Post the history and repairs of your retired engine, or any running engine with over 200.000 miles on it. What are your OCI and types of oil used.
How long did your engine last?
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I've got a few 302's with north of 200,000 miles on them. OCI was roughly 10K-12K intervals on various grades of Mobil 1.
Toyota 3.0 V-6, 237,000 miles with zero engine work (not even head gasket...).
Oil: whatever is on sale.
OCI: Whenever I get to it, but usually every 5-6K miles or every year, whichever comes first...
1977 Olds 350 V-8, 208,000 when I sold it.
Oil: 10W40 whatever SC/SD/SF
OCI: 3,000 miles
1981 MB 240D 245,000 miles when I sold it.
Oil: whatever CC/CD I could get on sale.
OCI, whenever I got around to it, usually 3 - 4,000 miles.
Oil: whatever is on sale.
OCI: Whenever I get to it, but usually every 5-6K miles or every year, whichever comes first...
1977 Olds 350 V-8, 208,000 when I sold it.
Oil: 10W40 whatever SC/SD/SF
OCI: 3,000 miles
1981 MB 240D 245,000 miles when I sold it.
Oil: whatever CC/CD I could get on sale.
OCI, whenever I got around to it, usually 3 - 4,000 miles.
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Have 2 very old fleet vans still running daily.
One 04 Savana 3500 6.0 Gas with over 400k miles on it. Amazingly it doesn't smoke, leak, or use any oil. Another identical 06 has nearly 300k miles. It runs well but will use a half quart a week or so. Maintenance is whatever synthetic is on sale changed by the OLM. I recently Kreened both with near miraculous results.
They aren't all this good however! These are 9000+ pound vehicles operated in city traffic and used as stationary power sources in the cleaning biz. VERY tough duty!
One 04 Savana 3500 6.0 Gas with over 400k miles on it. Amazingly it doesn't smoke, leak, or use any oil. Another identical 06 has nearly 300k miles. It runs well but will use a half quart a week or so. Maintenance is whatever synthetic is on sale changed by the OLM. I recently Kreened both with near miraculous results.
They aren't all this good however! These are 9000+ pound vehicles operated in city traffic and used as stationary power sources in the cleaning biz. VERY tough duty!
Most of my vehicles have all had over 200,000 miles, its not a big deal. They all run fine, but I would like to freshen some of them up.
1989 Jeep Cherokee 4.0 I6, 240,000+ (sister totaled it)
1986 Nissan 300ZX 3.0 V6, 250,000 (I flipped it)
1994 GMC K1500 Suburban 5.7 V8, 260,000 (transmission is slipping)
1996 Isuzu Trooper 3.2 V6, 196,000 (I flipped it)
1989 Mustang LX convertable 2.3 I4, not sure if the odo has rolled 2x or 3x (I am doing front end work on it)
2003 Chevy Avalanche Z71 5.3 V8, 243,000 (current daily driver)
No engine repairs on any of them, I have used a variety of oil and oci's.
1989 Jeep Cherokee 4.0 I6, 240,000+ (sister totaled it)
1986 Nissan 300ZX 3.0 V6, 250,000 (I flipped it)
1994 GMC K1500 Suburban 5.7 V8, 260,000 (transmission is slipping)
1996 Isuzu Trooper 3.2 V6, 196,000 (I flipped it)
1989 Mustang LX convertable 2.3 I4, not sure if the odo has rolled 2x or 3x (I am doing front end work on it)
2003 Chevy Avalanche Z71 5.3 V8, 243,000 (current daily driver)
No engine repairs on any of them, I have used a variety of oil and oci's.
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Originally Posted By: AVB
...1986 Nissan 300ZX 3.0 V6, 250,000 (I flipped it)
...1996 Isuzu Trooper 3.2 V6, 196,000 (I flipped it)...
Hmmm, is there a trend here?
...1986 Nissan 300ZX 3.0 V6, 250,000 (I flipped it)
...1996 Isuzu Trooper 3.2 V6, 196,000 (I flipped it)...
Hmmm, is there a trend here?
JHZR2
Staff member
94 Toyota Previa, 240k, M1 in 10k mile OCIs. No work ever done. Still running.
A bunch of early 1980's MB diesels with 230+k miles, Delvac 1 or equivalent 5w-40, 6-7000 mile OCIs, no work. Rust or ruined by getting hit.
