.co.uk/febest/11757033 Il try and get the mazda mount because i love there balance or sporty fell and comfort. Thanks everyone for making me check all of them.
 
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2,119
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Texas
Originally Posted by mossietheno1
I agree with brages it is normally the fluid fill one one the no.1 cylinder side of the engine that goes but it looked like that one had been replaced as the rubber all around it was clean and fresh and very little rust on any of it compared to the rest of the engine bay.
That mount is clearly parrished. If the fluid filled one has in-fact already been replaced, you can clearly see the rationale for replacing all of them at the same time, and I would still replace ALL of them now (especially if I was planning to keep the car), regardless of how good one of them looks. Remember the old adage... do it once, do it right.
 
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