How to sift through the BS Oils?

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Originally Posted by 67ZL1
Winter front, block heater, coolant strength good for -50°C, maybe a bottle of Antigel, and 0W oil in your choice. Seen -50° lots of times working in the " Patch ". I don't shut my diesels off when it get below -25° on location. Also I believe travelling thru BC it's law to have winter rated tires.

Sorry, what?
 
Originally Posted by kschachn
Originally Posted by 67ZL1
Winter front, block heater, coolant strength good for -50°C, maybe a bottle of Antigel, and 0W oil in your choice. Seen -50° lots of times working in the " Patch ". I don't shut my diesels off when it get below -25° on location. Also I believe travelling thru BC it's law to have winter rated tires.

Sorry, what?




I think he meant to post this in the Alaska travel thread.
 
Originally Posted by kschachn
Originally Posted by 67ZL1
Winter front, block heater, coolant strength good for -50°C, maybe a bottle of Antigel, and 0W oil in your choice. Seen -50° lots of times working in the " Patch ". I don't shut my diesels off when it get below -25° on location. Also I believe travelling thru BC it's law to have winter rated tires.

Sorry, what?

Originally Posted by kschachn
Originally Posted by 67ZL1
Winter front, block heater, coolant strength good for -50°C, maybe a bottle of Antigel, and 0W oil in your choice. Seen -50° lots of times working in the " Patch ". I don't shut my diesels off when it get below -25° on location. Also I believe travelling thru BC it's law to have winter rated tires.

Sorry, what?


I tried to delete my previous post but it would not allow me to
 
Originally Posted by North_Maine
There is a reference in the manual that does recommend only using API-certed oils... so I guess that's the short answer- if it doesn't have the API seal then it is unacceptable to use. That does run counter to the entire Amsoil culture.

Thanks for the feedback guys.

If one is ascribing to the "Amsoil culture" then combing through standards and finding reasons to justify running product without industry approvals is par for the course.
Some people want to make it obscure or difficult or nebulous in order to feel like they're "in the know" or that they've discovered a better mousetrap.

Reality is, in the preponderance of PCMO situations, users that follow the OEM recommendations for specs and change intervals will only have success and that success will come very inexpensively.
 
Originally Posted by Imp4
Originally Posted by North_Maine
There is a reference in the manual that does recommend only using API-certed oils... so I guess that's the short answer- if it doesn't have the API seal then it is unacceptable to use. That does run counter to the entire Amsoil culture.

Thanks for the feedback guys.

If one is ascribing to the "Amsoil culture" then combing through standards and finding reasons to justify running product without industry approvals is par for the course.
Some people want to make it obscure or difficult or nebulous in order to feel like they're "in the know" or that they've discovered a better mousetrap.

Reality is, in the preponderance of PCMO situations, users that follow the OEM recommendations for specs and change intervals will only have success and that success will come very inexpensively.


Well put. Right now Delo Synblend 15W-40 is 14.97 at walmart or Amazon Prime.... That's what I'll run. I was just trying to figure this thing out about the plethora of extra special oils available.
 
Originally Posted by North_Maine
I was just trying to figure this thing out about the plethora of extra special oils available.

33.gif

There are no "extra special oils".
Only "extra special marketing"....
 
Originally Posted by Imp4
Originally Posted by North_Maine
I was just trying to figure this thing out about the plethora of extra special oils available.

33.gif

There are no "extra special oils".
Only "extra special marketing"....


There may typically NOT any standouts among those bearing the API starburst typically due to aftertreatment compatibility and ILSAC restraints.

But alternatively, Non-certs can have boosted AW and EP for specific applications.

Think Motorsports with short drain intervals or hardworked aircooled ODPE.

For a small blender multiple certs and approvals can push their pricing in to non competitive territory.

e.g: I ran a non ILSAC 5W30 snowblower synthetic blended for Yardman/MTD in Louisianna
and it was the best oil I ran in the mid 2K naughts in my little Toyota commuter. High ZDDP and great cold flow.
 
Originally Posted by Imp4
Originally Posted by North_Maine
I was just trying to figure this thing out about the plethora of extra special oils available.

33.gif

There are no "extra special oils".
Only "extra special marketing"....


Sorry I was being sarcastic with the extra special comment.
 
Originally Posted by ARCOgraphite
.....I ran a non ILSAC 5W30 snowblower synthetic blended for Yardman/MTD in Louisianna
and it was the best oil I ran in the mid 2K naughts in my little Toyota commuter. High ZDDP and great cold flow.


I didn't realize cold flow and Louisiana could be used in the same sentence!!!
Ugh, it's actually two sentences!!! So close... so close...
Wonders never cease.

But in all seriousness, talking about motor oil is mildly interesting and a great way to kill some time but people lose me when they start geeking out on non-ILSAC high zinc, high phosphorus anything. In the preponderance of occasions it's not needed at all. Full stop.