96 MB E300D: 250k miles, no work ever. 7500-10k mi OCIs on Delvac 1 and similar syn HDEOs.
A bunch of early 1980's MB diesels with 230+k miles, Delvac 1 or equivalent 5w-40, 6-7000 mile OCIs, no work. Rust or ruined by getting hit.
96 MB E300D: 250k miles, no work ever. 7500-10k mi OCIs on Delvac 1 and similar syn HDEOs.
Originally Posted By: AVB
1986 Nissan 300ZX 3.0 V6, 250,000 (I flipped it)
1996 Isuzu Trooper 3.2 V6, 196,000 (I flipped it)
I unintentionally tried to drive up a guy wire on a telephone pole. The Trooper I was trying to avoid being t-boned at 68mph.
I see you are from GA. Are you one of the Duke boys, Bo or Luke?
1986 Nissan 300ZX 3.0 V6, 250,000 (I flipped it)
1996 Isuzu Trooper 3.2 V6, 196,000 (I flipped it)
I unintentionally tried to drive up a guy wire on a telephone pole. The Trooper I was trying to avoid being t-boned at 68mph.
I see you are from GA. Are you one of the Duke boys, Bo or Luke?
Never had an engine fail with M1 oils. Nor have I ever had one even show signs of oil smoke, coked rings, increased oil use, sludge, etc all with 10K OCIs. Some engines had in excess of 300K. One with well over 200K and all emained very clean. As for major repairs. Had a 84 Tempo diesel with a head gasket, and a 90 Tempo with an oil pan re-seal.
Only car I ever owned with over 200k miles was 1996 nissan sentra with ga16de engine. Solid built 4cylinder engine with a timing chain, not timing belt.
I got the car with 213k miles and had it until it hit over 240k miles.
During my ownership I put whatever was cheapest, mainly quaker state oil specials with stp oil filter or I occasionally had it changed at mobil lube express. The cheapest car I ever owned in terms on maintenance. the only major maintenance work (not repair work) was replace the upper timing chain tensioner, which was worn our and engine ran much better afterwards.
It was great until the slushbox transmission began to slip after fluid change, and was related to the torque converter locking solenoid, which require dismantling of the transmission to get to... so I bought my accent and traded her in while she ran.
I got the car with 213k miles and had it until it hit over 240k miles.
During my ownership I put whatever was cheapest, mainly quaker state oil specials with stp oil filter or I occasionally had it changed at mobil lube express. The cheapest car I ever owned in terms on maintenance. the only major maintenance work (not repair work) was replace the upper timing chain tensioner, which was worn our and engine ran much better afterwards.
It was great until the slushbox transmission began to slip after fluid change, and was related to the torque converter locking solenoid, which require dismantling of the transmission to get to... so I bought my accent and traded her in while she ran.
1989 Honda Accord LXi - owned since new. Even after wrecking it the engine was a champ. 2.0L 12-valve, single cam. Had 355,000 miles on the original engine before I got rid of the car.
OCI - 10,000 miles using various synthetic 10w30 oils over the years. Had been using Rotella synthetic 5W-40 for the last few years to lessen oil loss through leaky valve stems, but the plugs stayed clean and the car blew no smoke. Oil consumption was about 1/2 quart every 2,000 miles or so, but the car seemed to use a bit of oil between changes from the day it was new. Fuel economy was as good as it ever was and the car passed emission (smog) testing without issue.
Never had to mess with the engine internals. Valve train and lower end was clean. This was truly a tough engine. I always drove it hard and, even with an automatic, I would hit 6,000 RPM's daily. Changed the timing belt and water pump every 90,000 miles. This engine (A20A3) has erroneously been classified as an interference engine in the Gates timing belt guide. The A20 Honda engine is non-interference.
OCI - 10,000 miles using various synthetic 10w30 oils over the years. Had been using Rotella synthetic 5W-40 for the last few years to lessen oil loss through leaky valve stems, but the plugs stayed clean and the car blew no smoke. Oil consumption was about 1/2 quart every 2,000 miles or so, but the car seemed to use a bit of oil between changes from the day it was new. Fuel economy was as good as it ever was and the car passed emission (smog) testing without issue.
