Our family cars have been using 30 grade oils since the 50’s with no problems at all.
In France you have bigger things to worry about, that is , if you are really from France.
How bad is lugging ?
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Our family cars have been using 30 grade oils since the 50’s with no problems at all.
In France you have bigger things to worry about, that is , if you are really from France.
No one knows the answer to your question. However, we'll all jump at the chance to speculate with the insinuation that our speculation is superior to that other guy's speculation. I DO have secret, rare knowledge! I stayed at a Holiday Inn last night and watched Qanon on YouTube till 3am in the morning.
I'd say that using E85 on a daily basis is doing more harm to your engine than lugging it down ONE TIME!
I'd say that's better than watching squirrels surfing!
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You probably pissed off your clutch haha but your engine is fine. I used to inadvertently do this in my 300ZX sometimes,but it’d actually start off in 3rd just fine
Based on what ? I've seen many opened up engines that were ran only on E85 for hundreds of thousands of kilometers and the wear looks no different than on a similar engine ran on gasoline. The only real risk seems to be running lean. Far less carbon deposits with E85 also. This fuel seems to always be controversial when i mention it.I'd say that using E85 on a daily basis is doing more harm to your engine than lugging it down ONE TIME!
I'd say that's better than watching squirrels surfing!
What is happening out there?
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Maybe it depends on the age of the vehicle? I know older cars don't like ethanol at all because the alcohol content eats away at certain parts.
Most new cars that aren't "flex fuel" only allow for "up to" 10% ethanol content, if I'm not mistaken. At least it's what I've read in most owner's manuals.
A higher viscosity is going to give more protection in a lugging situation because MOFT is dependent on the viscosity, and the rotational speed of the bearing. Lugging means low engine RPM, which means less oil viscosity reduction from sheering speed, but lower RPM also means less MOFT hydrodynamic wedge due to the spinning speed of the bearing. Overall, I'd say lugging is causing less MOFT and more chance to have metal-to-metal contact and wear in the journal bearings. Avoid lugging is the best way to operate.
All newer cars can tolerate up to 15% EtOH without being a flex fuel vehicle. And yes, older ones (like most of mine) can only use E10. I haven't seen a bit of trouble using E10 even in my old BMW however, we live in an EPA nonattainment area and we cannot purchase E0 even at the marina.
Rhetorical or not - can't tell.
The trucks are geared so they can get a total of 80000+ pounds moving , even up a hill. An unloaded semi weighs less than 20K pounds. No point in shifting through all the gears. If it will take off in 4th or 5th gear without riding the clutch, might as well.
Lets think about what lugging is.
When an engine is running the rotational speed is constantly speeding up at every firing impulse and slowing down until the next one. The amount it slows down will depend on RPM, load and flywheel mass. This speed variation is true at any revs but only noticeable at very low revs and high load. If the engine slows down too much between firing impulses you can imagine it shock loads the crankshaft and causes vibration. The other aspect of lugging is that the hydrodynamic forces producing the oil film in the bearings will be lower at low RPM, although with the advent of forced induction engines producing peak torque at 1500 RPM I would imagine the manufacturers have allowed for this in bearing design.
But how long is a Ford ecoboost going to be at 1500RPM making full boost? I imagine even if you're sitting still, it's going to be able to stall the torque converter above that. And if you're moving it will shift down.
I have wondered how that played out in a lot of Nissans over the years. For a while, their CVTs were programmed to race to idle. And I've been in a few that tried way too hard to accelerate the car at 1200 RPM causing the whole car to vibrate terribly. I can't imagine something like that would be good for the engine.
A lot of small forced induction engines with peak torque at low revs, will have a manual gearbox but they can still accelerate from low revs smoothly. You could never have done this in 4 cylinder engines of the 70's and 80's. I assume the way modern cars avoid lugging vibration is by having a dual mass flywheel or in the case of a conventional auto, a torque converter.
If I run Economy mode in my Van it starts out in first but have felt like it hits fourth at 15 mph bucking like a standard that you started in second. Give a little gas then downshifting to second with RPM going immediately to 5 grand then 1100 rpms. I guess they figure lugging isn't bad. Now in normal mode light touch keeping rpm up. I would rather run 35 mph at 1500 rpm than 35 at 1000 rpm. I wonder if this could be what is tearing up turbo engines as well as torque converter.
2018 Grand Caravan
18200
2018 Grand Caravan
18200
Just lugged my engine bad, i had my music on and did not realize i engaged 3th and not 1st at the green light, i put my foot down all the way and felt a unpleasant massage in my seat then understood. I know beginners do that all the time but this is the first time it happened to me in years of driving. Last oil change my car had 5W-30 instead of 5W-40 and i already felt bad because the weather is around 30°C and i picture an almost non existant film of watery stuff around the bearings. Is my engine dead ? Am i going to die too ?
Oh no.. not the lugging of the engine!
Nothing less than a complete teardown and re-build, possibly even an engine replacement will do. May as well replace the engine mounts while it is in there! Or, if you can find a low mileage used engine, see if you can hear it run before you buy, your engine is toast..
This is satire. You'll be fine but I have a feeling you will never use a 30 grade oil again, if you felt like you could feel the difference.
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I'd think that would happen from over-revving the engine.
I did not even felt it but i've never used anything that thin before even if my manual from the 90s allows anything from 5w30 to 20w50 in my temp range. I am running it just to see how the engine behaves with it. By the way, this a 229.5 oil, 3.5 HTHS. What i notice so far is that the engine sounds quieter when cold, less rattle, maybe a very slight increase in gas mileage but i think this is lost in the noise between varying trips, fuel, AC on/off, weather... It is more of a psychological irrationnal thing of "thicker is better". I will see how oil consumption evolves but i will likely switch back to 5w40.
I had a reprogram (dealer) my 09 Maxima CVT that raised the 1200 rpm settling point to 1500 at full lockup. It definitely helped the uphill and light acceleration vibration.
