Craig,
Click on this link and tell me if this is your carb.
http://www.zamacarb.com/prodlist.html#RB
Click on this link and tell me if this is your carb.
http://www.zamacarb.com/prodlist.html#RB
Help with poor running Echo SRM-210
- Thread starter Craig in Canada
- Start date
- Status
Craig for what its worth: Adding a small(10 percent by volume) amount of alcohol or extra 2 cycle oil (to make 16:1=less fuel) will have the effect of leaning it out . And of course as you know choking it slightly will richen it. If either one helps with power then its likely a mixture problem. If neither of these causes improvement then internal problems might be suspect. My gut tells me to suggest an Itallian tune up though (rings not seated?). Warm it up with a full string and let er rip wot 'till it clears up . If its a good engine the worst thing that will happen is the rings will be seated for sure and the carbon will be cleared. If the engine is not mechanicaly sound then you may not be bothered with this problem any more. This was the way my father handled such things and it usually worked! Your mileage may vary. Good luck Rickey.
Many don't realize that 2 strokes don't like to idle or run at half throttle a lot - it "gunks" things up. They run best at WOT under load (don't WOT a chainsaw a lot unless cutting wood).
Did anyone suggest using a good fuel cleaner like Sea Foam to see if it might clean out the "innards"?
Good luck.
Did anyone suggest using a good fuel cleaner like Sea Foam to see if it might clean out the "innards"?
Good luck.
GoldenRod: I'll take a very close look at my carb and report.
Rickey: I'm running 40:1 this year instead of 50:1. It hasn't made a major difference other than a wetter exhaust and more smell. Choking makes things worse, not better.
doitmyself: I see lots of homeowners and lawn pros in my area one-pull start and it idles beautifully without all the crap I have to deal with. I haven't seen anyone else with an Echo SRM, however.
When I used it on the weekend I installed a new plug. It started about the same - lots of missing and four stroking with no throttle response. It's possible that it warmed a little quicker and started responding better. I made a point to "work it" more and get it hotter this time. When even partially warmed up, it runs great at 50%+ throttle. It's a beast, as a matter of fact. At 50% and below I can start hearing four stroking, and no matter how hot it is it never idles right.
Without other Echos to compare to, I don't know if the trimmer needs fixing, or just my expectations of the mighty Echo.
I'm interested in the alternate carb option, and might explore it further. For that matter, I might shoot some video of a typical start/run scenario and make it available to be streamed.
Craig.
Rickey: I'm running 40:1 this year instead of 50:1. It hasn't made a major difference other than a wetter exhaust and more smell. Choking makes things worse, not better.
doitmyself: I see lots of homeowners and lawn pros in my area one-pull start and it idles beautifully without all the crap I have to deal with. I haven't seen anyone else with an Echo SRM, however.
When I used it on the weekend I installed a new plug. It started about the same - lots of missing and four stroking with no throttle response. It's possible that it warmed a little quicker and started responding better. I made a point to "work it" more and get it hotter this time. When even partially warmed up, it runs great at 50%+ throttle. It's a beast, as a matter of fact. At 50% and below I can start hearing four stroking, and no matter how hot it is it never idles right.
Without other Echos to compare to, I don't know if the trimmer needs fixing, or just my expectations of the mighty Echo.
I'm interested in the alternate carb option, and might explore it further. For that matter, I might shoot some video of a typical start/run scenario and make it available to be streamed.
Craig.
I don't know if I missed it in the thread, but have you checked your fuel lines on the unit. It is possible that you may have a pinhole leak in one of them that is causing your unit it suck air when the engine is demanding more fuel at higher revs. I only say this because our new Echo blower has had to be serviced twice for this problem (factory recall). Just something to check if you haven't already.
When the recall came out last year I checked and my unit is not affected by it.
I do generally end up with oil mixture "all over" various parts of the engine when I leave it between uses so it's coming from somewhere, I just don't know where. The last time I hung it up engine down it looked like some was coming from the pull start, this would mean a possible main bearing leak, no?
I'm curious why you're asking, because I don't have a high RPM problem, I have a low RPM and cold start problem. Are you saying that at high RPM it's leaned out a bit and running correctly "by accident" or did you mean something else?
When it's warmed up it runs WOT like a champ. Unfortunately it runs less than ideal at anything less than WOT.
Craig.
With the blower it would bog down (fuel starvation) when you pressed down on the throttle. In addition it was a bear to start due to a crack in the gasket and a leak along one of the three fuel lines. Your problem sounds a little different though now that I think about it. Just for kicks, the kit was only about six bucks (USD) so it couldn't hurt to give it a try.
Craig, thanks for all the details....
One thing learned, if one is lucky to still
have the Echo with adjustable jets, don't
throw it away when it wears out....
SALVAGE that nice carb !
One thing learned, if one is lucky to still
have the Echo with adjustable jets, don't
throw it away when it wears out....
SALVAGE that nice carb !
Thought I would post this link to my Echo mix problems since I DID find the high speed mixture screw on the "non-adjustable" carbs.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=14;t=000815
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=14;t=000815
Hello all:
I've uncovered the hidden mix screw and now need som e help tuning.
To refresh:
Echo SRM-210
Season fresh 91-octane fuel w/ FP60 (Sta-bil in past years)
Echo syn oil at 40:1 (50:1 in past years)
New spark plug, clean air filter
Location: near Toronto (not high altitude)
I had a REALLY hard time getting it to run at all this time. It's been weeks since I had to use the trimmer last and it would seem that there may have been significant fuel evaporation leaving mostly oil behind. Plenty of smoke and barely running. Put in fresh mix and it ran OK.
When partially warmed up I began to play with the mixture screw setting. As a reference, let's say I found it at 12:00.