Never had to mess with the engine internals. Valve train and lower end was clean. This was truly a tough engine. I always drove it hard and, even with an automatic, I would hit 6,000 RPM's daily. Changed the timing belt and water pump every 90,000 miles. This engine (A20A3) has erroneously been classified as an interference engine in the Gates timing belt guide. The A20 Honda engine is non-interference.
1985 [5.0] Crown Vic 220K miles..Motorcraft 5w30..Dealer serviced every 3K miles.
1988 [5.O] Town Car 300K miles..Motorcraft 5w30..Dealer serviced every 3K miles
1999 [4.6] Grand Marquis 210K miles..Motorcraft 5w30 then after 2001 5W20 Motorcraft Synthetic Blend..Dealer serviced every 5K miles.
I never used HM oil in any of those cars.
All cars were running awesome when I sold them and everything worked perfectly.
1988 [5.O] Town Car 300K miles..Motorcraft 5w30..Dealer serviced every 3K miles
1999 [4.6] Grand Marquis 210K miles..Motorcraft 5w30 then after 2001 5W20 Motorcraft Synthetic Blend..Dealer serviced every 5K miles.
I never used HM oil in any of those cars.
All cars were running awesome when I sold them and everything worked perfectly.
My 94 Z28 LT1 had 337,000 miles on it when I pulled it from the car for a new motor. Still runs great on the shop floor (lol), dyno'd 227 rwhp. All on Valvoline 10w30 every 4-5k.
1994 Ford Thunderbird 4.6L ~350K miles My dad's car, not mine. He was the 2nd owner.
I've known him to usually use Fram orange cans and Pennzoil 10w40, so I assume that's what he usually used in this car.
Transmission was more problematic, but not the engine. It had a shuddering issue a long time ago with the lockup TCC, so he bypassed that. More recently it started slipping at heavy throttle, so he just started being easier on it.
The engine does use some oil, I'm not sure when that started. It's at the point where the engine and trans could both probably use a rebuild but it still drives fine (as long as you don't floor it and slip the trans).
The problem with the car is it has a check engine light on which he hasn't been able to resolve. California emissions testing is ridiculously strict and won't pass a car if that light is on, regardless of the tailpipe emissions (which have always been very clean). I think he got sick of fighting the CE light and gas prices were also an issue. He's been driving a small 4cyl car and I think the TBird is probably a goner.
I've known him to usually use Fram orange cans and Pennzoil 10w40, so I assume that's what he usually used in this car.
Transmission was more problematic, but not the engine. It had a shuddering issue a long time ago with the lockup TCC, so he bypassed that. More recently it started slipping at heavy throttle, so he just started being easier on it.
The engine does use some oil, I'm not sure when that started. It's at the point where the engine and trans could both probably use a rebuild but it still drives fine (as long as you don't floor it and slip the trans).
The problem with the car is it has a check engine light on which he hasn't been able to resolve. California emissions testing is ridiculously strict and won't pass a car if that light is on, regardless of the tailpipe emissions (which have always been very clean). I think he got sick of fighting the CE light and gas prices were also an issue. He's been driving a small 4cyl car and I think the TBird is probably a goner.
1998 Tahoe, bought used at 131k, no engine work, nor transmission. Used PYB for 10k-15k OCI, back when I knew nothing of oil. For the last 50k I've been doing 4k-6k OCI. 30k with dino, and about 20k miles ago I switched to synthetic. I plan on having this engine last at least 600k.
My friend has had multiple cars go over 500k miles. One of them (1980 honda civic) currently has 820k, with the original engine. He said he changed the oil every 3k-3.5k with a synthetic blend and let the car run at least 2 minutes before moving.
I also meet someone a few days ago with over 400k on a late model GMC Yukon. He used synthetic oil.
My friend has had multiple cars go over 500k miles. One of them (1980 honda civic) currently has 820k, with the original engine. He said he changed the oil every 3k-3.5k with a synthetic blend and let the car run at least 2 minutes before moving.
I also meet someone a few days ago with over 400k on a late model GMC Yukon. He used synthetic oil.
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Yea a guy on the civic 8th gen forum has over 825k miles on his.
http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/mechanica...-strong-74.html
http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/mechanica...-strong-74.html
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Wasn't there a new member with 650000 miles on a 3.8 mustang. Iirc he said he used conventional too.
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