How reliable is the 5.7 Hemi?

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There is a HUGE climate difference here. VNT lives in New England and AMkeer lives in Florida. The winters take their toll, especialy now, since most of New England has converted over to straight salt in the winter with liquid calcium (a calcium salt solution stored in tanks and sprayed on road salt to loosen it up). This is extremely corrosive and was at it's worse through the late 80's and mid 90's. Besides the plastic Saturn, there isn't a car out there that does well against this.

To compare apples to apples here, I have 2001 F150 and my father has a 2001 Tacoma. Both driven in the winter, commuting, and washed weekly. I spend a little more time cleaning rust off my truck than he does, however I have 87,000 miles and he has 28,000.

So who is the rust champion? Well we both have comparable rust damage so far. Our radiator supports are starting to bubble. Both have limited frame & drivetrain rust at seams and bends. All doors' and tailgates' seams at the bottom edges are starting to bubble. There is no signs of rust on the outer body panels at all. Underneath, the body seams on the cabs and beds are weeping red. So my conclusion is that no matter what you get, it will rust.
 
Crashz

Maybe you need to do a failure analysis to draw a better conclusion.

I would find it difficult to beleive a 2001 model would have any rust, sans any portion which is unpainted, but maybe yours do. I'll ask my coworker if his F150 has anything showing on his. I know my 00 Durango and 02 Jeep have no rust period anywhere on them. Note, when I bought them new, I painted everthing on the underside which wasnt painted, notably the axles and some suspension coponents, of course those arent goint to rust through. POR works awesome for that purpose.


Go to a junkyard which contains older 8-15 yr old cars/trucks, not one which specializes in late model wrecks. There is one near me which has about 4000 cars in it, the guy crushes 3500 cars a year. He lets you in the yard and sells stuff cheap. I usually hunt down certain parts for my cars and have gone there for the last 5 or so years. Take a close look and see where the cars/trucks get the cancer and which makes and models suffer the worst. You can then determine at least cars built from that time period which suffered the worst. Up here in Maine, I would say Hondas are the worst. see many Civics/Accords/Preludes(88-95sh) in the yard up here. Floors,rockers and strut towers rotted, not to mention the outer body. The GM, Ford, DC seem to get the cancer on some of the outer panels, lower doors, but floors and rockers are pretty good and the rust is no where near as extensive. Of course most of the cars are in the yard for probably something mechanical and most have 150-200K miles, some more, some less. It is also interesting to see what gets pulled on different cars. The Diamond Star 16 V cars, there isnt a head left on any Eclipse or Talon. The VW stuff gets raped as soon as the guy brings them in. Hondas, many of the manual trannys disappear, any 4wd the transfer cases get yanked, Subarus all the viscous couplers, older Dodges heads get yanked, dont see too many 93 up Dodges(Intrepids that sort of stuff is rare, some Neons), Toyotas I met a guy who know one of my freinds, he yanks all the trannies from them for cores to fix customers cars, primarily 89and up autos. Many people go to this yard. I can get a tranny for 50$, engine for 100$, you pull it, no warranty. If your looking for older stuff, it is great. he doesnt buy new wrecks, just old derilicts people want out of.

Myself I grab any 89-93 Turbo stuff, axles, getrag gear sets, computers, intercooler, shifters and cables, engine harness, any shleby with the 11.5" brakes. Also grab any interior trim which is good and matches what I have.also have a couple spare common block 2.5T1's as cores.


As far as cars produced today, who knows which ones will have the rust problems. All I can say is I have 6 90 and older Turbo Dodges with 120- 198K miles. No outer body rust on them. Floors are good. My 89 Shadow has some rust starting on inner lip on hatch. In contrast, my 87 SR5 was loaded with cancer in numerous parts by the time it was 6 or so years old. My wifes 97 Pathfinder had stuff starting under the doors, hatch by the time it was 5 years old. Note I wash and wax my cars often and clean under the doors, hatches every time I wash them.

VNT
 
SilverHemi, what did you pay and does this engine burn any oil?
 
This article really was impressed with the Hemi. Marketing is obviously involved, but I think the engine looks great over all.
 
The only car my family has ever owned that blew an engine or tranny was a 1985 Dodge Lancer. The piston busted off the crankshaft at 80K miles. My grandma owned it for the first 70K before trading it in on a Spirit (ugh). My parents then got a new 1994 tercel which Im still driving every day with only about 78K miles but still running like new. That friggin dodge almost put us in the poor house. It looked great but it didnt run which is useless, no? This tercel is still saving me money every day. I flog it almost daily and it never flinches.
 