But it is geeky for geekinesses sake.
 
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Originally Posted by North_Maine
Originally Posted by Bud
Originally Posted by Imp4
This is the whole intent of the API starburst and donut program.
Read your owner's manual.
Follow it's instructions.
Purchase oil that meets manufacturer recommendation.

Wash, rinse, repeat.

Here's a link to the API sponsored Motoroilmatters.org website that has additional information.

01.gif



I agree, though there is some ambiguity. For instance my newest truck says "FCA Material Standard MS-10902 and the API CJ-4 engine oil category is required. Products meeting Cummins CES 20081 may also be used." and along comes Triax (and most others, not picking on one particular oil) listing Cummins CES 20086 under "Product Specifications"...

There is a reference in the manual that does recommend only using API-certed oils... so I guess that's the short answer- if it doesn't have the API seal then it is unacceptable to use. That does run counter to the entire Amsoil culture.

Thanks for the feedback guys.

Originally Posted by North_Maine
Originally Posted by Bud
Originally Posted by Imp4
This is the whole intent of the API starburst and donut program.
Read your owner's manual.
Follow it's instructions.
Purchase oil that meets manufacturer recommendation.

Wash, rinse, repeat.

Here's a link to the API sponsored Motoroilmatters.org website that has additional information.

01.gif



I agree, though there is some ambiguity. For instance my newest truck says "FCA Material Standard MS-10902 and the API CJ-4 engine oil category is required. Products meeting Cummins CES 20081 may also be used." and along comes Triax (and most others, not picking on one particular oil) listing Cummins CES 20086 under "Product Specifications"...

There is a reference in the manual that does recommend only using API-certed oils... so I guess that's the short answer- if it doesn't have the API seal then it is unacceptable to use. That does run counter to the entire Amsoil culture.

Thanks for the feedback guys.


Cummins (and most commercial engine OEMs) publish approved lube list. These show each product in the market that they have approved for a given engine model. The lists are usually comprehensive and updated regularly. Now I do not know if Cummins publishes this for the FCA B series engines, but it's worth a look. Bottom line is to not use an oil that is not on the list (in my view).

This is where dealer can access the Cummins registered fluids list:

https://quickserve.cummins.com/info/qsol/news/oil_registration.html
 
Triax is certified by API for the motor oils licensed by API. There is your evidence. A number of them are GF-5 also. It's got the starburst and the donut. From their website Triax says they were in the military and industrial markets only and just entered the consumer marketplace very recently during the past five years. It is an American company based in Texas. There is plenty of opportunity for new brands to enter the market in particular American brands.

PQIA is kind of interesting now they seem to be positioning themselves as the Consumers Union of motor oil. But they are slow as molasses and only test a handful of oils every year. Their brand coverage is very spotty.
 
Not exactly user friendly that Cummins site you have to create an account and give personal info just to get their list of approved motor oils. They should be giving it away free to consumers no strings attached if they are going to sell their engine in passenger cars and trucks. Dealer only info, no thanks.
 
Originally Posted by North_Maine
Originally Posted by JustN89
Just throwing this out there, but it looks like Triax is API certified. At least, this one is.



It looks like your right!

I was specifically looking at this response regarding their Fleet Supreme 15W-40:

[Linked Image]



That answer from Triax sounds like BS to me. API does not approve additive packs. They approve formulated oils based on passing a battery of tests.
 
Originally Posted by North_Maine
What are the standards used or methods for identifying when an oil may not be what it claims to be? Case in point would be Triax. Amazon reviews are great, lots of seller self-glorification, no API cert but a nice long list of manufacturer's specs it meets, but not endorsed by. I saw another thread here were someone quite pointedly said that the "approvals" should read "None."

Would this be the same case with AMSoil?, Liquimoly? Royal Purple's non-API line?

How do you conclude that an oil is good or not?



The best standards are the engine builders standards.

The additive package is usually designed by the additive manufacturers and they have the approvals.

The Triax response is quite honest in my opinion.
 
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Kinda like John Deere +50II. Stout oil, meets many engine and equipment specs and no API starburst on the containers. It boils down to who is warranting the engines and what they require. Not necessarily what is best.
 
Anecdotal evidence for TRIAX, I ordered their Honda specific PSF fluid for my teenagers DD that has over 200K miles and a power steering pump that was real noisy and would get heavy if you turned the wheel fast. I thought pump need rebuilding and was ready to do that. I already replaced the O-rings per honda TSB and that did not solve the problem. I flushed the system with the TRIAX and after a few cranks of the wheel back and forth the pump is quite and running smoothly and they heavy steering is gone.

Would flushing it with Honda PSF have done the same thing? Time will tell if this fluid eats the seals. But for now a full synthetic at a reasonable price. I am sold. I may try their UTTO synthetic next to replace J20D and J20C fluids.
 
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