At 12:00 it tends to sputter and occasionally four stroke when idling - twitching and bucking around. When cold, opening the throttle leads to intake noise and no extra revs. When warm it has pep, power, good throttle response, but still bucks in and out of four stroke when idling and running at part throttle. (ie. rrrrrrrr-bbbbbb-rrrr-bbb-r-b-rrrrr-bbb-rrr)
At 9:00 it four strokes continually at idle, good throttle response and power off of idle. This confirms to me that CCW is richer. I think it even smokes a little here.
At 3:00 it almost stops four stroking at idle but needs the idle screw increased to raise revs. It will maintain idle at lower RPM than at 12:00. Throttle response is poor, sometimes matching the cold behaviour of just making more noise and not revving up. If you get it going power is good. The idle sounds more like "other people and pros" trimmers I hear that just kind of hum evenly at idle. Anything further than 3:00-4:00 and it can stall out. This confirms to me that CW is lean.
At 11:00 the idle speed noticeably raised and I had to loosen the screw to keep the clutch from dragging. Throttle response was good, but it four stroked more. Turn CCW further from 11:00 and the idle lowered again. 11:00 seemed to be result in the fastest idle.
At 2:00 I got a very low and even idle, but it sounded lean. Sometimes throttle response was good, sometimes it was strangled. I didn't like to run too long here because I'm not really watching the temperature. I wasn't running it really hard but I still don't want to cause damage.
When tuning R/C nitromethane engines we had at least idle, low and high needles. Unlike airplanes and chainsaws, throttle response was very important in a land-vehicle hence the addition of the low needle. You would start from factory settings and then do WOT runs checking that the temp was 220F or lower (newer engines can run hotter) and you could still see a smoke trail (newer fuels have more synthetics and less castor oil so this may not be standard procedure now). Usually "best running" was too hot and you had to richen it up to keep the temp under control with no fans and the body covering on. The low needle was then used to adjust throttle response, how badly the carb loaded up while idling and operating temp at part throttle. That's my main two stroke tuning experience
I'm confused by the fact that the only steady idle I get is where it appears to be too lean. Is there a real danger of running too hot on a pro tool like this at 40:1 with some sort of fan pushing air through the fins? What temps should I be shooting for? (I have an IR thermometer now)
What about the raise in idle at 11:00? The four stroking at factory position tells me 'too rich', but the poor throttle response when cold says 'too lean'. How can it be both? Do I peak the idle and leave it at that?
Open to suggestions, and thanks again to those who have provided input.
Craig.
I've uncovered the hidden mix screw and now need som e help tuning.
To refresh:
Echo SRM-210
Season fresh 91-octane fuel w/ FP60 (Sta-bil in past years)
Echo syn oil at 40:1 (50:1 in past years)
New spark plug, clean air filter
Location: near Toronto (not high altitude)
I had a REALLY hard time getting it to run at all this time. It's been weeks since I had to use the trimmer last and it would seem that there may have been significant fuel evaporation leaving mostly oil behind. Plenty of smoke and barely running. Put in fresh mix and it ran OK.
When partially warmed up I began to play with the mixture screw setting. As a reference, let's say I found it at 12:00.
At 12:00 it tends to sputter and occasionally four stroke when idling - twitching and bucking around. When cold, opening the throttle leads to intake noise and no extra revs. When warm it has pep, power, good throttle response, but still bucks in and out of four stroke when idling and running at part throttle. (ie. rrrrrrrr-bbbbbb-rrrr-bbb-r-b-rrrrr-bbb-rrr)
At 9:00 it four strokes continually at idle, good throttle response and power off of idle. This confirms to me that CCW is richer. I think it even smokes a little here.
At 3:00 it almost stops four stroking at idle but needs the idle screw increased to raise revs. It will maintain idle at lower RPM than at 12:00. Throttle response is poor, sometimes matching the cold behaviour of just making more noise and not revving up. If you get it going power is good. The idle sounds more like "other people and pros" trimmers I hear that just kind of hum evenly at idle. Anything further than 3:00-4:00 and it can stall out. This confirms to me that CW is lean.
At 11:00 the idle speed noticeably raised and I had to loosen the screw to keep the clutch from dragging. Throttle response was good, but it four stroked more. Turn CCW further from 11:00 and the idle lowered again. 11:00 seemed to be result in the fastest idle.
At 2:00 I got a very low and even idle, but it sounded lean. Sometimes throttle response was good, sometimes it was strangled. I didn't like to run too long here because I'm not really watching the temperature. I wasn't running it really hard but I still don't want to cause damage.
When tuning R/C nitromethane engines we had at least idle, low and high needles. Unlike airplanes and chainsaws, throttle response was very important in a land-vehicle hence the addition of the low needle. You would start from factory settings and then do WOT runs checking that the temp was 220F or lower (newer engines can run hotter) and you could still see a smoke trail (newer fuels have more synthetics and less castor oil so this may not be standard procedure now). Usually "best running" was too hot and you had to richen it up to keep the temp under control with no fans and the body covering on. The low needle was then used to adjust throttle response, how badly the carb loaded up while idling and operating temp at part throttle. That's my main two stroke tuning experience
I'm confused by the fact that the only steady idle I get is where it appears to be too lean. Is there a real danger of running too hot on a pro tool like this at 40:1 with some sort of fan pushing air through the fins? What temps should I be shooting for? (I have an IR thermometer now)
What about the raise in idle at 11:00? The four stroking at factory position tells me 'too rich', but the poor throttle response when cold says 'too lean'. How can it be both? Do I peak the idle and leave it at that?
Open to suggestions, and thanks again to those who have provided input.
Craig.
The forum was rebuilt just after I posted this. I could still use some suggestions here....
bump
Craig.
bump
Craig.
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