[QUOTEThe only car my family has ever owned that blew an engine or tranny was a 1985 Dodge Lancer. The piston busted off the crankshaft at 80K miles. My grandma owned it for the first 70K before trading it in on a Spirit (ugh). My parents then got a new 1994 tercel which Im still driving every day with only about 78K miles but still running like new. That dodge almost put us in the poor house. It looked great but it didnt run which is useless, no? This tercel is still saving me money every day. I flog it almost daily and it never flinches.


Amen Brother


changed word

[ November 20, 2004, 02:11 PM: Message edited by: 59 Vetteman ]
 
quote:

At 20K my 04 hemi developed a broken valve spring..The dealer says that the hemi's are having a problem with the springs. Dodge is on their third version of valve springs. They said the springs bulge out when compressed so they put a sleeves around them. The dealer replace alll of the springs even though only one broke.. They had the truck about two weeks becasue it took a while for them to figure out the problem and parts took about a week to get.

Then when I got it back on Wed there was a big puddle of oil on the driveway and a lot of oil under the truck. They towed it back to the shop and said the oil filter was loose and there was another leak but he did not know where. The tow truck driver pinched a break line and now they need to wait for a part to fix that...So now I'm back to a loaner until Monday or Tues.[:mad:]

Dodge is aware of this problem and there is a recall out on this..Not sure if I want to keep the truck now...I might take a look at the cummins or even the Nissan truck...

frown.gif
 
Let's see:

"Bad" American vehicles (purchased new):

1960 Dodge Polara/161k/sold 1973

1971 Chrysler Newport/138k/sold 2004

1976 Cadillac/187k/sold 1988

1987 Suburban/191k/sold 2004

"Good" foreign?

All sold within 4-years (since late 1970s')

Buy what you want, (disregard "resale" as that is a game for fools too soon parted from their money), fix it AS things break AND cut mileage/time requirements for maintenance by at least 10%. "Renew" it at some designated point.

I just bought an all-but-two-options missing 2001 Dodge Ram SLT Laramie for less than 1/3 the price of a new one. Problems? Only delayed maintenance. Easy to set right and make some upgrades. Low purchase price more than pays for this AND for low fuel mileage.

If you don't like "it" then get rid of it and drive what you like. Keep it (if climate right) 12-15 years or until electrical gremlins become numerous. Save the price of a new vehicle (plus dollars earned at interest or appreciation) by skipping the 6-7 year point and that vehicle about "pays" for itself.
 
Ok, its a new engine, completely new... not modified off some existing block. Its gonna have some little problems. I'd take a Hemi Ram over a GM or Ford. Ford and GM have lots of engine problems too.. but everyone bashes Chrysler regardless. It's like buying a Chrysler is the black death or something.

I do like Toyotas but after being in a Ram and a Tundra... I'd take the Ram. It feels more solid... I dunno why. Personally, I would never look at resale value as the main point of buying a car.... why worry about how much it sells for when your done with it rather than what it can do? My dad only got 1500 for our 89 ford aerostar with 202K miles but we owned it for 12 years... we took at least one road trip every year. It saved us lots of money in plane tickets for in theory, it pays for itself. Besides, you are gaining opportunity cost when owning a truck for so long that the value that you sell it at is pretty much unimportant. We got the most out of that Aerostar and that's all that mattered to my father.
 
my apologies, i have included the thread you wrote about, right now my truck is in the driveway, either waiting to fix the second spring or replace the heads with re manufactured ones with all the new updated springs and parts....Thanks for your reply... dodgeman
 
Originally Posted By: buster
We know it has power, but I'm weary of buying a Dodge. If I do buy a Ram this fall, I'd like to know how reliable these engines are before doing so. Anyone know or have a lot of miles on one yet?
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Go get the Toyota with the [censored] warranty, no power, frame that will rust ouT, transmissions that will fall out, and camshafts that go flat.
 
Originally Posted By: XS650
Originally Posted By: USA1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1JcvP4D81CI


Other than an indirect test of which truck had the most weight over the drive wheels, that didn't show anything.


I think it showed a 4X4 DOdge dragging a 4X4 Tundra ala tug-of-war. Both trucks had their engines in the front and both trucks are 4WD. The Tundra got dragged almost immediately DUE TO LACK OF POWER, not weight over the drive wheels; please explain to us how you came up with that theory?
 
BTW the Ram has IRS, not to be found on any other pickup truck. Rides and handles like a car. Efficient and torquey diesel power to boot.
 
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