How to fix exhaust broken at the flange?

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9,951
Location
USA
Thread starter
1996 I30 (Maxima) The weld right after the flange on the resonator broke off and rusted. The flange from the cat and the flange from the resonator are rusted together. mad mad mad I can't use the typical soup can method because it won't fit around the flanges. I tried Tiger Tape (an exhaust wrap), but it didn't work. Is there anything string or wire-like I could wrap around it? Twine, some kind of wire, something like that I could use? I don't want to spend too much money because I am dumping the car soon. A new Y-pipe and converter will cost too much, and a universal cat won't work because on this car, the oxygen sensor is mounted right after the cat, and it is an unusual size (not the typical 22mm nut and whatever large thread that is), but a smaller 14mm nut, and the sensor is only 3 wires rather than the typical four. I grabbed this from a YT video to show you what my exhaust looks like. Right now, the green dotted line is where mine broke off. Both the flanges on one side, and the resonator and pipe are on the other side. [Linked Image]
 
Messages
7,012
Location
North Carolina
Take it to an exhaust shop and have them weld on a new flange. Have them remove the flange entirely and weld it solid. Could probably have it done for 50 bucks or so.
 
Messages
1,257
Location
Elizabeth. Colorado
Originally Posted by rooflessVW
Take it to an exhaust shop and have them weld on a new flange. Have them remove the flange entirely and weld it solid. Could probably have it done for 50 bucks or so.
^^^^This is the answer^^^^
 
Messages
5,968
Location
Connecticut
Originally Posted by rooflessVW
Take it to an exhaust shop and have them weld on a new flange. Have them remove the flange entirely and weld it solid. Could probably have it done for 50 bucks or so.
+2
 
Messages
80
Location
Upstate
If there is enough left on the pipe, and hopefully even a little bit of the flare, you might try a split repair flange. Like it sounds, it is a two-piece flange, meant to replace a rusted or broken original. Some are a clamp style, meant to grip the pipe in the event there is no flare to hold it. I had a flange fail at the converter, dropping the pipe on the road. It was a winter car on which I didn't want to spend a bunch replacing it cat back. Eight bucks, saved my bacon. Didn't know they existed until the knowledgeable counter man (remember them?) suggested one. Google shows a few different types, and naturally they're more expensive now, but still a cheap alternative. Good luck.
 
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